DC2R font speakers cabling factory mistake

[00dc2]

I have been installing new speakers in the front of my car.

The reason i was doing this is that the left front had started making strange noises when playing lots of bass loud, while the right was fine. And then later i noticed that it was not playing anywhere near as loud as the right one.

So i installed my new hertz HCX165's and what do you know the left still plays much quieter than the right. WTF

After contemplating runnng new cables from the HU to the speaker (dont wanna do that!) i thought maybe the connector wires have been flipped. I flipped them and it started playing ok.

Now, i forgot to try to the stock speaker with the wires crossed so i cant say for sure, but i suspect that the left front is wired wrong from the factory.

Has anyone seen this or have any comments?

The left front speaker has deteriorated and gone bad faster than the right and being wired wrong might be the reason..?

btw, Pioneer DEH-P710BT + Hertz HCX165 = Awesome.
I can only imagine what a car stereo could sound like with a propper 100Wrms x 4 Amplifier and dynamat around the doors and floor.. even in a DC2R. I cant now crank the shit and barely hear the car when fanging it when i feel like listening to music and not the car

[SpecJ]

i highly doubt there would be error from factory re cabling/wiring harness. if that was the case, then tens of thousands of other DC tegs would have the same issue, as wiring harnesses are certainly mass produced, and in my opinion, standardised to run across all platforms of hondas which have power windows, switches and speakers in their doors.

I suspect it would've been fiddled around with before, and the person who re-did the cabling to match stock speakers made an error. Just FYI, the stock door cabling in my DC2R was fine.

[on boost]

i just recently replaced my speakers and everything is fine?

[Zilli]

you put in new speakers and didnt replace the cabling?

[SpecJ]

theres nothing wrong with that zilli. I hvae done so on the accord, civic ej8 and now dc2r. the cabling is more than adequate for a basic off the shelf system. only when u start getting into audiophile space, which is when u want minimum points of failure/error, then u re-cable.

for daily drivers who want a bit more, it is more than enough. (unless its a 20yo car with rust n shiz all over it).

I'm ecstatic with the $150 HU + $100 front speakers running off stock wiring. sounds great.

[Zilli]

cool.... i guess my understanding is that Hertz was a reasonably expensive brand (could be wrong, ive not bought any stereo gear since i put my stuff in 10 years ago)...

i spent a fair bit of money on my speakers, and ensured all cables were redone with quality cabling, not what Honda put in in the factory...

[tinkerbell]

copper is copper, lol!

if you reckon you can hear the difference between the factory wires and a *quality* wires on a set of 6.5in woofers, i reckon you are dreaming!

on larger higher current speakers driven by an amplifier - maybe, but not on factory sized speakers driven by a head-unit...

[kavehman]

For decent front speakers your going to need a separate amp to run them. Aftermarket speakers don't get enough power from a stock deck.

If you don't cut corners, costs it makes sense to upgrade the cableing. The stock cableing is incredibly thin and cannot handle higher currents.

Just look at the crappy cabling running the headlights.

[00dc2]

but running new cables seems like such a pain in the ass... i mean removing the whole front interior right?

[00dc2]

and taking the doors fully apart, not just the trim..?

[kavehman]

If you want to hide the wiring it is a pain in the ass. I did it by drilling a hole through that molex plug and running cabling through the existing tubes. It was a major pain in the ass, and took me a weekend to do. I did it because i was uncomfortable drilling holes in the door. You only need to remove door trim btw.

If I were to do it again I would run the cable along the outside of the cable and drill a hole in the door (sealing up the hole with a grommet) and then using that cable to power the speaker (would be a 15 min job). You don’t have to take apart the dash, the cable would then run under the carpet to wherever your amp is located. Cables from your headunit to the amp would provide the signal.

I think that’s the easiest (and best option 2) in my opinion. Dynamat does help deaden the doors and i recommend it.

[Zilli]

copper is copper, lol!

if you reckon you can hear the difference between the factory wires and a *quality* wires on a set of 6.5in woofers, i reckon you are dreaming!

on larger higher current speakers driven by an amplifier - maybe, but not on factory sized speakers driven by a head-unit...

i had a lot of custom work done to fit in oversize drivers with magnets that were heavier that both of my stock speakers combined and running off a dedicated amp... the money spent running proper, new cabling is worth it based on the investment...

but then everyone is different i guess...

[tinkerbell]

i dont think 00dc2 is doing that though?

but good on you for doing it 'properly'

[kavehman]

Dave I don't think it's about running better cabling it's more about running cabling that can handle the power requirements of aftermarket speakers.

The stock cables will fizzle with higher demands.

[DC2RKID]

stock head decks these days run around 18 wrms per channel which is nothing..so standard wiring is fine