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Like the Hard Race Camber arms, you made the better choice with brands there. Some of the other ones are tacky as but hardrace build them very very strong
1995 Honda Civic EG (K20) 1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20) 2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)
Hey Carl if you can't wait to get your car tuned to get rid of the CEL, try this defouler: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=290749221847
I had my Toda header and cat installed recently too and I bought this defouler and it prevented the CEL from showing it's annoying face. It'll give you a few extra centimetres to play with also, it was enough for my secondary o2 sensor to reach it.
Like the Hard Race Camber arms, you made the better choice with brands there. Some of the other ones are tacky as but hardrace build them very very strong
Hey Carl if you can't wait to get your car tuned to get rid of the CEL, try this defouler: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=290749221847
I had my Toda header and cat installed recently too and I bought this defouler and it prevented the CEL from showing it's annoying face. It'll give you a few extra centimetres to play with also, it was enough for my secondary o2 sensor to reach it.
Thanks for this mate, i definitely will look into getting one after my O2 Extender harness arrives from the U.S, if it doesn't go away then, which im sure it won't, then a defouler will be on the way and I'll go with the one you suggested so thank you very much.
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Update time.......
My good trusty mate who has alot of experience in panel beating, spray painting and some mechanical work came around and gave me a hand today...
Goals were,
Hardrace Rear Camber Arms Installed, Wheel alignment and NRG Harness Bar Installed...
Started the day by going to Cragieburn to pick him up and back to my house we came..
Jacked the car up, removed the wheels, pulled the old camber arms off and in went the new Hardrace arms which were matched up to the OEM ones....
I then made a call to Typepower North Melbourne about getting a wheel alignment and i was in luck, i had to be there before 1.15pm to make sure it could be done as they closed at 2pm.... We assembled the car back together wheels back, tools packed...
Rushed to Tyrepower down the freeway and the car went in for it's wheel alignment...
Me and my mate Serks were kinda expecting my rear camber at about -3 due to the install but surprisingly This wasn't the case
Anyway, Chris fixed up the camber to -1.5 degree on both sides but pointed out the right tyre was sticking out more then the left hand side... Looked completely strange even though the alignment machine said it was -1.5...
Since i wanted the wheels to look similar, i asked Chris to put -2 on the right, -1.5 on the left and this has corrected the 'funny' look.... Not sure what's caused this so i think some investigation is definitely needed.....
Very happy with the boys quality of work, i left a very happy man and got back home to begin installing the NRG 47' Harness bar...
Goal of this item was to remove the slack in the harness and also correct the angle of the harness to make it safer in the event of a crash...
Seats came out....
We followed a guide from TypeSpaz off ClubRSX but this is where we had an issue... He had the cusco b-pillar and harness bar....
I had the beatrush floorbar aswell so mounting to the bottom seatbelt point was going to be interesting....
We ended up having to use one of the NRG bolts to replace the OEM seatbelt bolt due the OEM bolt not fitting through the 'eye' (Refer to photo below)
As you can see there is a different bolt... Due to it being completely slim and slightly longer, it fitted perfectly through the 'eye'....
Other issues we ran into were the bloody spacers between the chassis and bolt, kept on falling through to the bottom of the car... Ended up using loctite and gluing them in place... Suckers can't move no more (No photos of this procedure)
We then tighten up all necessary bolts, rebolted the seats, i really did enjoy the NRG design as the suspended arms that tie down to the bottom seatbelt bolt use nylon lock nuts to bolt to the top arm so it's very unlikely they can come loose...
That's about it guys, yes this also renders my backseats useless to others which is perfect.. Never really enjoyed taking backseat passengers to be honest so im planning to get another harness for the passenger....
Got some parts now currently on order;
J's Racing Fender Bars
J's Racing Roll Centre Adjusters
J's Racing Direct Clutch Line
OEM o2 Extender Harness
Also have a custom Brace in design process..
Will bolt to the Top Seatbelt point then back to the c-pillar bolt then cross down in the boot most likely in a X formation or in a parallel form with a mid-bar. (This may go into a mini-production depending on cost and seeing who's interested)
To anyone who's about to say that i should buy a cage, i've thought about it and i've decided no, if i get a cage, it will be a full cage, welded with no expense left behind so until then this will do.
That's it for now..
Thanks for reading.
Also, wanting to say a special thanks to JDM Accessories for all these goodies in this update, thank you very much Marcus.
I don't think your supposed to wrap the harness around the bar like that
It's perfectly fine like that, spoke to the owner of GMP Racing Products and i've been told that it's perfect fine and useable like that.. I've worn it on the street and it's perfectly tight and snug... There's very little if any movement at all in the harness so im happy with it being the way it is...
