Mugsee's DC5R Blog

[felixR]

So boss Michael! Love it.

[ChargeR]

Nice update boss, looking forward to seeing how this thing will go at H Nationals with the changes you've made.

[MYDC5R]

Looks very very impressive mate.
Keep it up.
MR crew ftw!

[mugsee]

Did yoy have clearance issues fitting the mugen headers to the K24A3?? or did you just fit the kiddracing ones?
I'm hoping my spoon header will fit with no issues.

I got rid of the mugen headers before I swapped motors so only got to test fit the KRRH and a whiteline adjustable front sway bar with the K24. Your spoon headers will probably clear but whether or not you'll be able to get your sway bar in there is a different question.

So boss Michael! Love it.

Looks very very impressive mate.
Keep it up.
MR crew ftw!

Nice update boss, looking forward to seeing how this thing will go at H Nationals with the changes you've made.

Thanks guys!


I picked up a set of Type S lower control arms with PCI spherical bushings from eLtrix in an attempt to increase my castor. Because the Type S hub lower ball joint is different to the Type R, we needed to swap over the type S hub and knuckles at the same time.

Last week, ChargeR and C2888 donated their time to help me install these suspension components (thanks guys!). After chargeR removed the type S hubs, we realised that the PCI spherical bushings had been previously installed incorrectly and was probably not doing anyone any great favours. Pity I didn't pick this up before he'd removed the hubs.

Here is a picture of the PCI spherical bearings installed incorrectly:



Here is a picture of the PCI sphereical bushings installed correctly as per ChargeR's install thread HERE:



Note the way the bushings are offset and pointing the wrong way in the first picture - its quite subtle but it makes all the difference.

Subsequently after realising this fault, I changed my appointment with Techsport on Saturday morning from an alignment to a 'press-out and press-in these bushings'.

More updates and pictures to come when I get them off my camera...

[M@lew]

MOAR UPDATES!!!

How were they bearings to press out? (Pain or Techsport got them out pretty easily)

[andrew84tran]

lookin good. i had the caster offset bushes too. They dont add that much more, probably about close to 1 degree (don't quote me on that), but certainly make a difference. Whatever to go that split millisecond faster!

[mugsee]

MOAR UPDATES!!!

How were they bearings to press out? (Pain or Techsport got them out pretty easily)

The bearings are quite a pain to press out but Zach got it done within the hour. We suspect that the previous installer tried to take them out and correct his mistake, because some of the housing wasn't in the best of conditions.

lookin good. i had the caster offset bushes too. They dont add that much more, probably about close to 1 degree (don't quote me on that), but certainly make a difference. Whatever to go that split millisecond faster!

You're certainly right; 1 degree is heaps for a car that doesn't give you much to begin with! Every little thing helps with our cars. Btw, what did you move onto after selling the DC5R?

6/4/2013
I went down to Techsport to get get the PCI spherical bushings pressed out and pressed in correctly the right way and Zach did a great job of correcting the previous installation error. I was really pleased that he thinks about what hes doing and trying to achieve before committing to any changes.

Heres a picture of what they look like now:


The installation of the arms would be saved for another night later on that week.

After leaving Techsport, I took the car over to a friends place to service in preparation for H Nationals. For this service, I used 5W-40 Redline Motor Oil and ATE Blue Brake Fluid which was purchased from Autosphere.

Redline... Mmmm...



I've read good things about the ATE Superblue Racing Brake Fluid before but have never had any first hand experience. Because I sell the stuff, I thought it'd be a good experiement to see how it fairs on track compared to the Motul RBF600 that I was previously using. There isn't enough local information on it, so I'll be the test mule.



Price wise, the ATE Superblue is almost half the price of the Motul RBF600:
ATE Superblue Racing 1 Litre can - $29.50
Motul RBF600 500mL bottle - $24.00ea

Half the price, but is it just as good? I'll report back after H Nationals!

