specs on torquing volk rays duralumin nuts??

[M@lew]

Torque them to factory specs and punch your friend in the groin.

Bam there's the advice of the day.

[ChargeR]

Bam there's the advice of the day.

Haha sorry if it seemed harsh, but the most important function of a wheel nut is to be torqued to the required spec. If a wheel nut won't stand up to repeated tightening to that torque then it is a crappy nut.

[aRze]

How much torque should be applied from fist to groin of said friend?

[DC2-PWR]

Like said above, the alloy ones arn't as strong as the factory ones. It's all marketing bullshit.

I bought PMU lock nuts for $220, and I expected it to be the highest quality from the PMU range. They had 20 lock studs, and one key.

Recommended torque specs for wheels is 80lbs, however my front wheels needs to be abit tighter due to brakes. So I do 85lbs with kingchrome torque wrench.

Then bam the PMU key socket twisted and cracked in the middle due to the force.

Just to say, if this happend to me on track day or in the middle of nowhere I'd be pretty much F'd because I had only got one key. New costed me $45, but I bought x2 just incase it happens again. Sigh. However with the great customer service from PMU, I got one for free.

So just be careful.

[tRipitaka]

i dun fink theres anything wrong with tracking those nuts. they are strong and lighter than steel nuts. u just have to be careful from over tightening them because thred can fck up easiler than steel

I have seen on 2 or 3 separate occasions where the Rays Aluminium nuts have threaded and ruined people's track day.

How much weight are you saving from steel nuts? A few grams?
Just take a sh!t before you track.

[rookie]

Speaking of steel nuts.
Who are some good brands who make them?

[ChargeR]

Both J's Racing and Buddy Club make a basic steel nut that would be my choice (I have the J's). Steel, relatively long, open end, 17mm hex. The perfect combination IMO. It's up to you what features you want in a nut? A basic 6 sided steel wheel nut is pretty hard to stuff up, it is just when manufacturers get fancy with materials or design that things go awry.

[aRze]

Do you still hand tighten everything ChargeR or do you impact wrench them?

Muteki's aren't too bad, have seen people on US forums use them on their time attack cars.

[teggy]

I have seen on 2 or 3 separate occasions where the Rays Aluminium nuts have threaded and ruined people's track day.

How much weight are you saving from steel nuts? A few grams?
Just take a sh!t before you track.

I've a few friends who track with alloy nuts. dont seem to be a problem unless they over tightened the alloy nuts with a pressure gun or with a breaker bar? ofcourse u can use those tools for steel nuts.

like i said, the ray nuts ive on my car can be torqued from 88 to 118N.m which is within the factory spec range. torquing beyond that will ofcourse ruin the thread.

[maracer]

had mine for years, torqued to 104........cant remember where i got this info from?
but all is still good tho

[theHKway]

80-85 ft.lbs

NEVER do it up under then the factory recommendation regardless of what nuts they are or what they are made of.

Never set them at FT (fkn tight)
you will strip nuts, x-thread studs, seize nuts or bend alloy nuts

In my store, having the wheel nuts correctly tightened is the number 1 rule!
so try to make sure your wheels are correctly done up, if in doubt, pop in and i'll tension them for you no charge

[teggy]

thanks for the replies guys, ill keep it at factory specs torque =] 80ft lb (110Nm)

[aRze]

80-85 ft.lbs

NEVER do it up under then the factory recommendation regardless of what nuts they are or what they are made of.

Never set them at FT (fkn tight)
you will strip nuts, x-thread studs, seize nuts or bend alloy nuts

In my store, having the wheel nuts correctly tightened is the number 1 rule!
so try to make sure your wheels are correctly done up, if in doubt, pop in and i'll tension them for you no charge

Just a question man, in which lug nut applications should use and not use a rattle gun?

I know it's common rattle OEM nuts on and off. Is this poor practise?

[crashprash]

i have work rc Al nuts and i torque them to 90nm. As long as u check them once a month or so you'll be fine. Never over-tighten nuts, espec using a breaker bar..worst thing you could possibly do. At the track I check it after every 2 sessions. But if you are so concerned about this..best thing is get some steel nuts for the track and Al for street/show.

[theHKway]

Just a question man, in which lug nut applications should use and not use a rattle gun?

I know it's common rattle OEM nuts on and off. Is this poor practise?

Great question!

OEM/Steel nuts are fine to gun off. You can almost go crazy with a gun when trying to remove them, but if its FT.. then use breaker bar carefully.

The gun should only be used to "zap/spin" them on. Torque wrench should be used for the "tightening" on the nuts.

Never hold the trigger down. Even cheap guns nowdays can do them up to 400+ nm within a second (very scary and poor practise!)

A impact gun should NEVER see a alloy nut of any sort, the sockets will bend/damage the nuts.

That how we do it @ TPNM but i'm sure everybody has their own technique to protect the more expensive nuts