camber + aggressive offsets + wide wheels = shit in straight line...which lets face it is most of your driving on the streets...we're not on the track everyday...which is exactly the reason im selling my wheels...
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Originally posted by 03DC5R View Postcamber + aggressive offsets + wide wheels = shit in straight line...which lets face it is most of your driving on the streets...we're not on the track everyday...which is exactly the reason im selling my wheels...
anyways i vote more camber on the front volks and a lil more low and it will look epic, my 2c
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Originally posted by m0nty View PostWhy? Increasing camber helps with turn in and cornering grip. Only in extreme cases (> -3 degrees) will the car be a little tricky to drive in a straight line. Wider wheels have a greater effect than more camber.
I've found that the rear end feels like it starts to step out around long corners. This was with my Weds (17x8 +35), but haven't had a chance to take a corner fast with the Volks.
I'm all for having more camber in the front, and I know it's advantages, but I was under the impression that having heaps of camber (> -3') all round would make the rear end a little floaty.
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Originally posted by 03DC5R View Postcamber + aggressive offsets + wide wheels = shit in straight line...which lets face it is most of your driving on the streets...we're not on the track everyday...which is exactly the reason im selling my wheels...
-1.5 to -2.5 should be fine for the street. if you're worried, try driving a mates car with some camber and see how it feels to you. More camber on the rear wheels to me would make it understeer more. I personally don't get this feeling of floatyness but it is possible that I just havent taken any notice.
Another suggestion might be to get todds (crsx) upper mounts and add some castor and slightly reduce camber to -2.sigpicCurrent holder of the Win folder.
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The car is understeering during the corner. Not so much in tight corners, just long sweeping corners, were I sometimes tend to make small adjustments to the steering during the corner, and I can feel the back end of the car moving.
As for lowering the rear camber, with the current 225/45's, my finger can barely fit between the tyre and the guard at the moment, so that is out of the question.
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Originally posted by Didz View PostStraight line IMO, is only relevant to drag strips. Driving on the street includes lot's of turning.
-1.5 to -2.5 should be fine for the street.Last edited by 03DC5R; 04-11-10, 05:43 PM.183.2KW ATWBUILT BY DR HONDA
Tuned by INSIGHT MOTORSPORT
12.44@109.9mph
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You have to cut the parts off, then plastic weld over where they joined. Fairly basic really. If you took it to a panel better then would be able to do it.
While I'm here... I might update this.
So the current parts are sitting, waited to be fitted:
- K24a3 (07 Accord Euro, with 40k km)
- Todds adjustable tie rods
The following parts are being shipped:
- Hondata Intake manifold gasket
- RBC intake manifold
- Karcepts 70mm TB adapter
- RBC intake manifold gasket
- Skunk2 70mm throttle body
The following parts are on the to buy list before I fit the above:
- 50' VTC
- Hasport mounts... not sure what stiffness yet
Following parts are in the 'wish list' (if money permits):
- 330mm Wilwood 4pot brake kit - Front
- Intake cam out of a K20a/a2 - Still investigating if this is a worth while mod. The exhaust cam on the K24 is more aggressive then the k20 one, but the k20 intake cam is more aggressive.
I'll be fitting everything with some friends, so should be fun. Hopefully Adrian is coming up shortly to do some tuning.
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Originally posted by 45SET View Post- Hondata Intake manifold gasket
- RBC intake manifold
- Karcepts 70mm TB adapter
- RBC intake manifold gasket
- Skunk2 70mm throttle body
- Hasport mounts... not sure what stiffness yet
- 330mm Wilwood 4pot brake kit - Front
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Hmm sound like similar mods to me.
Shame im not K24.
Im guessing all part were bought from USA?
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Could it be the same k24 i took up to QLD a few months ago :P
Cam wise - If you daily often ill stick with the EURO camshaft intake and exhaust. If you want to upgrade the intake cam the best cam to get is the k20Z or JDMk20a intake cam.
50vtc works well, maximum i ever tune them too 40VTC to keep it safe. People have went up too 45 vtc but for the sake of 1-3 kw extra midrange it aint worth the risk of piston/valve contact.BYP Racing & Developments
Built. Tuned. Driven
Want to go fast? Come see us! e: jimmy@bypracing.com ph: (02) 9757 4757
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Originally posted by fatboyz39 View PostCould it be the same k24 i took up to QLD a few months ago :P
Cam wise - If you daily often ill stick with the EURO camshaft intake and exhaust. If you want to upgrade the intake cam the best cam to get is the k20Z or JDMk20a intake cam.
50vtc works well, maximum i ever tune them too 40VTC to keep it safe. People have went up too 45 vtc but for the sake of 1-3 kw extra midrange it aint worth the risk of piston/valve contact.
Well the car isn't driven daily... mostly for weekends, so I'll start to look into the intake cam side of things.
After talking to Jason & Glenn, they said the same thing... and I've found that most people that are running the 50VTC on there K24's are doing the same.
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