The cool thing about having blue brake fluid is that you can easily see when you're done flushing your lines, as the fluid changes from the previous colour (amber in my case, as it was Motul RBF600) and progresses to the blue'ish colour of the ATE fluid. It helps avoid wasting fluid unnecessarily.

I'm also running some Redline MT-85 transmission fluid that I put in a couple of thousand kms ago. I'll report back how the transmission feels after the track day.

[Symphorced]

Keen to hear your experience with the brake and transmission fluids. Especially the transmission fluid considering how bad the K series boxes get once they start getting hot.

[Stephen_AUS]

I can see you have flipped around your tie rod ends to compensate for the low height ride. Have you had any issues with it so far ? Because I'd been thinking to do the same since I saw yours ... rather than buying inverted ends if this does the same job.

[ChargeR]

Nice update mugsee, also interested to see how the ATE goes in your car. It certainly worked well in Paddington.

I can see you have flipped around your tie rod ends to compensate for the low height ride. Have you had any issues with it so far ? Because I'd been thinking to do the same since I saw yours ... rather than buying inverted ends if this does the same job.

Unfortunately you can't just flip the tie rod end upside down, the taper in the strut goes the wrong way for it to just bolt up. It's like this \ / normally but it's like / \ in the Mugen N1 lower brackets like what Mugsee and I are using. It's a pretty worthless mod anyway, I'm fairly certain that Mugen only did it to avoid binding in the ball joints and contact between the tie rod and other bits at the very very low ride heights Japanese race cars run with these N1 struts.

[felixR]

Nice. I'm also interested to see how the ATE goes.

[Stephen_AUS]

Nice update mugsee, also interested to see how the ATE goes in your car. It certainly worked well in Paddington.



Unfortunately you can't just flip the tie rod end upside down, the taper in the strut goes the wrong way for it to just bolt up. It's like this \ / normally but it's like / \ in the Mugen N1 lower brackets like what Mugsee and I are using. It's a pretty worthless mod anyway, I'm fairly certain that Mugen only did it to avoid binding in the ball joints and contact between the tie rod and other bits at the very very low ride heights Japanese race cars run with these N1 struts.

I thought so ... but very smart with the N1 struts.

[Oz Striker]

Redline oil is awesome! have used it for a while now. My type s used to burn a bit of oil back when it was getting Castrol Edge (or whatever it's called, was around $60 I think) but since using the redline oil it doesn't burn any, even as a track car!

[munkaii]

If I'm not mistaken too Tom and Mike, does the N1 lower bracket have different mounting positions for the lower brackets to achieve additional static camber?

[mugsee]

Keen to hear your experience with the brake and transmission fluids. Especially the transmission fluid considering how bad the K series boxes get once they start getting hot.

I've never really had any problems with my k-series box on track but that might be because I frequently change it out every so often...? Or, I'm not going fast enough to generate enough heat

Either way, I'll do a proper write up on the MT-85 after the track day.

Redline oil is awesome! have used it for a while now. My type s used to burn a bit of oil back when it was getting Castrol Edge (or whatever it's called, was around $60 I think) but since using the redline oil it doesn't burn any, even as a track car!

I haven't blown up an engine on it (yet) so I'd say its pretty awesome thus far as well!

If I'm not mistaken too Tom and Mike, does the N1 lower bracket have different mounting positions for the lower brackets to achieve additional static camber?

You're correct - the lower bracket on the N1 coilover is slotted in a way to provide around 4+ degrees of negative camber.

13/4/2013
I got an alignment at Techsport. Previous castor settings were +5.25 and + 5.32 so I've gained over 1 degree with the PCI Spherical Bushings which I'm happy with.



The steering wheel still doesn't centre an I'm not sure why not. It'll have to do for H Nationals but I'll try and look into it after when I've got more time.

14/4/2013
I got some new wheels and tyres so had to spend some time making them fit...




(This photo is thanks to Ying from EXE)



I'm hoping that they clear the inner strut and don't hit anything, as they fit a fair bit in (and out) when compared to the Advan RGs.