◄◄◄◄ The Wheel Fitment Thread ►►►►

[aidannn]

nope no mods required.

camber F-0.3 , R-2.4ish

[TeMp]

nope no mods required.

camber F-0.3 , R-2.4ish

Rear having 8 times more camber then front?

[K.C.]

why not, more camber at rear, less snap oversteer, i think.... anyone?

[Didz]

why not, more camber at rear, less snap oversteer, i think.... anyone?

I think harder sussy at rear could solve that, that or stiffer sways.

SPeaking from my own experience with a stock DC5R. I got snap oversteer from too much body roll and twist in conjunction with tyres turning to mush.

[ChargeR]

why not, more camber at rear, less snap oversteer, i think.... anyone?

Those alignment settings may prevent oversteer but a stock or lightly modified DC5 is not going to "snap" oversteer. Any oversteer is most likely driver induced. That alignment spells understeer and more understeer.

[03DC5R]

i need to set my sussy correctly...after all the mods, its not easy to drive on the twisties anymore...whats a good allignment for a heavilly modded dc5r?

edit: at the moment its like -1.5 camber all around...

[ChargeR]

i need to set my sussy correctly...after all the mods, its not easy to drive on the twisties anymore...whats a good allignment for a heavilly modded dc5r?

edit: at the moment its like -1.5 camber all around...

It is hard to say what alignment will work for you exactly but to start with you should have more front negative camber than rear since the Macpherson strut gains very little camber with compression compared to the rear. Thus to have any hope of having the tyre approximately flat on the ground when cornering you need to run more static camber at the front.

If you aren't tracking and just like a little spirited driving then I would start with maybe -2 front -1 rear and a little toe in or zero toe at the rear.

[03DC5R]

im running tein flex coilovers with the ball joint at the front, and mfactory camber kit at the back...for some reason, the max the front goes is -1.7! is this normal?

[m0nty]

That could be the maximum you can run without ruining toe settings. Shorter tie rods and camber bolts will assist in getting more front neg with minimal toe deviation.

[TeMp]

Those alignment settings may prevent oversteer but a stock or lightly modified DC5 is not going to "snap" oversteer. Any oversteer is most likely driver induced. That alignment spells understeer and more understeer.

Exactly my thoughts...

im running tein flex coilovers with the ball joint at the front, and mfactory camber kit at the back...for some reason, the max the front goes is -1.7! is this normal?

That actually sounds pretty right. I only got around -1.5 front camber with just the pillow mounts and inverted tie rod ends (which is shorter them OEM) and this is on my SS. After a set of camber bolts I got it to -2.8. With a second set I should be able to get it around -3.8ish.

[daz]

That sounds about right. I only got around -1.5 front camber with just the pillow mounts and this is on my SS. After a set of camber bolts I got it to -2.8. With a second set I should be able to get it around -3.8ish.

But you are using AKOM inverted tierod ends. 03DC5R hasn't said what tierod ends he uses.

With the same setup as TeMp (minus the camber bolts), I am currently at -2.2 at the front, there might be a little more left. I am running slightly toe in but running out of thread on the tierod end On oem tierod ends was I was able to get more neg camber then I can on this current set up.

[TeMp]

But you are using AKOM inverted tierod ends. 03DC5R hasn't said what tierod ends he uses.

With the same setup as TeMp (minus the camber bolts), I am currently at -2.2 at the front, there might be a little more left. I am running slightly toe in but running out of thread on the tierod end On oem tierod ends was I was able to get more neg camber then I can on this current set up.

O yeah! lol I totally forgot about my tie rod ends. Thanks Daz!

Actually thinking about it now -1.7 is quite a lot of camber with just pillow mounts.

[ChargeR]

But you are using AKOM inverted tierod ends. 03DC5R hasn't said what tierod ends he uses.

With the same setup as TeMp (minus the camber bolts), I am currently at -2.2 at the front, there might be a little more left. I am running slightly toe in but running out of thread on the tierod end On oem tierod ends was I was able to get more neg camber then I can on this current set up.

Interesting that you were running out of thread and you still had toe in, usually the Akom ends allow significant negative camber before issues with toe start to arise because they are shorter than the stock ends.

I don't understand how it is possible that you could get more camber on stock tie rod ends unless all these people with those ricey inverted tie rod ends have been lying about them being shorter.

[ChargeR]

And to keep everyone motivated here is some of the best track style fitment I have ever seen:

[03DC5R]

That actually sounds pretty right. I only got around -1.5 front camber with just the pillow mounts and inverted tie rod ends (which is shorter them OEM) and this is on my SS. After a set of camber bolts I got it to -2.8. With a second set I should be able to get it around -3.8ish.

im using OEM tie rod ends...i didnt know you can can get camper bolts for the front? im thinking of getting the tie rod end that jdmyard sells...i think they're tope one tie rod ends? i forgot the brand name...what are the best inverted tie rod ends i can get? i dont think i wanna run anything lower than -1.5 at the front anyway...as i wanna set my car up for mainly drags and the occasional mountain run...