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Which Intake Manifold for K series!

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    #46
    http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread...27#post1035227

    post number 49

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      #47
      for me. i had the spoon 70mm throttle body and it was perfect fitment with no modification to the throttle body or the karcept adapter.
      '03 Integra DC5 Type R
      Naturally Aspirated, K20A i-Vtec

      Wakefield Park: 1:13.047 w/ street tyres
      Eastern Creek Int'l Raceway: 1:57.969 w/ street tyres
      Power: 155Kw with Mugen N1 ECU

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        #48
        Originally posted by plAythiNG View Post
        Yeah the RRC is the best intake manifold, however apparantly it costs twice as much as the RBC, also the RRC needs a IACV port to be created, so its not really a simple bolt-on..
        It is actually quite easy & there is most certainly a benefit using the RRC over the RBC.
        If you’re starting from scratch, you’d be silly use the RBC over the RRC.
        Changing from RBC to RRC is a different story.
        But if you’re about to buy one, you’d be mad to settle for 2nd best, particularly with a DC5 Type S where the OEM manifold is already the equivalent of the PRC. It’s a PRB-02 rather than the Type R PRB-01.
        I’ve tested the AUDM DC5 Type S back to back with PRC & original PRB-02 & there is no change what-so-ever.
        You need to know that the RBC will only offer the Type S a very minimal gain in the top end, that’s it.
        No offence to anyone else, but the advice you’ve been given so far is from guys with DC5 R’s with PRB manifolds to start with. You change to a PRC & nothing happens, where as for them there is a gain. The same sort of gain you’d see with the RBC.
        The type of gains over where you are now that they’re talking about, you’ll only get with an RRC because you’re starting from a higher datum.
        Anyway, think about it.
        Originally posted by plAythiNG View Post
        did u use the Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket?
        Save your money, these things are just marketing B/S sold purely to make money.
        They do nothing for performance. You’ll go just as fast if you just take another sugar pill.
        Originally posted by plAythiNG View Post
        ok, so what ifi dont put that cover on... Can i still use the existing bonnet dampers?
        The std bonnet catch can be refitted with RBC or RRC once the manifold is installed.
        You’ll need to undo the front mount & jack the engine, pop it in & you away.
        If this is not fitted & you retain std engine mounts, you risk having the bonnet stay drop below the manifold under acceleration which will give you the shits next time you want to lift the hood.
        Originally posted by 03DC5R View Post
        to be honest...get i/h/e first...then get the rbc and kpro installed and tuned at the same time....there's no point in getting the rbc without an ecu....
        Exactly… But I’d advise a better manifold for a Type S start point

        Originally posted by Tiu View Post
        I'm using Gruppe M Yes it fits! need to jiggle it around abit but it works. So i guess you won't need to worry about anything since i've gone through it and i bought it from there as well. No additional part needed.
        The OEM intake arm generally cracks & fails after a short time.
        You're better off with an alloy pipe & some silicone hoses - looks better too.

        Originally posted by Tiu View Post
        I went to visit Spoon workshop when i was in Japan for x'mas last year which then i got myself Spoon, 70mm Throttle Body. You can defiantly feel the gain in the top end since i installed this after RBC.
        Spoon throttle is like TODA, the entry is 70mm tapering to a 65mm butterfly.
        The throttle to use us a modified CL7 throttle, regardless of manufacturer.
        Point of note, our testing has shown the RBC does not respond to larger throttles than 65mm
        The RRC on the otherhand has shown measurable gains with larger throttles fitted but this seesm to only benifit on larger engines.
        K24+ where 70~72mm seems to be about right (other factors do come into it too)
        Another interesting thing we've found is on RBC's with the larger throttle, the intake length becomes critical & too short can result in huge losses in power due to lack of air speed.
        The RRC is less sensitive, but again intake length plays a big roll.
        Rule of thumb... Short intake like GruppeM, use a 65mm blade throttle, this will give good peak power & maintain low & mid range.
        If you've got an Injen, you can get away with the US 70mm+ throttles & see good gains, but less so on a RBC vs a RRC
        IMO, the 65mm blade still rules the roost for near std engines (I/H/E ECU + cams)
        Once you've got capacity & compresion, then look at something bigger.

        Hope that helps...
        Sorry about the long winded reply...
        Someone else's turn on the soapbox
        TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
        TODA Racing - TODA Power - FIGHTEX
        Official Australian Distributors
        0401869524
        Engine Building / Dyno tuning / Licenced Mechanical Workshop

        Email: toda@todaracing.com.au

        M-Factory - HALTECH - Hondata - EXEDY - WORK - Supertech - Crower

        Comment


          #49
          i thought i would have to pay money to get some info like that.
          thanks alot for sharing and the advice TODA AU!

          Comment


            #50
            where does the RSP manifold sit in all this, Adrian?
            I've swapped my RSP to RRC awhile ago with no info or testing.
            just absolute blind faith that "JDM is Good" hahah

            Comment


              #51
              Good informative post Adrian.

              What is the advantage of a TB inlet to be increased to ID 70mm when it will be restricted by a ID 65mm at the butterfly any ways?

              My guess is that it helps channel the air in some way, shape or form?

              Comment


                #52
                Originally posted by lukits01 View Post
                where does the RSP manifold sit in all this, Adrian?
                I've swapped my RSP to RRC awhile ago with no info or testing.
                just absolute blind faith that "JDM is Good" hahah
                The RSP is a bloogy good thing & it appears to be better than the RRC down low & about on par in the mid range.
                But we have seen top end gains going from RSP to RRC.
                That said, this is using large aftermarket throttles & not the std 64mm throttle in K-swaped Civic's etc.
                So, I have no real data for RSP vs RRC on an FN2R.
                I'd be interested to try, but as yet we havn't had any guinea pigs (hint, hint)
                So, in your case, rather than fact, I can only offer a recon...
                I don't think you would have felt your car went backwards going from RSP to RRC, but I'm not sure the gains would have been worth the effort.
                I guess I really need to just test 'em back to back on an FN2...

                any guinea pigs?
                TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
                TODA Racing - TODA Power - FIGHTEX
                Official Australian Distributors
                0401869524
                Engine Building / Dyno tuning / Licenced Mechanical Workshop

                Email: toda@todaracing.com.au

                M-Factory - HALTECH - Hondata - EXEDY - WORK - Supertech - Crower

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by TeMp View Post
                  Good informative post Adrian.

                  What is the advantage of a TB inlet to be increased to ID 70mm when it will be restricted by a ID 65mm at the butterfly any ways?

                  My guess is that it helps channel the air in some way, shape or form?
                  It seems to offer increased air speed whick K-series love.
                  TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
                  TODA Racing - TODA Power - FIGHTEX
                  Official Australian Distributors
                  0401869524
                  Engine Building / Dyno tuning / Licenced Mechanical Workshop

                  Email: toda@todaracing.com.au

                  M-Factory - HALTECH - Hondata - EXEDY - WORK - Supertech - Crower

                  Comment


                    #54
                    damn reading adrians post and ive made every mistake he mentioned
                    dc5s with rbc and 70mm TB and gruppe m (w/ cams/headers/ecu) hopefully he can sort it all out for me:P
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                      #55
                      so what is the real difference between spoon and diy tb bore?
                      or is there other components in spoon 70mm tb that isnt stock?

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