Has your rear ever come out?

[SPL_K]

Just out of curiosity has your rear ever came out while you were driving? I was on the way home from a mates place, after a long fatigue'd drive, and i misjudged a corner and i had to hook it a bit and the rear came out quiet a bit and gave me a scare! Has it happened to any of you?

The last thing i was expecting was a bit of oversteer and the rear coming out... i was actually expecting some understeer... o_O ?

I was running setting 6 on the rear on my BuddyClub N+ Spec but now i put it down to 4 and the front is on 5, also my tyres are mismatched from the front and rears (yokohama on the front and dunlops on the rear). I'm looking to get T1R on all 4 soon.

edit: Im also looking to get some HID's as my bulb connector is burnt out and i'd rather just upgrade to HID's instead of spending 30~50$ fixing the connector. Any recommendation on what HID kit to get? and the DIY thread for it please? I could only find the DC5R one.

[vtml]

Lift off oversteer can happen in FWD cars. I have lost count on how many times I have spun out at Sandown.

[BF]

Happens to me all the time =P.

It happens in FWD cars too. Don't worry.

[tinkerbell]

mine has come out, but only in the wet:

[tinkerbell]

DAMN i miss that car!

but seriously - i have never lost my rear end on the street...

however, i have been driving for over 15 years, and only really owned "high performance cars" in the last five years or so...

so you would expect that i could actually be able to drive....

[jlo]

I was running setting 6 on the rear on my BuddyClub N+ Spec but now i put it down to 4 and the front is on 5

I've got BC N+ too When I first put them in, mine were set at 11 from full stiff on both front and rear, with this setting the car felt to be oversteering when pushed around corners. Since then I've stiffened the fronts, 9 from full stiff I think, and its seems to handle better around corners.

Here is a great post on the subject on clubrsx, from this thread:

ok first things first, EVERYONE, please remove the idea from your head that some how the laws of Physics affect RWD differntly then FWD, because they don't. Meaning, If you increase the front spring rates on a RWD car, you increase understeer... Just like FWD. So Tuning "rules" apply exactly the same to both. you'll end up with different settings between a FWD and RWD chassis, but the physics and tuning theory are the same for both. (the different settings between FWD and RWD is primairly due to static weight distribution and power delivery)

Second thing..... Shocks AKA Dampers have NO effect on the amount of weight that a car transfers in a turn, Nor do they influence where the weight that does get transfered goes (Front or rear). they DO influence how quickly the weight gets transfered, and as such they influence mostly Transitional cornering characteristics... i.e. Corner entry and exit. meaning, if your car oversteers/understeers mid corner... thats not a damper issue, but if if oversteers/understeers on corner entry and/or exit then your dampers may need some tweaking.

On to Tuning....

Since Dampers dont alter how much weight gets transfered or where it goes (Front VS Rear) whats the point in adjusting the valving??? Well, since dampers contol the speed of weight transfer, you can tweak them to force the chassis to transfer weight faster or slower on one end of the car Vs the other. How is this usefull in tuning.... Simple. Because weight transfer esentially reduces the amount of traction a car makes and Dampers control how quicky weight gets transfered, you can Tune the dampers to force the chassis to transfer weight quicker (front or rear) and force one end of the car to lose traction quicker, thus influenceing the oversteer/understeer balance of the car. So, if the car is understeering you want to either slow the rate of weight transfer at the front of the car, and/or increase the rate of weight transfer at the rear of the car. for tuning purposes... STIFFER VALVING (both bump and rebound) = Faster weight transfer.

Esentially, you end up increasing the valving on the end of the car you want to have "stick" less, and you decrease the valving on the end you want to have "stick" more.