If it is incorrect and it's proven to be so, i will adjust it accoringly of course but i'll search for my own answers first but i think it'll be right =)
Just remember, the harness bar isn't there to take all the pressure, it's only to correct the angle of the harness to make it horizontal.
You mentioned "Me and my mate Serks were kinda expecting my rear camber at about -3 due to the install but surprisingly This wasn't the case
Anyway, Chris fixed up the camber to -1.5 degree on both sides but pointed out the right tyre was sticking out more then the left hand side... Looked completely strange even though the alignment machine said it was -1.5...
Since i wanted the wheels to look similar, i asked Chris to put -2 on the right, -1.5 on the left and this has corrected the 'funny' look.... Not sure what's caused this so i think some investigation is definitely needed....."
Just wondering, when you installed your coilovers, did you measure the actual ground to chasis height or your individual coil over height? I know for a fact, the chasis of the DC5 is not perfect all round and a difference of ground to chasis height on one side is not uncommon to contribute to your difference in camber setting. Possibly something to look into. I know those from experience as I adjusted the height of my coilovers to the same specifications and the car was still at different heights post adjustment.
Coilovers set on same height all round it leaned to one side and had more camber. This is because the upper bolt area for the coilover was slightly raised from the chassis. Check yuor rebound at a professional allignment place. Should be able to tell you if it was adjusted the wrong way
1995 Honda Civic EG (K20) 1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20) 2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)
Are there signs showing that it's not? I know there're pages out there dedicated to comparing fake and genuine Takata harnesses, but wouldn't think you would be able to discern from those pictures alone.
+1 to the above two posts too. Same thing happened on my EP3. Rear coilover heights are 1-2cm different.
You mentioned "Me and my mate Serks were kinda expecting my rear camber at about -3 due to the install but surprisingly This wasn't the case
Anyway, Chris fixed up the camber to -1.5 degree on both sides but pointed out the right tyre was sticking out more then the left hand side... Looked completely strange even though the alignment machine said it was -1.5...
Since i wanted the wheels to look similar, i asked Chris to put -2 on the right, -1.5 on the left and this has corrected the 'funny' look.... Not sure what's caused this so i think some investigation is definitely needed....."
Just wondering, when you installed your coilovers, did you measure the actual ground to chasis height or your individual coil over height? I know for a fact, the chasis of the DC5 is not perfect all round and a difference of ground to chasis height on one side is not uncommon to contribute to your difference in camber setting. Possibly something to look into. I know those from experience as I adjusted the height of my coilovers to the same specifications and the car was still at different heights post adjustment.
Norm
This could explain alot Norm, thanks for pointing this out, i haven't had the height adjusted correctly, i had a temporary height done at a mates workshop for my worse track day to minimize Tyre rubbing...
I didn't install the coilovers, i had them done at Suspension City and it have the utmost trust in there work.
Thanks for your comment, i'll definitely look into what you suggested.
But then again it doesn't really explain what i saw that day.. The camber on the machine said -1.5, but if you stood back from a distance of 5metres, you could definately notice the right wheel didn't sit exactly the same as the left.... I will look into what you said but camber arms are mean't to correct this issue (I understand that the lower the DC5 gets, the more 'natural' camber it gains but once you have aftermarket arms this can't occur no longer correct?
Coilovers set on same height all round it leaned to one side and had more camber. This is because the upper bolt area for the coilover was slightly raised from the chassis. Check yuor rebound at a professional allignment place. Should be able to tell you if it was adjusted the wrong way
I trust Tyre Power North Melbourne in there alignment work, it wasn't them who installed the coilovers and they've never adjusted the height on my DC5 so i think i'll be getting this looked into first.
Are there signs showing that it's not? I know there're pages out there dedicated to comparing fake and genuine Takata harnesses, but wouldn't think you would be able to discern from those pictures alone.
+1 to the above two posts too. Same thing happened on my EP3. Rear coilover heights are 1-2cm different.
It's a replica Harness, couldn't really pass it up for the price i saw it for, it works, it does it's job but that doesn't say i completely trust it...
I'll be purchasing a new harness towards the end of the year.
I think some people just like to point out a flaw for some unknown reason, yet i've never said it was genuine nor said it was a replica..
Are there signs showing that it's not? I know there're pages out there dedicated to comparing fake and genuine Takata harnesses, but wouldn't think you would be able to discern from those pictures alone.
Lol I could tell from photos just like Alex.
Carl it's better to do it as Eddie shows I would think as the harness isn't binding on itself onto the harness bar as it is under tension.
Carl, i only asked as i seen a few pol selling takata harness's with that racing corpoaration printed on them and are regarding as genuine. I thought maybe takata changed their logo... Wasnt pointing out a flaw n dont care if u run fakes or the real deal.
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