Figured i would update on the brake situation
After my last track day resulted in cooked brakes I knew I had to upgrade them (up until now I've been using OEM everything). I started collecting parts to do a full upgrade and after buying the last piece at the JDMYARD eoym/sale I was finally ready to do so. Being the end of the year I decided to buy a whole batch of new oils/fluids and do a full fluid change to get the car ready for a new year of trackdays.
The parts list:
Rda 300mm blank front rotors
Rda 282mm blank rear rotors
Project mu hc+800 front/rear pads
HEL stainless braided brake lines
APR brake duct kit Penrite
5w-40 engine oil
Hamp oil filter
Amsoil mtf synchromesh trans oil
Amsoil severe gear 75w110 diff oil
Ate super blue dot 4 brake fluid
The Christmas/New Years period provided me with time off work and an opportunity to do the upgrade. Also being a police blitz period meant that the car wouldn't have been used anyway. So up it went on stands and it stayed this way for most of the holiday period.
I started on the rear and off came the wheels, calipers, old pads, rotors and finally the rubber brake lines. New braided HEL lines were fitted. I chose the HEL lines as they're made in Australia so they're ADR approved. One less thing I can get in trouble for. Next the new RDA rotors were fitted. As were the project mu pads. I took this opportunity to freshen up the calipers and gave them a good clean and a fresh coat of flat black paint. One last job was to heat wrap my suspension bushings. Heat wrapping the rubber bushing helps protect them from the heat of the brakes stopping premature wear.
Rear end all together
Now onto the front. Same process here. Wheels, calipers and rotors off. Stock brake line pulled out and replaced with a HEL braided item. With the whole front brake set up pulled off I again freshened up the front calipers with a clean and coat of flat black paint.
I also had the god awful task of removing the oem brake shield to fit the APR carbon replacement. 3 little Phillips head screws hold this piece on. Only problem is all of them are seized and the hub is in the way -___-
Easy way is to remove the hub but this means having to replace wheel bearings etc. Expensive exercise of your wheel bearings are fine (mine were/are). I ended up grinding off the end of a Phillips head screwdriver and using vice grips. Copious amounts of wd40 were also used. After that all you need to do is cut through the thinnest part of the shield and bend till it slides off the replace it with the APR version.
APR backing plate installed
After that was completed I fitted the new RDA rotors and project mu pads.
It was now time to run the ducting for the brake kit. Fiddled around for a while to get the best positioning to avoid rubbing. I also had to cut the guard lining to accommodate the ducting. As I'm not using my voltex front bumper yet I ran the ducts to the ap1 bumper front opening to avoid having to cut the bumper. There is a slight rub in one section on full lock but this is unavoidable as the ducting is 3inch. Just have to be aware of this when driving normally as I won't be hitting full lock on the racetrack.
Again finished it off by heat wrapping the front bushings.
Front end all together
Peak-a-boo
Finished the weekend by swapping all the fluids out for fresh new ones and using the gravity bleed method to bleed the new brakes in as well as the clutch.
We're now ready for the track days coming up this year!
After my last track day resulted in cooked brakes I knew I had to upgrade them (up until now I've been using OEM everything). I started collecting parts to do a full upgrade and after buying the last piece at the JDMYARD eoym/sale I was finally ready to do so. Being the end of the year I decided to buy a whole batch of new oils/fluids and do a full fluid change to get the car ready for a new year of trackdays.
The parts list:
Rda 300mm blank front rotors
Rda 282mm blank rear rotors
Project mu hc+800 front/rear pads
HEL stainless braided brake lines
APR brake duct kit Penrite
5w-40 engine oil
Hamp oil filter
Amsoil mtf synchromesh trans oil
Amsoil severe gear 75w110 diff oil
Ate super blue dot 4 brake fluid
The Christmas/New Years period provided me with time off work and an opportunity to do the upgrade. Also being a police blitz period meant that the car wouldn't have been used anyway. So up it went on stands and it stayed this way for most of the holiday period.
I started on the rear and off came the wheels, calipers, old pads, rotors and finally the rubber brake lines. New braided HEL lines were fitted. I chose the HEL lines as they're made in Australia so they're ADR approved. One less thing I can get in trouble for. Next the new RDA rotors were fitted. As were the project mu pads. I took this opportunity to freshen up the calipers and gave them a good clean and a fresh coat of flat black paint. One last job was to heat wrap my suspension bushings. Heat wrapping the rubber bushing helps protect them from the heat of the brakes stopping premature wear.
Rear end all together
Now onto the front. Same process here. Wheels, calipers and rotors off. Stock brake line pulled out and replaced with a HEL braided item. With the whole front brake set up pulled off I again freshened up the front calipers with a clean and coat of flat black paint.
I also had the god awful task of removing the oem brake shield to fit the APR carbon replacement. 3 little Phillips head screws hold this piece on. Only problem is all of them are seized and the hub is in the way -___-
Easy way is to remove the hub but this means having to replace wheel bearings etc. Expensive exercise of your wheel bearings are fine (mine were/are). I ended up grinding off the end of a Phillips head screwdriver and using vice grips. Copious amounts of wd40 were also used. After that all you need to do is cut through the thinnest part of the shield and bend till it slides off the replace it with the APR version.
APR backing plate installed
After that was completed I fitted the new RDA rotors and project mu pads.
It was now time to run the ducting for the brake kit. Fiddled around for a while to get the best positioning to avoid rubbing. I also had to cut the guard lining to accommodate the ducting. As I'm not using my voltex front bumper yet I ran the ducts to the ap1 bumper front opening to avoid having to cut the bumper. There is a slight rub in one section on full lock but this is unavoidable as the ducting is 3inch. Just have to be aware of this when driving normally as I won't be hitting full lock on the racetrack.
Again finished it off by heat wrapping the front bushings.
Front end all together
Peak-a-boo
Finished the weekend by swapping all the fluids out for fresh new ones and using the gravity bleed method to bleed the new brakes in as well as the clutch.
We're now ready for the track days coming up this year!
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