Steve's DC5S

[plAythiNG]

hehe nice, did u end up calling Hannys?

[stevan]

hehe nice, did u end up calling Hannys?

Nah not worth the hassle, just have to keep an eye on the level from now on to see if it's burning up, exhaust fumes smelt a bit sweet but no white smoke.

The CITR apparel is very comfy and nicely fitted COLOUR CODED T-SHIRTS!!

[maracer]

Kpro for a Type S.......
You will need this if you don't already have? 2001 - 2004 year, 02 sensor.

Got mine from here,
http://www.densoproducts.com/resultsApp.asp

Super Class AIR/FUEL SENSOR 234-9005 234-9005 Front; Sale: $129.32

Shipping to Australia was $60 bucks WTF rip-off but split the bill with brother inlaw who ordered a sensor too & got some spark plug aswel while i was at it.

[felixR]

Hey nice colours!!

[ChargeR]

Nice clothing guy, is the white one long sleeve for track days? How long had it been since the oil had been changed in your car when you discovered the oil was low? The DC5 manual does state that anything up to 1L/1000km of oil consumption can be considered normal, and my experience suggests that this is the case as well. My car has had variable oil consumption ever since it was new and sometimes uses quite a lot. Probably best to check the operation of your PCV valve, but otherwise I wouldn't worry.

[Flippit]

The DC5 manual does state that anything up to 1L/1000km

HOLY KRAP!!

[Timmy_B]

hey Tom, white shirt is mine hehehe.

[stevan]

Kpro for a Type S.......
You will need this if you don't already have? 2001 - 2004 year, 02 sensor.

Got mine from here,
http://www.densoproducts.com/resultsApp.asp

Super Class AIR/FUEL SENSOR 234-9005 234-9005 Front; Sale: $129.32

Shipping to Australia was $60 bucks WTF rip-off but split the bill with brother inlaw who ordered a sensor too & got some spark plug aswel while i was at it.

The package i am getting is all inclusive, 02-04 ECU with denso primary sensor. Just read Kpro version 3 is coming out a week after i get mine lol..

Hey nice colours!!

The blue looks awesome! For those that want a "fitted" shirt get a medium or small, im 87kg and the medium fits me great

Nice clothing guy, is the white one long sleeve for track days? How long had it been since the oil had been changed in your car when you discovered the oil was low? The DC5 manual does state that anything up to 1L/1000km of oil consumption can be considered normal, and my experience suggests that this is the case as well. My car has had variable oil consumption ever since it was new and sometimes uses quite a lot. Probably best to check the operation of your PCV valve, but otherwise I wouldn't worry.

Thanks bud, ordered an extra white one for Timmy to get free shipping Hmm in hingsight i should have bought a long sleeve one too...

My car had only done 4500km since last service, i was just very shocked when i got an oil light as the last few times i changed the oil i didnt have anywhere near as much consumption (assuming there was enough initially). It was crappy OEM oil though.

[stevan]

Mini Update - Noltec Camber/Caster plates

Picked up my Noltec camber plates this morning from the post office, noticed a few things that hopefully someone on here could advice me about. They were supplied with the correct size reducers which was good news, the thing i am concerned about is the range of adjustment they actually have. Heres a few pictures to try and help me explain:

1. Camber plates arranged as they would be on the car, this is at FULL negative camber adjustment. Notice the gap in the blue section.



2. I drew a black line on the tops to show actual adjustment range, this picture shows full positive adjustment and the following shows full negative. Roughly 12mm adjustment and a far cry from the claimed 20mm from Noltec.






As you can see the reason that you can't get it the whole way is due to the gold plate weld fouling on the circular blue upper plate. I drew a red line where the welds were fouling the blue plate as shown below:



What i am wondering is were these welds meant to be trimmed to allow max adjustment and would it be detrimental if they were grinded flat to free up this adjustment?

I placed them on the car and at max and they would place the struts roughly where they are now with a little extra caster, nothing where i was expecting though. I am debating whether i should get the welds trimmed somehow, what do you guys think?

[ChargeR]

Are they welded in the same fashion on the underside? It could be okay to trim a little of the weld off but have you considered just notching the blue aluminium part for clearance? Easier and it won't rust after like it will if you remove the plating from the other bit.

[stevan]

Hey Tom thanks for the reply

The underside of the gold plate is free from welds, i think the bearing housing was inserted through the gold plate and welded on the top side. Good point regarding the rusting on the brass plate.

Hmm i did think about trimming the blue upper plate but was a little worried because it tapers quite thin where the trimming is required. I don't think that is a critical section anyway, its probably a lot easier to use a rotary bit to trim that part then getting the welds perfectly flat. By the looks of it i only need about 2mm trim to get me ~4mm extra adjustment. Pretty silly little design flaw, honestly Tom i think we could make a lot of money if we designed and sold our own camber plates because it seems no one is quite getting the idea

I might do that then, Install is going to be on Thursday so we will see how it goes! These plates have a great concept but i think the design and construction quality is a bit cruder then it deserved. They should do the job better then my pretty AST ones lol

[stevan]

Ok drew out the area to notch, now just have to find someone that has a dremel or something similar The area i marked maintains the minimum width of the flanged area =~15mm so it shouldn't cause any dramas.

[M@lew]

I think I had a similar issue with my camber tops not going to whole way due to the bolt being in the way. Not 100% really what was the issue though since Zack from Techsport told me last time I was in there. Just said if I want a tiny bit extra camber I could take it apart and grind a bit away, which may be the same issue here. (So not an uncommon problem?)

[stevan]

I think I had a similar issue with my camber tops not going to whole way due to the bolt being in the way. Not 100% really what was the issue though since Zack from Techsport told me last time I was in there. Just said if I want a tiny bit extra camber I could take it apart and grind a bit away, which may be the same issue here. (So not an uncommon problem?)

I would say it is fairly common with custom kits but its pretty ghetto grinding things It actually says in the Noltec instructions that if you want more camber to mark and grind away at the gold sliding plate, then again most noltec plates you can move the strut in x and y directions whereas for our cars its only along an angled slot. Guess they forgot to account for the welds.

I actually just finished notching my top plate, managed to get quite a bit more adjustment which is great, more notching means more caster hehe. I used a dremel until the attachment died then i just finished using a round file, end result was quite good...





I am almost certain that i can get at least 3 degrees of front camber with these plates judging by a mock up i did earlier. I think i will set the top mounts at 3 degrees, any further adjustment will be done using crash bolts.

As for caster, a normal DC5 has around 2 degrees i think off memory, with offset LCA bushings i have around 3.1, if i can get at least another degree using these plates i will be happy.

Thanks for the advice Tom and Matt, will be sure to return with hopefully positive results on Thursday

[andrew84tran]

Not too sure, but assuming you could shave the weld that is touching the plates, would the weld still touch the strut top opening preventing you from maxing it out all the way as well?