The CR-X

[hello]

damn 6 microns. serious stuff yeah buddy!

[ChargeR]

damn 6 microns. serious stuff yeah buddy!

Yeah well oddly enough I read somewhere that injectors like about 10 micron filtration otherwise there may be issues, so I didn't think a 40 micron stainless element would do anything worthwhile and the paper elements won't last long with ethanol fuels. The element was cheap insurance for expensive injectors IMO and it can't hurt because I won't be pushing so near to the limits of the pump and injectors that a restrictive filter element will make a difference.

I sketched up a quick layout of my fuel system tonight, with the parts I will be using. We'll see if it comes together in the bay like this:



Also I have a broken DC5 clutch master cylinder thanks to Jason/butter that I will use to mock up a hydraulic clutch conversion. If it will fit under the dash..

[hello]

Should have fpr after rail man.

Lucky I use 10 microns, like you said 40 seems too loose.

[ChargeR]

Should have fpr after rail man.

Lucky I use 10 microns, like you said 40 seems too loose.

Yeah I am considering putting the FPR after the rail, everyone seems to recommend it but I can't find any sound reasoning why. If a DC5 has a regulator 2.5 metres away in the tank, I don't see why I can't have it 25cm away. Got any links on good reading on fuel system layout?

[hello]

its in the aeromotive manual i got with the filter.

I’m trying to plumb my stand-alone EFI regulator properly, where do I put the regulator, before or after the fuel rail(s), and what ports do I use?
Unlike a standard or “dead-head” carb regulator, which controls pressure between itself and the carburetor inlet, a bypass regulator creates and controls pressure between itself and the pump. Therefore, the correct EFI regulator location is after the fuel rail(s) whenever possible, promoting the required fuel pressure, flow volume and velocity through the fuel rail and to the injector inlet, at all times. Most Aeromotive EFI regulators have two inlet ports, one on each side, and one bypass port, on the bottom. Either inlet may be used with a single fuel rail engine, both inlets with a dual fuel rail. Any unused inlet ports must be blocked with the appropriate port plug. The ideal flow-path is: out of the fuel pump, into one end of the rail; out the other end of the rail, into the regulator side port(s); out the regulator bottom port, back to the tank at the top. Dual rail applications should employ a Y-block to split the supply line before entering the rails, then individual lines are run from the opposite end of each rail to each inlet port on the regulator.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/f...fi-regulators/

[ChargeR]

its in the aeromotive manual i got with the filter.


http://aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/f...fi-regulators/

Thanks, yeah I saw that in my travels too. The FAQ goes on to mention that if you only have a single port rail and really want to you can configure it the way I hope to, but just that it's not ideal without any rationale. I'll keep thinking about it before I put it together, but at this stage I think I'll stick with it as is.

[hello]

returnless rail looks sweet man. real neat.

[wpg81]

ChargeR it looks as you have the centre feed fuel rail? Centre fuel pressure in and end or ends to regulator and return to tank. The way u have your diagram will work but reg after the rail will have smaller fluctuation in pressure.

[ChargeR]

Merry CRXmas


With some time off work it was time to working on this car so I can have it running this decade. First on the agenda I test fitted the boss kit I got an age ago along with an old period correct Momo wheel I acquired from forum member tRipitaka. It looks a lot less beaten up in person. True to the promises of the guy at Checkrd Sports the boss kit does not quite fit (It's intended for an EG), I'll need to machine a bit off the end, the splined section is too deep.





After this I pulled the engine back out again for what is hopefully nearly the last time. As I'd mentioned earlier the motor was not quite sitting correctly in the engine bay, it was too high on the passenger side and too close to the driver's side chassis rail. After measuring up my ED9 CR-X I discovered that the OEM D series mount bracket on the ED9 sits about 20mm lower and 12mm closer to the passenger side.





To correct this I slotted the holes in the bracket that bolts to the top of the gearbox to allow the engine to move toward the passenger side and re-fitted the whole lot along with another ED9 subframe to replace the previous cracked one. Now the motor is situated as it should be, with decent clearance from the chassis and level rather than tilted to the drivers side.














