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Must have Mods for New DC5R :D :D

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    Must have Mods for New DC5R :D :D

    Hey guys,

    So on the Dc5r is on it's way, and now its time to start my mods.

    Rolling completely stock I wanna do some stuff. Over time everything will be done, but for now, what are the first mods I should do based on time, cost, money and effect.

    Just some examples of mods include coilovers, wheels, exhaust etc

    If possible, leave me some details on prices, brands and models.

    Everything is appreciated, cheers

    Napz
    1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
    1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
    2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

    RHCP
    F1 Nut

    #2
    Injen CAI =P

    you can get them new for $400~

    but i reckon there's no point getting em new... buy a used one for like $250~ and it'll be fine!! (Just make sure the filter is clean and/or replaced before installing! )

    I think there is a seller on this forum!


    From what i've been told and experienced...

    - Injen is an American brand
    - Very popular
    - Massive sound improvement especially when vtec engages =P
    - Mid - High RPM gains?
    - Definitely a bang for buck mod!!



    The other alternative is GruppeM which is a really really good mod if you can afford it !!
    They go for around double the price of Injen.. but it gives you a very nice engine bay bling =P

    Comment


      #3
      Injen CAI is pretty cool and $400 is overpriced, get them on ebay I had mine delivered for under $300.

      I'd strongly recommend engine mounts. The stock engine mounts are piss weak and will more than likely split with any power mods, geez, they split with stock power. I've gone with Hardrace engine mounts as they were cheap, stiff, but not so stiff that they rattle your teeth out like 60a/75a. JDMyard have them for around $480 but they can be had online for around $400 from the states. They are good quality mounts for shizzle.
      If you're after power I'd consider reading this thread, super informative.

      http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-%96-DC5R-mods

      Comment


        #4
        Camber bolt and front LCA bearing to increase castor is what I consider must have
        Other than that it would be ds2500 break pad and ku36 or semi slick tyres will make a DC very fast around corners.

        Comment


          #5
          thanks guy, yee CAI was on my to do list, how are the laws regarding mods on Ps like that in victoria tho?

          and what exaclty are engine mounts, like benefits and also installation?
          1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
          1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
          2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

          RHCP
          F1 Nut

          Comment


            #6
            Napz, is this DC5R a street car or are you building it to race?

            Comment


              #7
              Enjoy it stock for a while!

              Quote:
              Originally Posted by justinfox
              You can modify many crappy cars out there to be faster than a real Type-R but no matter how fast they are they still don't knock the Type-R off it's "pedestal" which it so deservedly sits on. :P

              JHDM-B18C7 >>>>> Source Code: DC2R 00-0016 SOLD


              Comment


                #8
                well its a street car mainly, but i suppose il track race it a bit, hwoever i have a wrx for that with AWD
                1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
                1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
                2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

                RHCP
                F1 Nut

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by dnapol View Post
                  well its a street car mainly, but i suppose il track race it a bit, hwoever i have a wrx for that with AWD
                  WRX Booo!

                  Honeslty a standard DC5R is a great car, i would also enjoy it stock for a while, not sure how much money a 17 year old that already has a WRX has to throw around on it though

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by dnapol View Post
                    and what exaclty are engine mounts, like benefits and also installation?
                    engine mounts well.... errrr.... they hold your engine....
                    there's four engine mounts to each car, one on the passenger side, drivers side, front and rear. The upside of having stiffer engine mounts is that the engine doesn't move around in the bay, thus, during acceleration, there is no energy lost from engine movement, the power goes straight to the wheels. In addition to this, stiffer engine mounts have been told to provide less wheel hop under hard acceleration. The downside (if you'd even call it that) is that the car vibrates more, however, this depends on how hard you go with engine mounts. Engine mounts can range from 60a all the way upto 80a I think (maybe even harder.) The higher the number, the stiffer they are.
                    If you're after the benefits of engine mounts yet don't want to deal with the super shaky effect, something like 'hardrace' or 'mugen' engine mounts are in in between feel of stock and 60a. They are noticeably stiffer and do vibrate more, and having the hardrace in my car, I don't see the vibration as a negative aspect. It actually adds to the racey feel.
                    I can honestly say the engine mounts are up there with my favourite mods. It makes the car feel very solid overall. I found the difference in acceleration noticeable when I went from stock to hardrace. Having said that, before I changed, I had a split front and rear engine mount (and this was with stock engine no power mods).
                    The dc5r's are renowned for crappy engine mounts, I would replace them in preparation for more power.
                    Installation is gay, you need an engine hoist. Takes a few hours for a mech to do it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I agree 100% with Peachy. Aftermarket mounts are probably one of the better mods to get when starting off and even more so if you plan to track. The one and only downside is the slight increase in vibration (for the 60a). But the advantages and improvement definitely outweighs that con.*

                      Innovative 60a mounts from the States are 280-290 bucks including delivery on eBay.*

                      And like everyone else suggested, intake! It's cheap and makes your vtecyo alot more noticeable.*

                      Injen cai are like 300ish on US eBay. Though of course they are subjected to hydrolocking your car, unless you get a short ram.*Another alternative is gruppe m, if your baller.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Wow guys, thanks soouch for writing such informative stuff engine mounts will defiantly be on the cards now does every average joe garage have the capability or knowledge to install??
                        1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
                        1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
                        2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

                        RHCP
                        F1 Nut

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Go mounts... Get a cai to heat vtec... U pretty much set. Tracl it. Get suspension done
                          Integra Type R
                          Integra Type S
                          S2000

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Peachy View Post
                            to provide less wheel hop under hard acceleration.
                            What do you mean by this exactly?
                            S2000
                            WSID : TBA
                            Wakefield : 1:10.1

                            Flippit Photography
                            Smooth As Detailing
                            Incar Racing

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Flippit View Post
                              What do you mean by this exactly?
                              next time you are in the wet, go all the way through first and second, you will feel the front wheel "hopping" up and down through high revs losing traction. This is due mostly to the soft OEM mounts allowing the motor and transmssion assembly to rotate, stiff mounts get rid of 90% of this movemnt

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