More power!

[RichyR]

http://forum.clubitr.com.au/showpost...1&postcount=28

this guy gained 12.3kW@wheels from headers+cat+exhaust
no intake and stock ecu

12.3 translates to about 16kw@fly
intake and tuned ecu should be able to bring that up to about 30@fly....

I'll be "hoping" for another 8-10kw@wheels when I get my intake n get it tuned. Though my main aim is to have a smoother curve and get more area under my dyno graph so more gains midrange.

I'll let you know about the results when it happens.

[.::F[L]Y::.]

Yeah, Mugen don't know anything about designing intakes at all... it's just all about the bling...

/sarcasm

well thats just my opinion. Personally i wouldnt spend 1k on a mugen intake when i know there are other parts of the car that could be improved for that amount of money. Each to their own i suppose.

Personally i use to care about dyno numbers but have come to the realisation that dynos are only used as tuning tools and any 'numbers' are just there for 'wank' factor.

The setup i have mentioned before has been backed up with actual times down the 1/4 and can be done consistantly. So why pay more to go fast when you can use cheaper parts to achieve the same result?

[freakygeek]

well thats just my opinion. Personally i wouldnt spend 1k on a mugen intake when i know there are other parts of the car that could be improved for that amount of money. Each to their own i suppose.

Personally i use to care about dyno numbers but have come to the realisation that dynos are only used as tuning tools and any 'numbers' are just there for 'wank' factor.

The setup i have mentioned before has been backed up with actual times down the 1/4 and can be done consistantly. So why pay more to go fast when you can use cheaper parts to achieve the same result?

Fair call - but that's different than saying they are just about bling...

There are more advantages to the Mugen intake for DC2 than just the performance... fitment, sound, throttle response etc are all excellent qualities the Mugen intake has, and for me, I feel it is worth the price.

[Elwood]

kW are not additive...

it is a geometric progression...

Please explain yourself!

[00dc2]

yes tinks.. please explain.

i have always been of the opinion that if a mugen intake gains 5kw on an otherwise stock car then if you do a mugen intake on a car that already has had _good_ mods to headers,cat,exhaust then your likely to actually gain more than 5kw.

????

but i may be wrong!

where are dynodave and adrian@toda when you need them?

[.::F[L]Y::.]

dynodave now works at bel garage.

[Napoletana]

mI MugEn InTaKe PiX uP All DaH BitChEz BraAaH!!

Not to worried bout pickin up "bitchez" seeing as though im a chik...

[Napoletana]

OMG so many diff opinions.... so confusin!
Thanks everyone for your input though!

So seeing as though i am 110% more confused than y'day, who agrees that i should start with coilovers... iv read back on past posts and it seems as though it'd b the right start.....??????????

[zeth_an]

Coilovers will make your car feel different that's for sure... but originaly you want power right ?

hahahahaha... confusing aye :P

[Q_ball]

Get coils... whatever you do to your, a good setup there will always benefit you
Better than just lowering your car on some shit springs.

[Napoletana]

hmmmm yer well at the moment my car is lowered... scraps over every bump.... sorry to sound like i have completely no idea, but i don't... will coils stop the scraping???

still learning... and very eager to learn, so plz have patience with me

[Q_ball]

No, coils wont stop your car from scrapping...
No matter what you drop your car on ( be it coils, springs + shock combos, or jst chopped springs), if you drop it enough, it will still scrap.

If you plan on dropping your car heaps, then u might want to look at running a lower profile tyre, camber kit etc etc... all this to compensate for the extra loss in clearance between your wheels and ur guards.

Otherwsie, you'll find that you'll be scrubbing everytime u turn the wheel.

[tinkerbell]

...ooookay then - how much would you expect to yield then from that combo?

with engine modification, the "whole is less than the sum of its parts".

the engine is a complex air pumping system, with many sub-systems all integrated with each other.

just by adding parts doesnt necessarily add power each time...

especially if they are not matched.


here is my list of parts, what power do i put out?

B20B8 1974cc block
B16A vtec head
multi-angle valve job
ITR valve springs
Buddyclub Spec III+ camshafts
Toda adjustable cam gears
Sard adjustable FPR
Toda flywheel
ARP head studs & rod bolts
K&N air filter
63mm throttle body
ITR intake manifold
Hondata insulation gasket
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Power FC ECU
Skunk2 full exhaust
MSD ignition
2.5in cat
4-1 headers
K&N oil filter

[Wlee2]

Ricers edition

B20B8 1974cc block (stock 110kw benchmark)
B16A vtec head (ohh 3 kw)
multi-angle valve job
ITR valve springs (5kw)
Buddyclub Spec III+ camshafts (10kw)
Toda adjustable cam gears (5kw)
Sard adjustable FPR (~1kw)
Toda flywheel (10000KW.. im joking NONE! even ricers know that =P)
ARP head studs & rod bolts
K&N air filter (2kw)
63mm throttle body (5kw)
ITR intake manifold (2kw)
Hondata insulation gasket
Walbro 255 fuel pump (2kw)
Power FC ECU (10kw)
Skunk2 full exhaust (4kw)
MSD ignition (2kw)
2.5in cat (4kw)
4-1 headers (4kw)
K&N oil filter

according to that you should have a 169kw car atw...


But unfortunately in reality you might push out 130kw atw.. + or - 5kw

[Danga]

suggest you fix the scraping issue with the car (get some standard springs and bilstein shocks or something) enjoy driving the car... when it becomes too slow you would have saved enough to buy a faster car with more power