B-Pipe Resonator Power

[M@lew]

With the upcoming EXE track day, I was thinking about changing my exhaust and being one of the cool kids out there, since when compared to most cars my Power Getter is damn quiet.

8 Seconds - My mates EP3 with GruppeM, Mugen Headers, J's 60RS Exhaust

12 Seconds - Me with GruppeM, Toda headers, Power Getter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qonc-UJ1fIQ

After contemplating selling my set and getting m0nty's J's kit mainly due to my car still needing to be daily, I was thinking about making a custom exhaust at my mech, who made one for my friends built Spoon engine CRX, meaning I'll keep my Power Getter for daily and use this for track. This was a good idea because my car is still tuned for my old exhaust, the free flowing Buddy Club Spec 3.

I have 2 options, straight pipe from my Fujitsubo b-pipe or full straight from the cat. Despite what I said in the first paragraph, the aim of this is flow for track because if I wanted more noise only I'd just get a louder muffler, like the Spoon N1 or J's 60RS in the future.

Since the resonator in my b-pipe looks like this:



As opposed to the almost non-existent one in the Spec 3:



would the fatter muffler affect heaps of flow? The main question being, is it worth going straight from the cat or just go straight from the b-pipe? Or not even bothering at all? (Or does someone want to sell me a Spec 3 for cheap )

[DC2-PWR]

You'll love the spec 3 on DC5R they sound unbelivable.

It's also not always the products that tell low times it's mainly the driver, and how the car is being kept.

And with a new exhaust you wont feel much of a difference. Thats .3 or maybe .4 minus from your orignial time. Who knows, maybe they wont be a difference.

[M@lew]

Yeah overall it's the driver, but I guess I was just wondering if the resonator in the b-pipe does anything, which is pretty much the question for my long ass post. I read that Mike / DNYALL on Ozhonda had his resonator falling apart and he lost a lot of power.

I had it at Dyno day where it only managed to put down 96kw's atw?????????? WTF built b20 with ITBS = 96kw atw... something was wrong.

Later

Took it back to AK and after some fault finding, turned out the two baffles in the B-Pipe (1 year old 5Zigen B-Pipe, bought brand new by the way) were completely collapsed. I had an EG custom stainless straight through system cut and welded to fit as well as having the cat deleted completely. Put it on the dyno again and put down 125.9kws atw. Much better

[tk38]

Put it this way... I change from stock Type S to 60RS, no difference in power feels.
Took the 60RS off, no loss of power felt.
On the other hand, friends STi, HKS exhaust. DAMN! power bump of turbo =)

But basically unless you are getting tune and opening up the engine, you wont get much at all even with a straight pipe. Might feel sportier with all the vibrations and sound.

[M@lew]

my car is still tuned for my old exhaust

But it is tuned. (In theory)

[RDC-2™]

have u considered getting a straight pipe made up for track just to replace the Bpipe section while retaining the Fujisubo muffler?
it'll delete the resonator, so one less restriction and will also be a bit louder

if you are still not satisfied after that then get the bigger inner diameter muffler

[tk38]

lol just don't bother running axel back, run a mid pipe that exits the side

[BlkR]

but the Buddyclub spec 3... although cant feel the power it actually does put away against a stock dc5r...

[M@lew]

have u considered getting a straight pipe made up for track just to replace the Bpipe section while retaining the Fujisubo muffler?
it'll delete the resonator, so one less restriction and will also be a bit louder

if you are still not satisfied after that then get the bigger inner diameter muffler

Yeah I was thinking that too, but if I make that I might was well add a few extra pieces of piping and do the full exhaust.

lol just don't bother running axel back, run a mid pipe that exits the side

Just had the car on the hoist and had a look, it's do-able but I want it on the left like the 999 DC5 but I can't seem to find anywhere to mount it without drilling the chassis. (Was thinking of inserting a bolt somewhere but doesn't look to be many easy places)