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I drove around our local Kart track a few weeks ago. I think it would have been much better without the front swaybar I needed to use the handbrake on two corners to get around there with any amount of speed. hehe
| 1991 Formula Red NSX | 1999 CW DC2R #00-193 | 2013 Black CBR1000RR
"And so you touch this limit, something happens and you suddenly can go a little bit further. With your mind power, your determination, your instinct, and the experience as well, you can fly very high." - Ayrton Senna
the front swaybar removal is usually reserved for motokhana/autocross vehicles...
as it is so extreme in it's effect
Thats why it went back on...LOL...We then did Eastern Creek with uncontrollable rear snaps...and found out later the front sway bar end links worked themselves loose...a quick tighten up and all was good.
my experiences re: camber kits.
i have zeal coilovers and found that there wasnt really a need for much camber adjustment since lowering the car to the setting i have does not produce excessive rear camber.
i did buy and install vision front and rear camber kits a while ago and am happy with their quality.
originally i wanted to reduce the front negative camber without raising the car, but i found that the vision kit (and almost all others that i know of for dc2r) dont really have much adjustment for less camber than what the stock A-arm provides. rather it allows for adjustment anywhere from a tiny bit less than stock to a lot MORE camber, which is not really what i wanted.
anyway i was able to adjust camber to more exact parameters than before which made me happy since i am so pedantic with the car..in the end i raised the front a few mm and was able to reduce the negative camber from -3.5deg to -2.5deg which, along with less agressive toe out, has improved my tyre wear for daily driving.
"What's the point of racing a car that doesn't look cool?" - Nakai-san, RWB
sorry to jack the thread, but i'm thinking of chucking on my BC rear camber kits on.. my friend told me 0 camber is best at rear as it won't slide out during cornering.. and after reading tinks few posts it has made me think otherwise.. if i was to be doing mountain runs will it be ideal to have 0 camber at rear?
Your alignment plays one part... your driving style plays the major part . No one has mentioned their toe settings yet. Just curious whats everyone's toe settings?
You should talk to the person doing your alignment on how you want the car to be setup and what the car is setup for.
sorry to jack the thread, but i'm thinking of chucking on my BC rear camber kits on.. my friend told me 0 camber is best at rear as it won't slide out during cornering.. and after reading tinks few posts it has made me think otherwise.. if i was to be doing mountain runs will it be ideal to have 0 camber at rear?
Definitely not a good idea. You will have less grip with 0 camber and I would think the car would snap into oversteer quickly once the tyres started to let go.
Anyway, from my experience the rear alignment on a DC2 is critical to the way the car feels in corners, and the way it turns in etc. A small amount of change to rear toe & camber can create a far more interesting (or ordinary) driving experience.
| 1991 Formula Red NSX | 1999 CW DC2R #00-193 | 2013 Black CBR1000RR
"And so you touch this limit, something happens and you suddenly can go a little bit further. With your mind power, your determination, your instinct, and the experience as well, you can fly very high." - Ayrton Senna
Your alignment plays one part... your driving style plays the major part . No one has mentioned their toe settings yet. Just curious whats everyone's toe settings?
Toe 0 front, 1.6mm total toe-in rear.
| 1991 Formula Red NSX | 1999 CW DC2R #00-193 | 2013 Black CBR1000RR
"And so you touch this limit, something happens and you suddenly can go a little bit further. With your mind power, your determination, your instinct, and the experience as well, you can fly very high." - Ayrton Senna
Hm... I just had my car aligned the other day. I didn't get a print out since the printer at this place wasn't working.
But from memory:
Front Camber: -3.5
Rear Camber: -2.5
Toe Out Front: 1.5
Toe In Rear: 0.8
I also had my castor adjusted as well, I'm using an Avid Traction Bar. I was advised by the person who did my alignment if you plan on running the traction bar for competitive use please make sure all the bolts are the correct bolts. On this avid traction bar the bolts aren't completely through the treads so the washers/silicon treads (sorry forgot what its called) aren't fully working. Also the bolt where it connects to the control arm also needs to be changed to oem bolts since there needs to be at least 10mm of tread left. This is from what I've been told so im not 100% on it. Dave can you clarify please.
My guards also need to be rolled for when I run semis since the front is tucking and my sump is the lowest point on the car!
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