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K24 with K20 head or JDM K20?? Help please

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    #46
    Miss_R's car with a crazy list of mods made 190-something kw atw on the Autosalon dyno. So that one came pretty close but her mod list was so long it needed a poster as tall as me.

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      #47
      Originally posted by rookie View Post
      Ah, now it makes more sense. Probably with an aggressive tune on E85 and good bolt ons?
      thanks for your reply, but i was directing the question to Benson...

      google "300hp + K24" and you'll see where the states are at with K-series...
      ... retired/

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        #48
        Tinkerbell, i wouldn't claim the engine to be a stock K24. Its been rebuilt using OEM parts only

        The car is still using conservative timing. Its just a good all rounder. Everything is working well together.

        200kw is certainly achievable with a set of aftermarket camshafts
        BYP Racing & Developments
        Sales - Performance parts - Tuning - Race Prep - Engine Builds - Gearbox Upgrade - Car Set-up - Consultancy

        Email - benny@bypracing.com
        STREET - TRACK - DRAG

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          #49
          keepin it reliable is a good motivation...

          good work & keep it up
          ... retired/

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            #50
            200 kw N/A what more could you want ..

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              #51
              Iv got my bolt ons on my type s n my dads about give up his 06 crv sport . So i can basiclly ( simple terms ) put his block in my car with my k 20 head ??

              Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

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                #52
                Crv blocks are different (from what I know). Not as good as the accord block
                Street Circuit Lifestyle - Official distributor for PasswordJDM sales@streetcircuitlifestyle.com.au

                teamGROUNDzero
                http://www.teamgroundzero.org

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                  #53
                  Oh and miss r is a k26
                  Street Circuit Lifestyle - Official distributor for PasswordJDM sales@streetcircuitlifestyle.com.au

                  teamGROUNDzero
                  http://www.teamgroundzero.org

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                    #54
                    K26? did she bore the cylinders?
                    sigpic
                    128.8kw Atws @ 1065kg - 13.875 sec @ 100.26 mph http://forum.clubitr.com.au/showthre...ion&highlight=

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                      #55
                      http://www.erlperformance.com/honda-k24-erl-superdeck-i
                      ... retired/

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                        #56
                        She stroked it. I'll try to drag Nat out to the next meeting
                        Street Circuit Lifestyle - Official distributor for PasswordJDM sales@streetcircuitlifestyle.com.au

                        teamGROUNDzero
                        http://www.teamgroundzero.org

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                          #57
                          Originally posted by 45SET View Post
                          It's not as easy as swapping the heads over, and there is a little bit of work involved.

                          The K24/20 became popular due to Honda owners in the States. In the early K-series day, the American's had access to the K20a2 (As found in their Acura RSX Type S), and they had access to the K24a2 (Out of an Acura TSX - NOTE: The US K24a2 is the same as the AUS K24a3). In the early K-Series days, the K20a2 head was far superior to the early K24a2 (Read: Aus K24a3) head, so it was a regular swap to let the K24 breath better in higher revs.

                          If you find a late model K24a3 (One from a 06-08 Accord Euro) the head design is much better then on an early model K24a3, or a K24a2 (Found in the Aus CRV). There is only slight gains in swapping the head over on these late model engines.

                          I would only really consider a K24/20 for the following reasons:
                          - You only have access to a K24 bottom end
                          - You can only buy a early K24a3, or a K24a2 (Even if you got a K24a2, you would want to basically only use it for the 2.4L block, as all the internals aren't suitable for high revs)

                          Otherwise I would save the time and hassle and get a late model K24a3 and do the following to the engine:
                          - 50’ VTC
                          - K20 oil pump – Along with hardware to have it fit
                          Everything else (ie Bolt ons) is up to you.

                          I’ve got a 08 K24a3 in my DC5R, and I’m running:
                          - Internally stock
                          - 50’ VTC
                          - Kpro – Tuned by Adrian at Toda Australia
                          - K20 Oil pump
                          - J’s racing baffled sump
                          - Skunk2 70mm Throttle body
                          - Bored and honed RBC intake manifold
                          - Toda headers
                          - 100 cell cat
                          - 3’ cat back

                          The car makes 156kw and a BUCKET load of torque (A few members on here have driven it, and can attest to this). It safely revs to 7,500RPM (Limiter set to 7,800RPM).

                          So... to answer your original question

                          +06K24a3 > K24/20 > JDM K20a

                          And that's based on the fact that a K24a3 can be dropped directly into a DC5R without even touching it, and it's more hassle free then the K24/20.

                          Just sayin’…
                          +1
                          this guy know what hes talking about. Why spend budget $10k on a frank swap, when you get budget for $5000-$7000 on a straight k24 swap. Plus you get the added benefit of keeping your k20 or you can sell it.

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                            #58
                            I have to agree with these guys. The later model k24 heads are a decent base. I don't understand why you would have a k20 head and replace cams, springs and such when if you do that to a late model k24 head you would have very similar gains. Plus a port and polish is not that much once the head is stripped.

                            I never understood this back in the b series day. B18c2 was not much difference to b18c7 once you did cams and springs, port, polish etc and you end up with more power from the vtir b18 for prob less than a jdm b18
                            Street Circuit Lifestyle - Official distributor for PasswordJDM sales@streetcircuitlifestyle.com.au

                            teamGROUNDzero
                            http://www.teamgroundzero.org

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                              #59
                              I think it's cause the builders that offer the swap(not every garage) can make more cash by spreading misinformation about a k20/24 frank swap as the bee's knee's.

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                                #60
                                Originally posted by 45SET View Post
                                This is why I like this forum, people back up there claims.

                                Benson (And the rest of the BYP guys) are a great asset to this forum.
                                ^ 100% agree with this ^

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