I know....at this rate they'll need to increase the paramedic wages to 200k a year to support my spending habit. Obsessive compulsive buying...I finally understand why women shop so much.
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Norm - Perth DC5R
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Originally posted by Black_Spirit View PostHey Norm,
Be very careful with those spacers! I hope you've done your research into which kind and how reputable they are... cuz i'm pretty sure spacers are illegal... Its more of a safety concern than anything else. I'm not sure if the mods have pruned some old threads, but there was much talk about spacers and how 'safe' they are.
It has something to do with the wheel hub turning first which turns the spacer and then turns the rim. The series of motions is unsafe, but there are pplz out there that will say otherwise and have been running spacers for a number of days/months/years/decades. I def won't recommend to u to use them on track.. the last thing u want is to crash and destroy ur car cuz of the spacers. I'm not trying to dishearten you, just be careful and be aware of the consequences spacers have.
A while ago, I was contemplating getting 17" white JDM rims but cuz the aust model got raped and so the braking system was taken off that of an S2000 so the offset was complete different and was deemed unsafe to run the JDM rims with spacers or even without spacers.
Either way, those rims look hot mate!! definitely looking after the car as you've mentioned, great to see!!
Maybe, but if you order top quality spacers such as H&R, you will have no such problem. Im sure Norm woould have found himself, these spacers, once you attach the sapcer onto the original wheel studs, there is NO movement of this spacer at all. This sapcer is fit snugle by the 5 lugs, as well as the correct sized hub of 64.1mm.
I ran these spacers front and rear for a solid 6 months, and i drove on many spirited runs as well, no dramas on my end at all!
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Installation GruppeM + Mugen Front strut bar day!. At last the CAI has arrived!. To some people they might be thinking "meh..its only a gruppeM, alot of people have that", true!..but, when you pay for something with your hard earned money and get to put it to your project car, that feeling is ...mhmh like overwhelming joy
GruppeM + Red Tegiwa Induction Hose
Mugen Front Strut Bar
Will take a before and after photo of how the car looks!. Hopefully we can sort out any rattling issues if there is any once we're done!.
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Ok update again.
Gruppe M + Mugen Front Strut Bar Installation complete! Rattling sorted. Increase in stability in turning in the front end and + + for reponse when on the throttle.
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After
Managed to also get my hands on a pair of mugen headers and put my ClubITR sticker on. The headers and exhaust both needed a little bit of polishing to get it back shiny but all I can say is autosol is amazing stuff.
I got recommended by a friend to go to this place and I seriously can vouch for Peter at Exhaust World. He is one amazing, guinene and honest bloke. I initially came to him to ask him for some gaskets etc, and he ended up asking me how or who was gonna help me put the headers + exhaust on. I replied with "DIY ourselves". He immediately did not hesitate and offered his workshop, his tools, pressure guns and most importantly the hoist. I was shelled shocked and definetely grateful. Need to get him some EtOH as repayment sometime soon. He said "Its not point me doing it for you guys, better you guys do it yourselves and use the equipment here". He even extended my O2 Sensor and provide the gaskets free of cost. What a great bloke.
So here is myfriend in some pictures and myself (not in pictures) taking off the OEM headers and exhaust and installing the mugen ones.
After installing the headers + ep3 sway bar and exhaust I was amazed at how nice it sounded. When the foot was on the pedal it growled, and when idle and constant speed it was as quiet as stock. With the 4-2-1 header compared to the OEM 4-1, the mugen header definetly was more free flowing and allowed better response and acceleration.
Next mod - Mugen Engine Mounts (Ordered and awaiting delivery)
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Thanks for the comments guys. I'm trying keep performance at a top but yet maintain the streamline of mugen as best as possible. Didn't want the mugen CAI because it wouldn't of done much good without the front mugen lip as well.
Originally posted by Didz View PostNice parts man. I would recommend as another future mod, getting a lightened flywheel and HD clutch when you need to replace it. I noticed an increase in engine response when i put my new fly in.
Keen to see dyno figures :P
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Originally posted by Norm View PostDidz, how much did you get your liftened flywheel and HD clutch installed? and would it be recommended to change anything else with it?
Changing the clutch and flywheel means that you have to take out the gearbox. And in doing so, you could change the LSD, gear ratio and final drive. If your thinking of doing any of that, then i suggest you do it all at once. It saves quite a bit on labour costs.
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Your not so much changing the gearbox, as opening it up. Since you drive a typeR, it already comes with LSD, but you can always upgrade that.
The final drive basically lowers all your overall gears, meaning that your rpms go up much sooner then original ie more pull. Example with normal final drive, at 110km/h you'll generally be around 4500rpm, but with a new final drive, you'll probably be running at 5500rpm, and waste more fuel, and have a noisier cabin. For track use, it'll do wonders. If your car's a daily then maybe don't mess with the gears, i didn't, and i'm glad.
Maybe at most change the LSD along with the flywheel and clutch if you want, typically with brands like cusco or spoon.
And yes, if your installing a flywheel and clutch, then it would allow you to change everything mentioned. Its a whole days work, so you don't want to have to take it apart again to install something you could have earlier.
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