Originally posted by PG_DC5
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That guy can drive that Legacy very well, that's for sure! -
There'll be an update to this thread later this week! For now though a very small update..
The Alpine unit had unfortunately failed on me twice and therefore had to be replaced twice. The face of the Alpine unit can flip down to reveal a CD slot and therefore the pins on the back of the display eventually cannot maintain a connection with the main part of the unit, meaning on hot days your screen and buttons stop working, or if you hit bumps in the road your screen and buttons stop working.
Fortunately I have connections at JB Hi-Fi and I was able to organise a replacement for another unit. I opted for a Double DIN unit being this Kenwood DDX4015BT. I had to modify a universal fascia kit to fit it in my car but I'm happy with how the install turned out
Some big things coming very soon though as I mentioned before. The last mods to this car for 2015 will include
- Coilovers
- Whiteline rear sway bar
- Gruppe M intake
Stay tuned
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Time for an update! For a long time I've wanted to install coilovers in this car and at last it's finally happened! The brand I've chosen is Standard Suspension (STD) and this model is the R3. These coilovers are ride height adjustable with a scaling system printed on the shocks, and they are also 12 step damper adjustable and camber adjustable from the top mounts in the front. If memory serves me correctly the spring rates are F: 7kg/mm and R: 10kg/mm. Mao has said these coilovers parts are manufactured in Japan and assembled in Taiwan. Evolution R is also the largest stockist of coilovers in WA and Mao keeps all replacement parts in his workshop.
I spent a very long time reading all about the different types of coilovers on the internet and eventually bit the bullet on this set for their bang for buck price and good reviews with WRX and Evo drivers running them. For warranties sake as a daily driver this also made this coilover an attractive choice.
Anyway, Mao fitted the coilovers yesterday along with supplied Hardrace rear camber arms and initial impressions? The handling as definitely improved and the car feels like it's riding on rails again. The ride comfort is still forgiving which is great and the bumps are soaked up pretty well. The car however does need another alignment, Mao said he could not achieve the correct toe angle when aligning the vehicle. He has adjusted the camber at the moment to allow the car to achieve a toe angle as straight as it would allow however he has said "you will need front and rear toe arms to achieve correct toe angle".
Now correct me if I'm wrong, for correct toe adjustment in the front I will need aftermarket tie rods (such as Todd's tie rods), and this is a common issue when lowering DC5's. However there is no aftermarket parts that can be acquired to adjust rear to as far as I've ever seen? Does anyone have any ideas on this? A google search shows that rear toe is adjusted by a bolt in the trailing arm. If anyone can chime in that'd be great, and if anyone has a set of Todd's tie rods available for purchase that would be great to! Unfortunately I forgot to ask for a copy of the alignment sheet... But here's some snaps
Again a huge thanks to Mao at Evolution R. If anyone is interested in reading more about Standard, this is their website http://www.standardsuspension.comLast edited by Beatz; 22-10-15, 09:49 AM.Comment
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Classic bronze on red, looks great man. I did the same fun2drive thing as you, epic photo you have MT.Fuji as the backdrop. I wanted the same photo but it was very foggy when we went and didn't get to see the mountain
Regarding the toe adjustment at the front, my memory is a bit hazy with DC5/EP3 suspension. But you do not need aftermarket tie rods for good toe alignment. However you do need aftermarket toe rods if you needed to run more camber as the tie rod runs out of adjustment when you go pass a certain amount of camber. If that made any sense, haha.
So to summarize if you don't need extra camber you do not need aftermarket toe arms. But I think it is also dependent on car to car, as I have heard some people need shorter toe arms and vice versa due to each coil over design having a different tie rod pick up point.Comment
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Thanks for the help guys! I'll still need aftermarket tie rods to get the right level of camber, hit me up if you find them Felix!
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Small update: I've ordered Todd's tie rods to correct the toe alignment. They should arrive soon.
However, a question for you all on CITR.
Recently I've been monitoring my fuel consumption and the results aren't that great... It seems I get 450L to a tank (55L tank in this car).
That averages to a little bit above 12L/100km. Of course this car only has I/H/E modifications with VTEC rarely being used and the car spending a lot of it's time cruising in 6th gear on the freeway. My exhaust gurgles and pops when I downshift most of the time where one member here has suggested to another member (driving a DC2) that this could indicate the car is running rich. What can you guys advise? I feel 450km to a tank isn't good enough for an NA four cylinder with a 55L Tank.Comment
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I get to 390km before my fuel indicator comes on (DC5S stock). I think it's also a 55L tank? Not too sure. I spend my time driving metro Sydney in 4th and 5th gear. Not really advice sorry but thought I'd add in my own findings.Comment
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Beauty DC5
Could you help me to find this car here on forum??
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UPD
I've found it myself
Last edited by Grinch; 03-12-15, 12:22 AM.Comment
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I run just about the same as you on my type s with I/H/E (12L/100km). I got it tuned but it still made no difference lol. And for some reason my fuel light turns on just when i use abt 40L of fuel.Originally posted by Beatz View PostComment
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That's definitely a high fuel usage. I was averaging 7.5L on the highway and around 9 around town with i/h/e. With vtec at least once daily. Although I do drive like a granny most of the time.
"Because in a split second, it's gone" ~Ayrton SennaComment
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Alright guys, time for a long due update!
So firstly, I acquired a Spoon Sports front strut bar, fitted, and noticed no real difference. This is ok 'cause I was aware that probably wouldn't feel a difference, and it really is just a nice touch to the engine bay.
Next up I got a set of Todd's tie rods in from the US! First off, our exchange rate makes me want to cry However I have heard a lot of stories from Hard race tie rods and J's racing and really didn't want to risk anything snapping on a daily driver. I took the car to Mao at Evolution R to fit the tie rods and everything went well. Toe angle is now where it should be and my car is sitting on -1 camber all around.
There was one issue however, the tie rods emit a loud pop when taking corners VERY hard and if I reverse and turn on full lock it also makes a loud pop. The guy's at Evo R checked everything and made sure everything was tight and test drove the car multiple times. In the end, Mao has concluded that "these tie rods are shit, and they are too rigid which is what causes the popping noise. The steering geometry on your car is now like a go kart and you should keep two hands on the wheel as much as you can on the open road. You should have gotten J's racing, they are better suited. There are horror stories for every part and it's like Rays vs Rota".
I found his comment a bit bizarre considering so many people have used these Tie Rods with good results. Nevertheless, I've been driving the car for a few weeks and it feels so much better with the correct alignment. The popping noise isn't too frequent either so it really isn't a problem for me. Pictured below is my car at Evo R during the wheel alignment.
On December 18th I took my car back to the RAC Circuit at Perth Airport. I now have tools in my garage to do oil changes and DIY work so I changed all necessary fluids and took it for a thrash! The weather was great and I had a good time driving and getting to know my car. Next track I race will be Collie Motorplex I think!
In recent weeks I've also had a vibration throughout my car when accelerating. The vibration occurred between 1800 - 2300 RPM, it would only happen under Normal - heavy throttle, not light throttle. I had a look and discovered the Mugen Intake was vibrating against the spoon strut bar. Mao had stripped the two Allen key heads on both ends of the bar when changing the tie rods so I had to remove it as one piece and now the vibration doesn't occur. I want to keep the strut bar in, so maybe it's time to get an Injen CAI?
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Todd's rods are actually modified stock rods so I doubt they are the source of your popping noise
Just put some double sided tape or foam between the strut bar and your intake.Comment
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That's what I was thinking to, good idea with the foam thoughOriginally posted by T-BaGGeR View Post
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