My S2000 Weekend/Track day warrior

[Toddxxx]

+2

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[nikos2k]

+2

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+3

[wpg81]

+4

[felixR]

+5

[Shakeel]

+666

[eskimo_firefighter]

Supercharger Install - Volume.1

It's been a very busy few months. But I managed to make some time to get started with the install.

First off, removing things that I don't need.

OEM heatshield and OEM air intake.

This can't be used to more, the piping for the supercharger is in the way of the OEM heatshield. This will no doubt heat up the brake fluid quickly as it is now exposed to the heat from the exhaust manifold and the supercharger intake pipe. This may need to be addressed in the future with a custom fabricated heat shield.







The Ingalls engine torque damper also had to be removed to make way for the supercharger mounting bracket. This was a decent bit of kit that helped stiffen the drivetrain. This shouldn't negatively impact the car too much as the car now has new Spoon engine/gearbox mounts + stiff Hasport differential mounts.

Paint Prep for the valve cover.

I removed the valve cover as it was looking a bit tired with the red OEM paint flaking off and oil seeping from the seal.

I stripped the valve cover with paint stripper and is now drying in the backyard. Will paint it sometime soon.



HKS instructions.



The instructions are all in Japanese, however it does have some detailed pictures step by step. So far judging by the booklet it looks very doable.

Unfortunately, I was unable to progress with the install as I forgot that I needed a crank pulley holder to remove the OEM crank pulley to install the HKS supercharger crank pulley. HKS provides a crank pulley and a supercharger pulley that bolts over the HKS crank pulley.



Will resume the install next week or so.

Next on the agenda
- Remove the OEM crank pulley and install the HKS Crank pulley/supercharger pulley, this may break or make the progress of the install as it is quite a stubborn bolt to remove.
- Valve Adjustment, purchased feeler gauges for this.
- Paint valve cover.
- What ever is next to do for the SC kit.

[ChargeR]

Woo updates! Excellent.

I've got the special tool you'll need to do the valve clearances. I'll provide it with the other special tools.

[eskimo_firefighter]

Woo updates! Excellent.

I've got the special tool you'll need to do the valve clearances. I'll provide it with the other special tools.

Thanks heaps Tom!


Supercharger Install PT.2 with a bit of Chequebook Racing.

Greddy 13 Row standard Oil cooler.

With more power comes more heat, so I decided to get a oil cooler despite how much I dislike adding another failure point to the car. I will keep an extremely close eye on the AN fittings and the sandwich plate for leakages. Install was easy and it is a quality piece of kit.



What's included:

- 13 Row oil cooler that sits in front of the radiator and of which will sit behind the HKS S/C intercooler once installed. It should get decent airflow despite sitting behind the intercooler. It also increases the oil capacity by 700ml I believe, improving oil heat dissipation.
- Thermostatic oil sandwich plate with 2 available slots for sensors. Thermostatic sandwich plates block oil flow to the oil cooler until it reaches operating temperature. This allows the engine to reach the desired operating temp quicker.
- Brackets and bolts to mount the cooler.
- Two braided oil lines with plastic hose covers.

Oil Cooler mounted.



Supercharger Oil Cooler unit.

The kit comes with a small oil cooler unit for the supercharger with all brackets and hoses required. It even has a filter for the supercharger fluid.







Valve Cover Painted

First time doing this. Satisfied with the results with the VHT black wrinkle paint. The wrinkle really shows when it's treated with heat. I used a heat gun for this. An oven would have been perfect for jobs like this. I used 4 coats of paint for this.





Supercharger Mounting Bracket

Got started with the really exciting stuff. First mounted the idler pulleys on the brackets, organised all the bolts, nuts and washers accordingly.





Next is to prepare the install of the bracket onto the F20C. The bracket mostly bolts up to the holes on the engine, HKS also provides a few brackets to bolt the supercharger plate up. One is located right in front of head, and another bracket is on the VTEC solenoid.



This is the back of the supercharger mounting plate. Behind it has thick spacers to allow bolts to thread through and bolt into the engine.



The bracket is now bolted to the engine. I was a bit worried that it wouldn't fit with the oil cooler braided lines installed, but it cleared with plenty of room.



Installation of the Supercharger GTS7040 unit.

The supercharger finally goes onto the bracket, first I connected up the oil cooler lines into the supercharger unit.



Then bolted the supercharger onto the bracket. Some of the plugs that were mounted on the VTEC solenoid, had to be relocated to make space for the unit.

Supercharger Unit Installed.





I have been using Loctite on all the bolt threads and will be marking them all with a texta.

Next on the agenda:
- Remove OEM crank pulley with ChargeR's crank pulley holder tool + breaker bar.
- Finalise Supercharger install, intake, intercooler, piping, pulleys, belts etc.

[Austro]

Good stuff. How much power are you expecting to make with the supercharger?

[eskimo_firefighter]

Hey mate, I would say about 200kw-230kw at the wheels. This car will be running E85 so it maybe more, who knows. This kit is rated at 400hp (298kw) at the fly/engine on 100octane I believe. E85 is 105 - 107 octane so I would expect this kit to meet or even exceed that power rating by HKS.

[plAythiNG]

looking good peter. install looks pretty straight forward?

