Steve's DC5S

[stevan]

not the bolt the actual thread in the chassis, stripped the bolt as well, don't think its coming out for a long time haha.

[plAythiNG]

Ahhh, that happened to me.. Was thinking bout redrilling cbf... Remember that night u went to mine for jdmst eomm.. I rushed changing seats n threaded the chassis too

[stevan]

Ahhh, that happened to me.. Was thinking bout redrilling cbf... Remember that night u went to mine for jdmst eomm.. I rushed changing seats n threaded the chassis too

yeh i remember, pretty annoying but at least the seat is sturdy. My alignment got thrown again today btw, looking into permanent solutions for it now as its getting a bit ridiculous.

[munkaii]

Those chassis bolts are arse when it comes to doing and undoing haha. What I do every time when the seat is out is make sure the thread is still good before putting the seat on as well.

The camber tops slipped again??

[stevan]

Yeh they slipped once again, seems to only happen when i am reversing and have the wheel turned almost full lock, must put more stress on the strut top causing it to move. Either way i shouldn't have to be worrying about these kind of things all the time, hoping the car doesn't self implode every time i drive it lol.

Makes me think of how poor camber plates are in terms of design anyway, why would you design a system based on friction alone when shear would offer such better alignment retention in an incremental adjustment system................gah too much interwebs trolling

P.S Isn't it a bit odd that i can get more then 3.5 degrees of camber easily with my camber plates alone and no bolts at all?

[Norm]

Maybe time for some rigid collar action. Also is the harness bar necessary? Would mean that the rear seats are useless then.

[stevan]

was actually considering rigid collars, that would leave camber tops as the only point of "failure" in the alignment system as i don't use crash bolts.

Not sure about your SPG Norm but my shoulders are a fair bit higher then the shoulder harness holes in the seat so if i mount it to the seat at a 45 degree angle down it will put a lot of compressive force on my back especially if i get in an impact. With the harness bars it will be at around 10-15 degrees and give enough vertical slack to relieve potential spinal damage if my body is forced up for whatever reason.

[p33r]

Hey stevan, since we were on the topic of your wheels earlier, are you happy with going 17x9+35 or would you change to something else if you could? Are you saying you still rubbed even after rolling guards n camber?

How is 17x9+22 any different for fitment and how come you didnt run that or a staggered setup?

Also why 235/40 rather than 245 and again are you happy with that?
Cheers mate

[andrew84tran]

Yeh that does seem odd. But odd in a good way? You can't possibly complain. My alignment dude who I trust, claims I can't run 3.5 front camber with just the plates even with shortened tie rod arms. need camber bolts which I am using now, but seem reliable as they have not slipped even under a hard track day with semi's. I use ohlins btw.

Yeh they slipped once again, seems to only happen when i am reversing and have the wheel turned almost full lock, must put more stress on the strut top causing it to move. Either way i shouldn't have to be worrying about these kind of things all the time, hoping the car doesn't self implode every time i drive it lol.

Makes me think of how poor camber plates are in terms of design anyway, why would you design a system based on friction alone when shear would offer such better alignment retention in an incremental adjustment system................gah too much interwebs trolling

P.S Isn't it a bit odd that i can get more then 3.5 degrees of camber easily with my camber plates alone and no bolts at all?

[stevan]

Hey stevan, since we were on the topic of your wheels earlier, are you happy with going 17x9+35 or would you change to something else if you could? Are you saying you still rubbed even after rolling guards n camber?

How is 17x9+22 any different for fitment and how come you didnt run that or a staggered setup?

Also why 235/40 rather than 245 and again are you happy with that?
Cheers mate

hey mate, no rubbing here whatsoever I did have an instance when i was pretty slammed when the rear wheel hit the trailing arm but i have since raised the car and increased camber and no further issues have occurred.