Now, there are some other things to think about while tuning with dampers. Primairly, Increasing the valving on the nose of the car also has the side effect of increasing the responce rate of the cars steering.... meaning it will react quicker to your steering imputs. This is why people tend to feel that stiffer valving on the nose is better, simply because it "Feels" better. The car is reacting quicker to your steering imputs... and that has to be better right? Not nessisarly. See, Just because the car is initiating turns quicker, doesnt mean its acutally able to take that turn quicker (you are dialing in more understeer afterall, and understeer is slow) and as most autocrossers and road racers know... what "feels" Fast, ushually isnt. So you end up having to comprimise between chassis responce rate, and the oversteer/understeer balance if you are trying to make the car as fast as possible on track. For the street... well, most people tune to make the car "Feel" fast (which is why some people seem to feel that stiff springs and stiff valving = good handling)

Does any of this really matter for the street... probably not, because after all, tuning the car to be a tenth or so of a second faster in a turn isnt really something that you'd be able to notice on the street. but for compitition, a tenth saved per turn.... adds up quickly over the course of the track.

hopefully that sheds some light on the Tuning with Dampers issue.

[45SET]

everynow and then. have learnt that in my DC5r you can feel it slighty come on.... when this happens i normally release the accl. pedal a tad and it corrects its self... yet to drive the car hard since i lowered the back some more.... think i am running -2' on the back... should be interesting.

[SPL_K]

well when i had my old car, my Lexus IS200, i actually was expecting the rear to slide a bit since i had tein flex on them and the rear was set to pretty stiff.

Well I havent owned my car for long and it was very unexpected. I was playing the settings last night and when it was a bit more stiff it didnt feel as responsive due to the road surface/condition. I got more feedback but it just didn't feel like the car was cornering as good.

edit: i didn't want to start another thread
Plus can anyone recommend a HID kit ?

[TeMp]

Excellent find jlo

[TAFKA TMB]

My back end has come out plenty of times and I have had about 9 “spins” (180’s) where I haven’t been able to catch it, apply enough lock in time, etc. Most of these were on the track.

[00dc2]

i've had the car sideways with the rear coming around or trying to come around maybe 10 times on the road. It has never resulted in a spin as i have always given it a bit off steering correction and the car slides a little sideways and keeps going..

happens more if i have old/crap tyres and when they are underinflated.

I had a puncture in one of my rear tyres and took this corner quickly and the whole car just slid sideways bigtime.. i knew straight away that i had a flat.

Once took a corner quickly and was feeling very lazy, was driving with only one hand and had to give it opposite steering correction which i did with the one hand that was driving. The other had was resting against the window... haha..

i once did it at high speed (maybe 90) around a corner that got tighter and tighter (i didnt know the road very well) but i kept it out of the trees but had the car sideways for quite a long while.

[SHIFTY]

Yep.... at a round-a-bout... but was only because of lift off oversteer and shitty tyres (a weird mixture of tyres lol... soon 2 be replaced in the coming week)

just had to steer through it and continue driving... lol....

just shows how important good tyres are... especially in a sports car

[AUDM DC5R]

Lift off oversteer can happen in FWD cars. I have lost count on how many times I have spun out at Sandown.

Hahah Yep!

Thats why on the track I bought a wing! Does the job. Rear tyres dont have enough weight or sometimes heat in them to grip the road properly. Hence the back can come around sometimes easy on a front wheel drive.

Our cars are set usually from factory to understeer a lot more easy then oversteering. Changing suspension will alter the way the car handles the weight around the corner and you can easily set it to oversteer without knowing, Becareful how you tune your suspension. If you dont know then see someone that does to set up your car.

[IcemaN]

Hahah Yep!

Thats why on the track I bought a wing! Does the job. Rear tyres dont have enough weight or sometimes heat in them to grip the road properly. Hence the back can come around sometimes easy on a front wheel drive.

Our cars are set usually from factory to understeer a lot more easy then oversteering. Changing suspension will alter the way the car handles the weight around the corner and you can easily set it to oversteer without knowing, Becareful how you tune your suspension. If you dont know then see someone that does to set up your car.

im not sure about the dc5R's but the dc2R's are set up to oversteer rather then understeer from my understaning.

yes its happend to me a few times, lift off understeer. first time was by far the scaries! hasnt happend since i put some nice tyres on though.

[retyped]

arrgggh this remind of the time i first had my car...showing my mate how good the handling of the DC5R is...went around and around the round-a-bout couple of times (during midnite of course) then i planting it in 2nd gear as i exit then the car did a "tokyo drift" on me countersteer missing the curb millimetres and from then on i never try anything like that again... ..scared the sh*t out of me ..my mate through it was funny.. let me tell u nothing funny.., if i actually smacked into a curb which was the height of a coke can ...