Lots of good advice in here, just remember to think carefully firstly on what you want from the car and then secondly on what parts will suit your use and budget. I agree that engine mounts are nearly essential, the stock mounts will fail and a good aftermarket mount will really improve the driving experience.
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Must have Mods for New DC5R :D :D
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Originally posted by stevan View Postnext time you are in the wet, go all the way through first and second, you will feel the front wheel "hopping" up and down through high revs losing traction. This is due mostly to the soft OEM mounts allowing the motor and transmssion assembly to rotate, stiff mounts get rid of 90% of this movemnt
Defs getting mounts then from all the good feedback i've heard from them!
Group buy yo!
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Here are some mods I've done to my car which I felt have been great!
- Engine mounts - I have inserts, have worked great
- Tyres - Good compound and size - I run Dunlop Duranza Z1 Starspecs at the moment, and have run Kuhmo KU36's in the past
- Rims - Anything along the lines of 17x8 +35 through to a 17x9 +30. I've run 17x8 +35 in the past, and found them to be very responsive. I run 17x9 +22 at the moment, and find that they are more form over function. I feel a 17x9 +30 would be perfect.
- Coil overs - I've run Tein SS and Ohlins DFV's. Ohlins win hands down... but are twice the price of the Teins, which I still felt were great
- Sway bars - I run 24mm front and rear, made the car that little bit stiffer/firm/planted after the coilovers
- WHEEL ALIGNMENT! - Obviously you can't really change much unless you have adjustable suspension components. But, find a shop that you trust and are happy with, and stick with them. I have a shop in Brisbane I always go to. They know the car back to front now, and offer advice on parts I should look into to fix little issues I have (Even if they don't stock the parts)
- Intake - I've run K&N Typhoon (Crap) and Mugen (Good). If you can, I would look into the Gruppe M or Injen. Mugen is good, but the gains are more so in the bottom end
- Catback back exhaust - Basic really. The more you rev the car, the more petrol you burn, the more gas the engine produces, the bigger the pipe needs to be for the exhaust gas to escape. I run Mugen Twin loop. I love the sound it makes... soon to be changing to custom stainless 3'.
- Headers - VERY IMPORTANT!! Do plenty of research, and don't cheap out on these. Toda get rave reviews, and are worth every penny, but need after market sway bars to fit (2 birds, 1 stone?). Kid racing make a header that doesn't require the after market sway bar, and have also received good reviews.
- HD Clutch and lite weight flywheel - Great mod, makes the car feel a little more raw, and the flywheel does actually change the engine, as it revs a lot quicker. Only down side I can see to this is the 8 hours it takes to fit, and dropping the entire passenger side of the sub frame (So 8 hours of labour if you have your mechanic do the work).
- Aftermarket ECU - I run K-Pro, and I was amazed with the change in the car... then I got a tune! Down side... all up including tuning, you are looking at over $2,500 just for this (Less if you are lucky and find a 2nd hand item and a cheap tune).
- Good brake pads - You'll be amazed what a good set of pads does... such as getting rid of the VERY touchy ABS feature of the DC5R
- K24 - I'll update you about this shortly...
Umm... I think that's it for now...
Obviously to cut down on costs doing some mods at the same time is a good idea... such as getting rims and tyres at the same time.
Have fun with the DC5R, they are a great car, and very rewarding!
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fuck cheers for all that bro, helps heaps.
HD clutch is already on the car im looking at so should be sweet. I was thinking in this order
Mounts
Intake
Exhaust
Wheels
(speakers will be first as I have the sub and amp now as a gift )1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)
RHCP
F1 Nut
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Originally posted by dnapol View Postfuck cheers for all that bro, helps heaps.
HD clutch is already on the car im looking at so should be sweet. I was thinking in this order
Mounts
Intake
Exhaust
Wheels
(speakers will be first as I have the sub and amp now as a gift )
There is PLENTY of info on this forum (and others), so you should basically be able to make decisions off the information you find on the internet.
Find out if the flywheel was also changed at the same time as the clutch, no brainer really to change both at the same time.
If I could do it all again, I would do it in this order:
- Mounts
- Coilovers
- Sway bars
- Rims/Tyres
- Intake
- Exhaust
Once you get some nice rims and low, the DC5R is a great looking car... and also gives you a much better performance gain over intake and exhaust.
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Originally posted by stevan View Postnext time you are in the wet, go all the way through first and second, you will feel the front wheel "hopping" up and down through high revs losing traction. This is due mostly to the soft OEM mounts allowing the motor and transmssion assembly to rotate, stiff mounts get rid of 90% of this movemnt
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okay, i think iv worked out my order.
first off is speakers as i get the car 6 months before Ps, so ill do that then.
intake
exhaust
coilovers
wheels
tie rod (beaks
rear sway
front strut
mounts
mounts are only last cos i dont know when to do them1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)
RHCP
F1 Nut
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