Like i mentioned ideally i would want +22 at the front so i can have more room between the inner wheel and the shock strut so i can max out 2 crash bolts and angle the hub before i adjust from the top and increase the steering axis inclination (SAI). This and it would look more flush with the camber i have atm

For Honda Nats i will be using a 245 front tyre and a 235 rear to help rotation. I simply bought 235 all around for rotational purposes as i have limited funds as i am still at uni. 245 is too big for the rear anyway.

Yeh that does seem odd. But odd in a good way? You can't possibly complain. My alignment dude who I trust, claims I can't run 3.5 front camber with just the plates even with shortened tie rod arms. need camber bolts which I am using now, but seem reliable as they have not slipped even under a hard track day with semi's. I use ohlins btw.

Yeh its odd but in a good way, i had 3.6 degrees of camber and 3 degrees of caster on the hoist the other day and i have no camber bolts at all and a raised car, much more camber then the regular camber plates.

i think i will have to drop the struts and put bolts on the outside most holes to spread the stress as well as possible and loctite it and hope it holds, otherwise a 5th alignment and will have to drop the struts again. Might just bite the bullet and take it to Proconcept and get them to do rigid collars as well.

Camber bolts are generally best when you max them out so there is no room to slip

[p33r]

hey mate, no rubbing here whatsoever I did have an instance when i was pretty slammed when the rear wheel hit the trailing arm but i have since raised the car and increased camber and no further issues have occurred.

Like i mentioned ideally i would want +22 at the front so i can have more room between the inner wheel and the shock strut so i can max out 2 crash bolts and angle the hub before i adjust from the top and increase the steering axis inclination (SAI). This and it would look more flush with the camber i have atm

For Honda Nats i will be using a 245 front tyre and a 235 rear to help rotation. I simply bought 235 all around for rotational purposes as i have limited funds as i am still at uni. 245 is too big for the rear anyway.

Uni builds are tough man but you've done well for yourself with your budget mate

So if you had to do it again would you go 17x9+22 F and 17x9+35 R with 235/40 all round (i also need to be able to rotate tyres as a fellow povo)? How much camber would you recommend for this setup and i just need rear rolled correct?

Also why is 245 too big for the rear? Ive seen people run 245 all round and they dont seem to have issues.
Appreciate the help

[stevan]

Uni builds are tough man but you've done well for yourself with your budget mate

So if you had to do it again would you go 17x9+22 F and 17x9+35 R with 235/40 all round (i also need to be able to rotate tyres as a fellow povo)? How much camber would you recommend for this setup and i just need rear rolled correct?

Also why is 245 too big for the rear? Ive seen people run 245 all round and they dont seem to have issues.
Appreciate the help

Thanks dude i'm doing my best haha.

Yes +22 front and +35 rear would be ideal, trying to convince a fellow member on here who shall remain unnamed to buy a set for sale that are +22 and trading me a pair

Depending on how low you are i would recommend ~2.5 front and 1.5 rear (+35 all around) for a fast road alignment with rolled rear guards for insurance. The front will rub on the fenderliner if you are low so i just cut out a strip right next to the fender and it doesn't touch at all now.

For our cars you don't really need more then a 225/235 in the back to get good rotation, you want bigger tyres up front to allow the back to break loose, 245 all around would be a bit overkill. 255 front and 225/235 rear would be a nice track tyre combination . If you look at japanese tuner spec dc5's you will see that they all pretty much use 225 on the back and 245/255 on the front, non of them are silly enough to use X9 wheels though

I will be testing out 245/40 front and 235/45 rear for nationals which should get me turning a little better then what i have currently.

[p33r]

Great info! Thx heaps

Looks like i'll probably be going +22f and +35r with 235 all round for rotational purposes. Sound good? Not tracking it yet so shouldnt really bother me.

Now to save up for the wheels, camber kits and tyres Living the hobo life. Honestly by the time im done with everything i think it will just be a nhbp version of your car. Hahaha

[stevan]

No problems mate, yeh seems they are heading in roughly the same direction Having +22 and +35 rims wont allow you to rotate the tyres though unless you get them mounted on the opposite rims which would be a pita....

[Timmy_B]

Hey Stev.

Thanks for the pizza on saturday hope you like your little gift