The CR-X

[ChargeR]

So having said that if I was to order any aftermarket braided clutch line I'm safe to order a 05-06 RSX Type S slave cylinder?

And just for confirmation the Civic Si part number you ordered was;

46920-S5A-G06

Link

Yep that's the Civic clutch master cylinder part number that I ordered. Unsure of fitment of that in a RHD DC5, but that's not a problem for me. I'll get back to you on the slave cylinder issue, it is possible that I didn't order the correct one hence why it's different to the local model. To make the slave cylinder I have work you'd need the entire line to be braided from the CMC to the slave, you couldn't use the hard line that sits on top of the gearbox as it doesn't match the inlet on the slave.

Engine out again and bits

Had a busy long weekend, went to see some bands, worked on some junky old DC2s, stripped some parts off an Accord Euro, and had a bit of time to spare to fuss about with the CR-X. First up I pulled the engine again, for the last time hopefully. I pulled out the front left brake lines, I think the last couple of brake lines and fuel lines can stay in there for paint, I'll just wrap them up. A couple of holes filled, a rub back and a wash down and I'll deliver the car into the hands of a panel shop, it's their problem then. I don't like paint and bodywork.



I got the engine on a stand, ready to fit up the K20A2 parts (oil pump, sump, baffle, cam gear). Removed the sump and two existing mounting studs. For those that haven't done it before, the alloy K20A2 sump has a thicker mounting flange compared to the pressed steel K24A3 item, so the studs will be too short. They'll be replaced with the longer K20A2 type bolts which are somewhere in my pile of OEM parts. I removed the balancer, see below, and then lost interest in doing any more as I haven't had my oil pump modified to fit over the main bearing cap in the K24A3 anyway. So I left it for another day.







On top of that some bits turned up on Friday. Firstly a set of ARP wheel studs, I need to get some new wheel bearings and hubs before I put these in. Essential item for the spacer's I'll need to get clearance between the knuckle and the 10" and 9" 6Uls. Then there is the Aeromotive in tank pump, I initially was going to get the Walbro equivalent, however the Aeromotive item flows a bit more and is recommended by the manufacturer for alcohol based fuel use.





Also in there was a K and N filter and a matching velocity stack. The filter is a little bigger than I pictured in my mind's eye, hopefully I can cram it in somewhere. Lastly is the in-line radiator filler and a hose barb fitting to go with it. I need to make an overflow tank, but I've got an idea for that.

[MYDC5R]

Very descriptive detail in this update Tom, i enjoyed this one.
Are you re-painting your engine bay the same colour or something 'funky'?
Which shop are you taking it too if you don't mind me ask?

[Oz Striker]

Re: The CR-X

Nice update Tom, no doubt this build will really snowball once you get the car back from the panel shop, looking forward to seeing it all piece together. Just out of curiosity, are you keeping the paint thickness down to save some weight?

[felixR]

All these parts coming in!

Nice update Tom.

[maracer]

when you talk about this project you make it sound so simple...... But fark, it pretty in depth to me

[ChargeR]

Very descriptive detail in this update Tom, i enjoyed this one.
Are you re-painting your engine bay the same colour or something 'funky'?
Which shop are you taking it too if you don't mind me ask?

Thanks mate, I try to give some details in my posts but up to now there hasn't been much to tell. Cutting, welding, test-fittng... I can say the engine bay won't be the same colour as the outside of the car, but nothing too exciting. I'll be taking the car to member whtdc2's panel shop U Panel in Ringwood.

Nice update Tom, no doubt this build will really snowball once you get the car back from the panel shop, looking forward to seeing it all piece together. Just out of curiosity, are you keeping the paint thickness down to save some weight?

Thanks mate. I'm hoping that I'll start to make some real progress once the car comes back, as at that stage it will be final assembly without having to remove and re-fit things. Paint thickness will be whatever the paint shop feels like . I imagine it only takes a litre or two to paint an engine bay at most so I'm only looking at a weight difference of 1kg at most.

All these parts coming in!

Nice update Tom.

Thanks Felix! You should see my lounge room, a quarter of it is taken up with the pile of CR-X parts, with some Integra bits in there too.

when you talk about this project you make it sound so simple...... But fark, it pretty in depth to me

Haha not true sir, when I talk about it I make it seem harder and more complicated than it really is.

[ChargeR]

Patching subframes

Today I set myself the task of getting the subframe out of the CR-X modified, patched up and ready for powdercoat. The subframe needs to be modified for exhaust manifold clearance, according to Stefan from ASP it's very difficult to get the 4 large tubes of his header past the subframe without a bit of trimming. Firstly I fitted a new flow meter to my argon cylinder, I wasn't too confident that the gauge on the regulator was accurate, and it only had increments of 5L/min in any case.



Here's what I had to work with. As it was there was adequate clearance to the exhaust manifold, but it was a little close in some areas and in any case I couldn't leave a gaping hole in the subframe. So I marked out the area I wanted to cut out.



Past the point of no return, metal cut out and cleaned up ready to put more metal back in. I didn't want to stuff this up because this is the third subframe I've had for the car and I don't feel like finding a fourth. The original SiR one does not suit the Hasport mount bracket, the subframe is a different shape and has differently placed holes for the B series mount, the second ED9 subframe I had was cracked.



I made myself a cardboard template, and then cut out a matching piece of steel out of some 1.2mm sheet that I found lying around the workshop. The subframe is a bit thicker than that but buying more steel was too much effort. Then followed much bending and trimming and shaping of the patch to get it to fit neatly into the hole.





Then I tacked it in, then welded all the way around the perimeter. I'd previously cut up a few bits of the steel sheet and fine tuned the settings on the TIG, I ended up using about 35-40A depending on the way the join was set up, with a 1.6mm tungsten and 1.6mm filler rod which was too large and made for very blobby wriggly beads. My lack of skill probably contributed too.





