My S2000 Weekend/Track day warrior

[Toddxxx]

Awesome stuff Pete. All will be worth it once the car runs with the SC.
If you decide to keep the heat exchanger I would be interested in the bolt. Been thinking of getting rid of it after seeing the motoiq article

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[ChargeR]

Good work Pete, happy to help you in the quest for supercharged 1:28s at Winton.

[eskimo_firefighter]

Awesome stuff Pete. All will be worth it once the car runs with the SC.
If you decide to keep the heat exchanger I would be interested in the bolt. Been thinking of getting rid of it after seeing the motoiq article

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Thanks Todd. It should only take one more session on the car to get the S/C on, so I am pretty excited for the weekend. I will most likely leave the heat exchanger on, but it depends if the HAMP short filter clears or not.

Good work Pete, happy to help you in the quest for supercharged 1:28s at Winton.

Much appreciated Tom. I hope you succeed in your quest of 1:28's also.

[eskimo_firefighter]

Supercharger Install PT.4

The last blog post had me encountering fitment issues of the OEM oil filter due to interfering with the charger pipe.
After doing some research, I found that there is a HAMP oil filter that is shorter than the standard OEM Honda filter.

Photo for reference, the filter I acquired is blue and the is the updated version of the 'short' HAMP filter, but it is the same size.

Part Number: H1540-PFB-525

The height difference is 22mm. 86mm for the standard Honda filter, 64mm for the HAMP.



I fit on the new HAMP filter and it is still a tight fit. it is a few MM from the charger pipe but it does clear now. Still contemplating whether to delete the water to oil heat exchanger but currently it has little to no chance of contact as the charger pipe that is close to it is a solid piece, the main issue I have is the inability to fit the OEM filter wrench tool to tightly screw the filter.



Fitting the charger pipes.

I didn't take too many photo's of this. Basically, just joining all the pipes together with hoses, hose clamps and brackets. I am impressed with HKS's design and hardware which is robust and ergonomic. The manual included was clear and concise thanks to the pictures, which made install relatively painless.











Valve clearances.

While the valve cover was out, I checked the valve clearances.
By setting top dead center for each piston using the markings on the cam gear by rotating the crankshaft clockwise, I was able to use the feeler gauge to check the valve clearances for each cylinder.

Intake: 0.12-0.25 mm (0.008-0.010 in.)
Exhaust: 0.25-0.29mm (0.010-0.011 in.)



Even after quite a few fair track days since its last valve adjustment which would have been 3+ years ago from the install of the AP2 intake valve retainers, the valve clearances were within spec so I did not make any adjustments to the clearances.

As the valve cover was bleeding a bit of oil I ordered a new valve cover gasket kit. Which also comes with 5 new rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts.



While the coilpack cover was out, I lightly sanded the metal embroidery as it was quite stained.



Didn't spend too much time on it, but it's much better than it was before.



With the valve cover back on, all hoses connected, all bolts marked and checked. It was almost time to start get the car started!









Priming the Supercharger

Before starting the car with the supercharger for the first time, it is recommended to prime the supercharger with fluid before running the motor. I filled the supercharger cooler full of the HKS traction fluid, disconnected the two cam plug sensors to prevent the car from starting, then I cranked the motor a few times to get the supercharger spin to create vacuum and suck some of the fluid from the S/C cooling system at a relatively low speed. Once I was comfortable that the supercharger turbine had some fluid in it, I started the engine. The supercharger spins at a rapid rate of speeds up to 110k RPM for the HKS GTS7040 turbine, so it is vital that it has fluid in the system at all times with no airpockets.



Excuse the poor camera work, but it was quite a tense moment starting this for the first time.



Successful start! The car started up without any issues and this is on OEM fuel pump, injectors and ECU, thank goodness for MAP sensors.

I let it run for a good 20 minutes without revving it too high, inspecting for boost leaks and oil leaks around the new Greddy oil cooler kit. None found, it was a great success. I have not driven it on the road just yet as I would like to at least get the injectors, fuel pump and Haltech in before I am comfortable in doing so.



Next on the agenda
- Install DW200 fuel pump
- Install ID1050X injectors
- Haltech platinum PRO + Haltech/Racepak IQ3 dash install
- ?????

[freakygeek]

Epic! Looking forward to seeing what you think of the extra power and how it drives

[ChargeR]

Great update, looking forward to seeing it out at the track at H Nationals(?). Remember that the stress of a tow back from Wakefield is temporary, but regrets last forever.

[eskimo_firefighter]

Epic! Looking forward to seeing what you think of the extra power and how it drives

So am I! Works a little busy so it might be a while until I can drive it.

Great update, looking forward to seeing it out at the track at H Nationals(?). Remember that the stress of a tow back from Wakefield is temporary, but regrets last forever.

Thanks Tom. Haha, the stress of a tow back from Wakefield is too much. Hope to give it a good shakedown before then at a local track before I start doing crazy things like driving a newly supercharged + E85 vehicle with semi's and with a giant rear wing interstate.

Strainless Steel CLeib 70mm exhaust to replace the J's Racing 70RR.

Off comes the J's Racing 70RR. This exhaust was great, but with strict noise restrictions at tracks that I would like to attend such as SMSP, the bend in Adelaide and even Wakefield I decided to get a more subtle exhaust. The exhaust is definitely heavier but who cares, I'll have an extra 100+KW soon I hope.



I decided on this exhaust as it looked good and sounded good, with clean note, no drone while not being overly loud. I'll grab some sound/video clips of the exhaust after the car is tuned.

