3 months since an update!? Surely you have something for us
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After a long hiatus it's time to get working on this again. Over the Australia Day weekend I eased back into it and got a few minor tasks done. First up I cut up my water pump, using an awkward combination of drop saw and flap disc. This is the original K24A2 part, and I removed the upper section where the automatic tensioner usually mounts as I won't be using it, the hole in my bonnet will be big enough as it is:
Mounted back on the block with a fresh bead of Hondabond:
Next up I had noticed after stripping the interior that the rear seat mounts on the floor were heavily cracked on the driver's side. It's something I've seen in a few ED/EFs, including the manual donor car for my EF2. I think the mounts just weren't strong enough for nuggety Australian drivers. So I welded up the cracks, here's what they looked like before:
And after. Excuse the ratty looking welds, I found it fairly difficult to weld on old, thin, dirty steel:
I don't expect this to last forever, but at some point I'll probably want a more personalised seat location so at that time I'll drill out the spot welds and remove these brackets and mount the seat brackets directly to the floor pan.
Next up I finished off removing the sound deadening from inside the car. The trouble areas on top of the plugs in the footwell where there was seam sealer, and the footwells on the forward outboard corners where it was difficult to use the dry ice method. So I went to work with the heat gun, scraper and wax and grease remover. Here's the result (sorry I forgot to take a before picture):
Before I did this I had to remove the fuel and brake hard lines, as they were in the way of some of the areas of deadening. Pretty awkward getting the lines out without damage, but it honed my plastic clip removing skills. The result is a completely bare engine bay, pretty much ready to be prepared for paint:
After this was done I stripped the valve cover from the K24 ready to paint it in a less attention grabbing hue. After a can of paint stripper, some work with a scotchbrite pad, and some masking tape it was all ready to paint:
A few coats of of VHT wrinkle black later:
The finish isn't that great, but it will serve.
Next up this week is to reassemble the motor with the new parts; 50° VTC, K20A2 oil pump, clockwise motion baffle and K20A2 sump etc. Apart from that there is some moderately serious rust in the bonnet hinge areas, so I need to cut that out, shape some small repair sections and teach myself how to do rust repairs.
More updates soon.Comment
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Good update guy! Glad to see the car is closer to living. May need to acquire some welding services in the near future!1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)
RHCP
F1 Nut
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oh wow
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Sounds good! You're beating me to modifying the K24!Comment
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Very nice Tom.....very nice...!
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You'd hope so, I had an 18 month head startOriginally posted by M@lew View Post.
Thanks boss.Originally posted by Norm View Post
I also picked up another torque wrench to help with assembling the bits onto the motor, a Warren and Brown 3/8" drive with 5-120Nm range. I've got another Warren and Brown 1/2" drive one that was a gift from my father that is still going strong 40 years after it was made (though I should really check the calibration when I am next bored at work), so I've no doubts that this one will serve me well.
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Odd jobs
It's pretty warm today, but I managed a couple of small jobs that I'd been putting off. First up here's the nearly finished result on the valve cover, after I've stripped all the masking off:
As you can see I masked off all the sealing surfaces and the bosses where the various bolts go because I hate to see all these bits painted on a valve cover. I was aiming for the cover to look nearly OEM. But black, 90s Honda style.
I can't assemble the motor yet as I'm waiting on some replacement bolts for the windage tray. OEMacuraparts managed to send me the incorrect bolts. In the meantime though I thought I'd remove and plug the K24A2 oil orifice. For the uninitiated this orifice feeds oil to the top of the flywheel end of the original K24 oil pump, for reasons unknown to me, but I'm guessing it's something to do with the balance shafts in this pump.
With the much smaller K20A2 pump this orifice would simply pump oil out of the oil gallery back into the sump, not to the bits that need it. Not ideal. So I put a screw in the orifice and then pulled it out with a pair of vice grips. In its place goes a M6x20ish mm bolt salvaged from the CL9, with a blob of Hondabond to make sure it seals.
I also removed a small block of steel from the inner side of the firewall, pictured below. The block looks to have been fitted to prevent vibration of that section of the firewall. Since NVH isn't high on my list of priorities, given that I have no firewall insulation or sound deadening, I thought I'd pull it off.
The block was held on by 4 spot welds, and after a bit of awkward work with the spot weld drill bit, off it came. I didn't weight it, but it was surprisingly hefty, around 3-400g or so. Got sick of doing work and started labelling my new tool box, thanks to Ying Bot for the loan of the labeller:
I've also been thinking of making my own front suspension cross-member and radius rods, or "traction bar" as our USDM friends call it. Mostly because I think the ones on the market are a bit crap, don't have provision to use the front jack point and look a bit on the heavy side. Here's a rough concept of what I'm going for:
I'll use the original radius rods, shortened to suit and threaded to allow adjustment with a rod end at the front end. The rest of the construction will be 4130 steel, to enable me to keep the section thicknesses small and weight down, since this crossmember is the heaviest part at the very front of the car.
More updates soon.Comment
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Thanks for the encouragement boss, I'm learning as I go tooOriginally posted by felixR View PostLearn something new every time you post Tom
Keep it up!.
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Motor Assembly
Today (after a bit of a delay due to OEMacuraparts sending me the wrong bolts) I fitted up the extra bits on the inside of the motor. I posted a rough rundown of the planned specs earlier in the thread but here they are again:
'07 K24A3
50° VTC gear
K20A2 oil pump
RBC intake manifold with Karcepts adapter and OEM K20A2 throttle body
ID 725cc injectors
ASP header
3" exhaust
3" intake
A basic setup but it should scoot along okay once I get the weight of the car and I down a little. I'll look at some power upgrades once I've done a few events and have any teething issues sorted and some baseline times set.
First up I stripped all the unnecessary bits off the motor. I'd already plugged the oil orifice in the block, so after a bit of time scraping off the old hondabond it was ready for reassembly.
I then fitted up the new K20A2 windage tray, and then the previously modified oil pump and new chain and guides. Next up was the 50° VTC timing gear, I reused all the old timing chain guides and chain along with the tensioner. OEM is best.
After everything inside was torqued down and double checked I put on the front timing cover, re-fitted various sensors and put the valve cover on with a new gasket set. On a side note, this stuff is excellent:
It's HondaBond but in an aerosol can, so you don't have to squeeze the tube and aim at the same time. After the covers were on it was time to fit up the sump, here's the Clockwise Motion baffle in the sump:
It was a bit awkward to get into position so hopefully it ended up in the right place. I have a Tractuff timing chain baffle plate also but I decided not to fit it for now. Here's the motor fully assembled:
Now I just need a car ready for the motor to go into.Comment
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Nice update Tom!
If only I had your pics 3 weeks ago
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