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Which Intake Manifold for K series!
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for me. i had the spoon 70mm throttle body and it was perfect fitment with no modification to the throttle body or the karcept adapter.'03 Integra DC5 Type R
Naturally Aspirated, K20A i-Vtec
Wakefield Park: 1:13.047 w/ street tyres
Eastern Creek Int'l Raceway: 1:57.969 w/ street tyres
Power: 155Kw with Mugen N1 ECU
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Originally posted by plAythiNG View PostYeah the RRC is the best intake manifold, however apparantly it costs twice as much as the RBC, also the RRC needs a IACV port to be created, so its not really a simple bolt-on..
If you’re starting from scratch, you’d be silly use the RBC over the RRC.
Changing from RBC to RRC is a different story.
But if you’re about to buy one, you’d be mad to settle for 2nd best, particularly with a DC5 Type S where the OEM manifold is already the equivalent of the PRC. It’s a PRB-02 rather than the Type R PRB-01.
I’ve tested the AUDM DC5 Type S back to back with PRC & original PRB-02 & there is no change what-so-ever.
You need to know that the RBC will only offer the Type S a very minimal gain in the top end, that’s it.
No offence to anyone else, but the advice you’ve been given so far is from guys with DC5 R’s with PRB manifolds to start with. You change to a PRC & nothing happens, where as for them there is a gain. The same sort of gain you’d see with the RBC.
The type of gains over where you are now that they’re talking about, you’ll only get with an RRC because you’re starting from a higher datum.
Anyway, think about it.
Originally posted by plAythiNG View Postdid u use the Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket?
They do nothing for performance. You’ll go just as fast if you just take another sugar pill.
Originally posted by plAythiNG View Postok, so what ifi dont put that cover on... Can i still use the existing bonnet dampers?
You’ll need to undo the front mount & jack the engine, pop it in & you away.
If this is not fitted & you retain std engine mounts, you risk having the bonnet stay drop below the manifold under acceleration which will give you the shits next time you want to lift the hood.
Originally posted by 03DC5R View Postto be honest...get i/h/e first...then get the rbc and kpro installed and tuned at the same time....there's no point in getting the rbc without an ecu....
Originally posted by Tiu View PostI'm using Gruppe M Yes it fits! need to jiggle it around abit but it works. So i guess you won't need to worry about anything since i've gone through it and i bought it from there as well. No additional part needed.
You're better off with an alloy pipe & some silicone hoses - looks better too.
Originally posted by Tiu View PostI went to visit Spoon workshop when i was in Japan for x'mas last year which then i got myself Spoon, 70mm Throttle Body. You can defiantly feel the gain in the top end since i installed this after RBC.
The throttle to use us a modified CL7 throttle, regardless of manufacturer.
Point of note, our testing has shown the RBC does not respond to larger throttles than 65mm
The RRC on the otherhand has shown measurable gains with larger throttles fitted but this seesm to only benifit on larger engines.
K24+ where 70~72mm seems to be about right (other factors do come into it too)
Another interesting thing we've found is on RBC's with the larger throttle, the intake length becomes critical & too short can result in huge losses in power due to lack of air speed.
The RRC is less sensitive, but again intake length plays a big roll.
Rule of thumb... Short intake like GruppeM, use a 65mm blade throttle, this will give good peak power & maintain low & mid range.
If you've got an Injen, you can get away with the US 70mm+ throttles & see good gains, but less so on a RBC vs a RRC
IMO, the 65mm blade still rules the roost for near std engines (I/H/E ECU + cams)
Once you've got capacity & compresion, then look at something bigger.
Hope that helps...
Sorry about the long winded reply...
Someone else's turn on the soapboxTODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - TODA Power - FIGHTEX
Official Australian Distributors
0401869524
Engine Building / Dyno tuning / Licenced Mechanical Workshop
Email: toda@todaracing.com.au
M-Factory - HALTECH - Hondata - EXEDY - WORK - Supertech - Crower
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Originally posted by lukits01 View Postwhere does the RSP manifold sit in all this, Adrian?
I've swapped my RSP to RRC awhile ago with no info or testing.
just absolute blind faith that "JDM is Good" hahah
But we have seen top end gains going from RSP to RRC.
That said, this is using large aftermarket throttles & not the std 64mm throttle in K-swaped Civic's etc.
So, I have no real data for RSP vs RRC on an FN2R.
I'd be interested to try, but as yet we havn't had any guinea pigs (hint, hint)
So, in your case, rather than fact, I can only offer a recon...
I don't think you would have felt your car went backwards going from RSP to RRC, but I'm not sure the gains would have been worth the effort.
I guess I really need to just test 'em back to back on an FN2...
any guinea pigs?TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - TODA Power - FIGHTEX
Official Australian Distributors
0401869524
Engine Building / Dyno tuning / Licenced Mechanical Workshop
Email: toda@todaracing.com.au
M-Factory - HALTECH - Hondata - EXEDY - WORK - Supertech - Crower
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Originally posted by TeMp View PostGood informative post Adrian.
What is the advantage of a TB inlet to be increased to ID 70mm when it will be restricted by a ID 65mm at the butterfly any ways?
My guess is that it helps channel the air in some way, shape or form?TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - TODA Power - FIGHTEX
Official Australian Distributors
0401869524
Engine Building / Dyno tuning / Licenced Mechanical Workshop
Email: toda@todaracing.com.au
M-Factory - HALTECH - Hondata - EXEDY - WORK - Supertech - Crower
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damn reading adrians post and ive made every mistake he mentioned
dc5s with rbc and 70mm TB and gruppe m (w/ cams/headers/ecu) hopefully he can sort it all out for me:PPrash Imaging (Facebook) - Please like!
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