[Toddxxx]

Nice looking exhaust! For reference smsp has no meter set up currently even though there was talk of one being installed

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[eskimo_firefighter]

Nice looking exhaust! For reference smsp has no meter set up currently even though there was talk of one being installed

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Thanks Todd, it's good to be on the safe side anyways.

Also I was thinking of removing the water to oil heat exchanger, but upon closer inspection I think I would have to remove the supercharger bracket to delete it as one of the hoses is hidden behind the bracket!

[plAythiNG]

thanks for the info on the short filter option Pete! I have a similar issue with my K24 whilst retaining oem heat exchanger and also greddy sandwich plate!

I've ordered some and look forward to finally changing my oil filter lol!

[iwearmoccos]

Please provide update on tune and/or date of upcoming tune.
We've been sitting idle for too long.

[eskimo_firefighter]

thanks for the info on the short filter option Pete! I have a similar issue with my K24 whilst retaining oem heat exchanger and also greddy sandwich plate!

I've ordered some and look forward to finally changing my oil filter lol!

No worries Alex.

Please provide update on tune and/or date of upcoming tune.
We've been sitting idle for too long.

Update coming right up Rhys.

Racepak IQ3 Dash plugged in

Confirmed that the dash is working as expected. I was awaiting on the cable I ordered to plug this in, thankfully it works as expected. Thanks gumtree seller for not ripping me off. So far the dash does view some data coming from the ECU and I can already see that water temperature is present. Right now I need some special cable to adjust the screenviews on the IQ3. It is a 3.5mm jack to serial/USB, how odd is that for things to use a 3.5mm headphone jack to transfer/adjust data!?



Fuel Pump Install

To get the fuel pump in, I was awaiting on the OEM fuel sock/filter replacement. As the photo depicts, the DW fuel filter provided is puny and has about 40-50% less surface area than the OEM S2000 filter does. Using the OEM one decreases the likelihood of fuel starvation, however remains a strong possibility due to the increased fuel demand from the engine. I'll look into this later when the problem arises.



AEM Fuel Rail + Fuel Pressure Regulator + Injector Dynamics 1050X



The AEM Fuel rail wasn't a requirement, however it was a nice to have as it has provisions to run a fuel pressure gauge. The adjustable fuel pressure regulator is not also a prerequisite for the build, however it was recommended by my tuner in case that the fuel pressure needed to be adjusted due to the increased fuel demand from the S/C and E85.



So far, I am not entirely impressed with the AEM fuel rail as it is leaking slightly from a thread. I will use some thread sealant that is resistant to fuel of course to hopefully mitigate this. The ID Injectors fitted on perfectly at least.





Ignore the vacuum line on installed on the wrong nozzle for the FPR. Haha.

The tune is booked for mid MAY and the return to the track is projected to be in early June. Exciting times ahead.. I hope?

Next on the list is the E85 flex fuel sensor + wideband O2 sensor install.

[iwearmoccos]

Can't wait for the tune party!!

[eskimo_firefighter]

ECU Upgrade.

Recently just realised that the Haltech Platinum Pro did not allow the Flex Fuel sensor to be directly wired into it as it lacked any provision to take in a digital input required for the flex fuel sensor. In order for the flex fuel sensor to work with this ECU, it required a $450-$500 I/O expander box which I could not justify.

Instead I sold the IQ3 Dash, the Platinum Pro and got myself a new ECU.

Haltech Elite 1500.



This ECU allows for the Flex Fuel sensor to be wired into directly. It has some pretty nifty features, It can do self learning on the fly for the fuel map provided that it has a Wideband O2 sensor, knock control to prevent pre-detonation, better engine protection features, better data-logging features and many more features that I probably won't even use.

I had gotten rid of the IQ3 dash to put towards this ECU, but luckily it was no longer a necessity as the Elite is OBD2 compliant. By purchasing a CAN interface to OBD2 cable, I will be able to run a OBD2 Bluetooth module to output data into my phone, this will give me even more flexibility with what data I would like to view within the ECU.

Various sensors and misc parts
- Oil pressure sensor, to be wired directly into the ECU.
- Oil temp sensor, to be wired directly into the ECU.
- CAN hub expander - this will allow the car to run multiple CAN interface devices that I plan on running. Such as the OBD2 module + O2 Sensor.
- J's Racing Oil filter stopper - As I there is no space for me to tighten the oil filter with the OEM Honda tool, I got this as a safety precaution as the S2000 is known to vibrate filters loose.





Haltech Wideband Controller + Sensor

This will allow the ECU to accurately measure the exact air fuel ratio the engine is running. This is can be a good tuning tool to accurately tune AFR's accordingly and as a safety measure to ensure that the engine is running accordingly. This also enables the a few features that the ECU has, such as long term fuel trimming, self learning, closed O2 loop control and more.



Oil change in preparation for the TUNE.

Previously was using the Castrol EDGE 5w30, I am now putting in 5w40. Recommended to up the viscosity for extra boost, power and heat.



Unfortunately today was not all successful. The car is running great besides the coolant temps are quite high, while cruising the coolant temps would hover around 88-91 degrees. I inspected the radiator hoses and found that the top hose was hot and the bottom hose was cold.

Re-bled the cooling system in hope to get rid of airpockets that was blocking the circulation, but this didn't help.

Most likely is the thermostat is stuck closed, as the heater blowing hot air, the top hose is hot, bottom hose is cold. I will have to look into this further but unfortunately this will most likely delay the tune further.

[iwearmoccos]

Have you found a replacement thermostat yet? It looks the same as a B series one in the photo you used on Facebook and most places sell those.
Could also pull out the existing one and put it in boiling water to see if it opens, at least confirms the issue.