[eskimo_firefighter]

looking good peter. install looks pretty straight forward?

Mostly yes and no. Next blog post to explain why in detail, haha.

Supercharger Install PT.3

Test fit of the front mount intercooler.

The HKS kit provides brackets and spacers to mount the FMIC. It uses existing holes in the chassis. No drilling or cutting required. Bolted it on and fit the front Amuse style bumper for a test fit and it cleared.



Crank pulley removal/install.

ChargeR aka Tom came down to drop off the crank pulley holder tool to remove the crank pulley bolt.
This proved to be quite a task, it took a few attempts. From using loctite Freeze and release pentrating oil, WD40, heatgun treatment and even the starter motor trick which involves resting the crank pulley holder tool against the chassis and using the startermotor to crank and break the bolt loose. This also did not work.

Crank pulley tool bent after applying plenty of force.



What finally worked was a blow torch to the bolt for 5 minutes, breaker bar with a jack pole and the crank pulley holder tool with a jack pole over it. Thanks heaps to Tom for bringing the tools required to do this job and assisting!



Install of the new HKS pulley was straight forward. It only goes in one way like the OEM does. Torque the bolt to 245nm and then mount the supercharger pulley on top with 6 allen key bolts.

Install of supercharger Idler Pulleys + Belt

This has probably been the biggest challenge so far. The level of tension required to get this belt over all the pulleys was ridiculous. Not sure if there is a special trick for it, but the instruction manual advised to heat up the belt (thanks google translate) to allow it to expand to slip over the pulleys.
I had to remove the idler pulley, then reinstall the pulley with the belt already slipped over the crank pulley and the supercharger pulley. This was quite a mission as I had to somehow slot the idler pulley into the bracket with a high tension belt resisting the install of the pulley.

This eventually worked after some extensive persuasion.



Restrictor plate/bracket.

HKS offers two restrictor plate/brackets in the kit, depending on how much power you want.

Left offers 340hp or so.
Righ offers 400hp or so.



I went with the 400hp, because yolo. Not sure why anyone would opt for the smaller restrictor bracket to be honest, safety I presume?



Intake arm for the supercharger.

This was quite fiddly to install. As I had to align the bracket/restrictor plate, two gaskets and the intake arm without the gaskets fall out of place.



Once done, I had just realised that the arm was extremely close to exhaust manifold heat shield...

It had to come out again and then I had to go to town with a hammer onto the heat shield to make space for the intake arm.





Oil Filter fitment woes.

With the test fit of the supercharger intake arm, it was discovered that the oil filter was in the way of the piping due to the Greddy sandwich plate spacing out the mounting point of the oil filter outwards which got in the way of the supercharger piping. I've come up with a few workarounds with this.

1. Remove the oil-coolant heat exchanger donut where the oil filter mounts. The purpose of this is to basically allow the engine to warm up quicker on cold starts.

MotoIQ does a good write up on this.

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...l-Cooling.aspx

2. Oil filter relocation kit. Expensive and absolute last resort.

3. Somehow find a shorter oil filter with the same pitch thread.

I started with the easiest option first. Option 3. Did some research on Ryco and found that the Subaru WRX oil filter has the same pitch thread and width but the height was 64mm instead of 86mm that the OEM Honda is. Bought one and test fitted, no good.



The issue was that the O-ring was too thick and there was not enough threads in the WRX filter to fully secure this filter onto the sandwich plate with a nice seal. It would not work, tried to see if retailers sold a thinner O ring seal to attempt to use this filter but no luck. I tried the Honda O ring on the ryco filter and it threaded on perfectly but the O ring seal looked sketchy.

I will go with option 1 and remove the water/oil heat exchanger.

A shorter stub has been ordered to replace the stock stub. (Part# 90015-PH1-013).

Next on the agenda.
- Install all the piping for the supercharger.
- Valve adjustment.
- Start the car, see if it runs.
- Wait a few weeks for the shorter stub to arrive and delete the Oil/Water heat exchanger and get the sandwich plate back on + oil cooler hoses.

[plAythiNG]

would be interesting to see how slow it takes now to get the oil temp to operating temps now with the removal of the oem heat exchanger, and adding on the oil cooler. Have you measured the height of those S2000 specific PCX filters? In my K24 swap I also had similar issues of the oem honda filter being too tall. I'm running a Valvoline filter.

What have previous RHD Supercharged guys ran in the past to retain the oem heat exchanger?

[Shakeel]

Awesome progress Pete!

[eskimo_firefighter]

would be interesting to see how slow it takes now to get the oil temp to operating temps now with the removal of the oem heat exchanger, and adding on the oil cooler. Have you measured the height of those S2000 specific PCX filters? In my K24 swap I also had similar issues of the oem honda filter being too tall. I'm running a Valvoline filter.

What have previous RHD Supercharged guys ran in the past to retain the oem heat exchanger?

Well on the way to work today, did some research on the train on smaller oil filters. Turns out there is a HAMP oil filter that is shorter. I will most likely leave the heat exchanger donut and just use this filter if it all works well. Will be picking up this filter soon and report back on results. Haven't got any dimensions on the fat/wide S2000 filter which may still have issues with clearance despite it being a bit shorter.

Awesome progress Pete!

Thanks Shak!