Here's the finished item, ready to be sandblasted and powdercoated in gloss black. The final image shows the shallow cutout that is the result of the days work which should be just enough room for the ASP header to get past. I'll need to use some different bolts for the mount and possibly modify the steering rack brackets. I've seen other people just weld the bracket to the subframe, but I didn't want to do that as it removes the little bit of wiggle room that helps get the motor mounts aligned, and on top of that CR-X subframes are very inclined to crack, welding a bit of 6mm plate to it will only make it worse.

[dc_]

holy crap this thread is awesome just killed a hour or so reading it, this thing is going to be sweeeet!

[MYDC5R]

The master of custom work!
Hope all this work pays off Tom!

[ChargeR]

holy crap this thread is awesome just killed a hour or so reading it, this thing is going to be sweeeet!

Thanks mate, glad you found it interesting. Updates should be flowing pretty quickly from now on.

The master of custom work!
Hope all this work pays off Tom!

Cheers! It better pay off, I'm not going to all this effort to have a car I don't like as much as the other ones .

[ChargeR]

Another one

Not much to report today, I have cleaned up the motor a bit more over the last week, I don't want it to look out of place in my newly painted engine bay. I then pulled a few bits and pieces off ready to fit the new cam gear, oil pump, sump and baffle. Here's the motor with all the timing stuff and oil pump removed, it's a bit grubby inside it could have probably done with more regular oil changes in it's previous life.



I also acquired a new garage mate for the SiR, I understand the best way to have running cars is to just keep acquiring the same type until eventually enough parts end up on the one car such that it moves under its own power.

I picked it up from a nice guy in Notting hill and towed it back. There were a few interesting moments on the journey, my lone ratchet strap broke so I resorted to the trusty scrap of nylon rope that I found in the tray of my ute. The sunroof panel of the car came adrift in transit too, quite spectacularly, I had to abandon it to an ungentle death by traffic. It was rusty anyway.



This isn't the first nor will it be the last time I'll have a CR-X following me so closely.



I didn't see this sticker on the hire trailer until I arrived, fortunately the trailer didn't travel back in time or explode when I unwittingly exceeded 100km/h on the eastern freeway.



Safely at our destination. This nameless car comes minus engine and gearbox and will be giving its life so that my other red CR-X might live a long and happy existence. Doors, front guards, bumpers, and tail lights will be first on the list to swap over. The remainder will probably be used for clips and bolts that I've broken or lost from the K24 powered member of the fleet.

Next up I'm putting together a trolley device to move the car around while it's at the panel shop.

[Water Boy]

Do very much enjoy your updates!

[MYDC5R]

So if i read this correctly... Tom is purchasing a car trailer? or organising one... yes?

[ChargeR]

Do very much enjoy your updates!

Thanks champ, I'm glad someone enjoys my ramblings.

So if i read this correctly... Tom is purchasing a car trailer? or organising one... yes?

Not quite, the CR-X is only a mild street car it doesn't need a dedicated trailer. I did need to come up with means to roll the thing though.

CR-X movement

So for a few weeks now I've needed to get this car moving so I can take it to be painted. My initial plan was to strip off the removable panels, get 3 mates, and lift the thing on to a trailer. However it was quite wisely pointed out to me that the guys at the panel shop would still need to roll the shell into the booth and move it about their workshop. With this in mind I put together a trolley contraption today. Here's what I started with, some castors, a bunch of 35 x 35 and 40 x 40 SHS and some 5mm plates I'd prepared earlier:



In progress. The plan was to make a roughly rectangular frame, with provision to extend the length and width of the points where the jack points of the car would sit, by telescoping a 35 x 35 in the 40 x 40, so I can move other cars with this device in the future. Anything from a Micra to an Accord Euro should fit, although the structure would most likely crumple with a full car on it, from my rough calculations it should be okay up to around 800kg though.



Nearly finished. Here's the trolley minus the outriggers that support the jack points of the car tacked together. The castors are rated to 200 kg each, with the front two swivelling and the rears fixed to give me some hope of maneuvering this thing with a car on it:



Done. The whole thing is relatively lightweight, less than 15kg and will fit comfortably in the back of my ute. I'll get some rubber to line the jack pads to try to prevent the car sliding off, that combined with strapping the CR-X down to the front and rear jack points should be enough to keep it on there. I might add on some hooks to make it easier to strap it down.





That's all for today, more updates to come soon.

[ChargeR]

Sleeves

Not much happening on the CR-X front, I've been busy with some other cars and organising a track day. Despite this I've been ordering parts in the wee hours of the morning and some of them have started turning up.




My first impulse purchases were some 1/4" weld on Aluminium hose barbs. Using these I'm going to make my own coolant overflow tank, if you look closely in the picture you can see some of the other materials that I'm going to use.




Also today a heavy box turned up. Opening it up revealed my threaded coilover sleeves from Ground Control, who were pretty good to deal with and sent them out within a couple of days of my order. From this many will be able to guess what shocks I'm going to use initially, as there aren't many good decent shocks that you need to use a threaded sleeve with.



I've gone with 18kg/mm rates for the front and 16kg/mm at the rear to begin with, using 65mm ID, 6" long springs, the same as the Mugen N1 shocks on the DC5 so I can mix and match with some of the rest of my spring collection as I see fit. I am considering trying the ridiculous "rear spring rate way higher than front" method the US guys seem to love, just so I can see that I don't like it and never do it again.

We'll see. I need to rig up a set of bars to mount to the front and rear of the car to do DIY alignments, so a quick spring or ride height change isn't a big deal. Maybe I should get the car running first though.