After this I wanted to test fit the Karcepts alternator relocation kit to confirm it wouldn't present any issues. Here's the kit:





The kit looks nice and all the bits bolted up nicely, with a mix of new OEM Honda and aftermarket hardware. Here it is installed:





However there's been more than the odd isolated case of these kits failing and breaking other stuff in the process, so I'm going to modify both the brackets so I can safety wire on both the alternator and the tensioner. The kit also presented an issue that hadn't occured to me, the stock front suspension crossmember won't go back on as the alternator occupies part of the space where it used to sit as can be seen in the picture below. I have heard of people retaining the crossmember with a K24 but they must be using the EP3 pulley arrangement. So I need to make/buy a front traction bar to give some clearance from the alternator. That can wait though.





Lastly I removed the dash to allow me to do a few things:


- Remove the sound deadening and firewall mat
- Remove the pedal assembly so I can make some bracketry to attach the hydraulic master cylinder
- Remove the heater core so it can be fixed/serviced
- Remove the carpet without cutting it so I can remove the sound deadening material
- Remove the ignition barrel harness to repair it where some butcher had installed an immobiliser and alarm





That's all for this update, more to come.

[tinkerbell]

- Remove the ignition barrel harness to repair it where some butcher had installed an immobiliser and alarm

.

arrrhghhghg!!! barbarians

keep it coming

[felixR]

Alternator relocation kit is cool.

Nice work with fixing up the engine placement.

Can't wait for the next update.

[ChargeR]

arrrhghhghg!!! barbarians

keep it coming

Yeah! Definitely barbarians, of the the second hand cars that I have bought with aftermarket alarms or immobilisers 2 of them have failed and left me stuck on the side of the road. Not a fan.

Alternator relocation kit is cool.

Nice work with fixing up the engine placement.

Can't wait for the next update.

Thanks boss, the alternator relocation kit looks nice, hopefully it's reliable.

CR-Xmas part two

I returned to the shed the day following my previous post to pull some more junk out of the car, so here's another pretty boring update. I removed all the bits I mentioned in the previous post: Heater core, carpet, ignition barrel, fan and heater core. All set to remove the sound deadening once I pick up some dry ice.



The dash mat was surprisingly heavy



I also pulled out the booster and brake master cylinder, in preparation for painting the engine bay, and pulled the wiring harness back into the cabin.



Here's the pedal assembly:



Here's the space I have to fit the clutch master cylinder into and have it function.



Not a lot of room to play with, but it should be fairly straightforward to cram it in there even if I have to notch that bar that supports the steering column and cluster. I'll have to sacrifice my driver's side air vent functionality, but as it's not connected to anything at the moment that's okay.

More updates to follow, hopefully something interesting soon.

[felixR]

Still interesting to me!

The header almost looks like it's touching.

[rookie]

Nice progress maaaate. looking good!

[ChargeR]

Still interesting to me!

The header almost looks like it's touching.

Thanks! Sharp eyes. In that picture the header is indeed touching, it was only held on with the two top nuts which pulled it up into contact with the subframe and I think the subframe might need a bit more butchering too. Still more test fits on the horizon I think .

Nice progress maaaate. looking good!

Thanks fellow.

The New Year

The new year had arrived by this point, and it was time to use my new found welding "skill" to fix the driver's side mount bracket in the engine bay permanently. So I marked up where I wanted the mount to end up, and pulled the engine out one more time.



With the engine out I ground off the paint on the 5 spots that I was going to plug weld and cleaned up the underside of the mount. I also took this opportunity to spray some paint on some of the concealed areas on the underside of the chassis and the mount as a concession to rust protection. The car is rusty enough already. Mount welded in:



The welds look like trash, I don't think I did a good enough job of cleaning up the areas to be welded or my settings were a bit off, it will serve though and once painted no-one will know but you and I. With that out of the way it's time to do a final clean up of the engine bay, get it painted and remove the sound deadening in the cabin.

Things will probably slow down for the next month or two, my sponsors have nearly run out of money.