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Seam weldng and foam filling chassis rails

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    #16
    Originally posted by JDM_DC5R View Post
    I just dont like roll cages.

    If you have a bumper car, you dont care if you knock into things.

    You concentrate on driving a lot more if you know you're stuffed if you slip up.

    Each to their own.
    To each is their own, but your the one building (from the sounds of it) a fast car which will be driven fast and competitively in an unpredictable environment.

    By installing a roll cage, you kill two birds with one stone, you add rigidity to your chassis and you also drastically increase the safety of yourself and any other occupants in the vehicle.

    A bumper car really has nothing to do with my post or my concerns.

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      #17
      Originally posted by BlackDC2 View Post
      To each is their own, but your the one building (from the sounds of it) a fast car which will be driven fast and competitively in an unpredictable environment.

      By installing a roll cage, you kill two birds with one stone, you add rigidity to your chassis and you also drastically increase the safety of yourself and any other occupants in the vehicle.

      A bumper car really has nothing to do with my post or my concerns.
      shut up jase!
      'freakygeek is the stig'

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        #18
        Originally posted by JDM_DC5R View Post
        I just dont like roll cages.

        If you have a bumper car, you dont care if you knock into things.

        You concentrate on driving a lot more if you know you're stuffed if you slip up.

        Each to their own.
        from the sounds of your comments it seems you are yet to actually compete in any form of motorsport?

        is this the case?
        ... retired/

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          #19
          Originally posted by JDM_DC5R View Post
          I just dont like roll cages.

          If you have a bumper car, you dont care if you knock into things.

          You concentrate on driving a lot more if you know you're stuffed if you slip up.

          Each to their own.
          You should get a cage, it is one of the best mods a sereas motorsport competitor can do...
          Last edited by SHIFTY; 04-04-08, 03:39 PM.
          RWD + Boost =

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            #20
            For a lot (all?) of CAMS sanctioned events you need a roll cage if you are running slicks.

            If it is a custom welded in cage you will need to use chrom moly (steel which will add weight) rather than aluminium.

            If you want to have it legal for road use, the Vicroads requirements for accessibility (side bars, etc) conflict with the motorsport side of where you want to place the bars.

            If you are fair dinkum look at the CAMS website and get a custom rollcage manufacturer to give you a quote.

            Seam welding a chassis – go for stitch welding, rather than continuous welds.
            Honda DC2R Integra

            If I change the nut behind the wheel then my sloppy lines improve and I can get some consistency to sort out my iffy handling, my worrying lack of braking ability goes away, after that I can start fretting about my suspicious lack of straight line grunt.

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              #21
              stitch welding ftw

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                #22
                I used to drive a 306GTI in France for a team, a long time ago. Then I did a bit of contract driver work around Europe until I got home sick and moved back here.

                I really cant say anything more about the car or the event though.

                (A reason not to drive a car on the road with any bars inside near the driver, is that I was recently in another car, where the driver lost control and I smashed my head on the B pillar. Had there been a roll cage or door brace, there would be a very good chance that I would have split my head like a mellon.)
                ------- Lets just take this to another thread or something....

                Roll cage = helmet whilst driving at all times. And please dont say padding on the roll bars helps until you've actually hit your head against one in an accident. --------- this part too.... just talk about in on another thread.


                Now lets get back to working out what are the most beneficial parts of the car to stitch/seam weld, and also some prices/availability on high density pour fill polyurethane so we can all go get some and weld up our cars!!! whoo!
                Last edited by JDM_DC5R; 04-04-08, 06:00 PM.

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                  #23
                  That foam is a 2 part liquid. Steve (friend of mine) uses it when he is shaping up new body kits. Because it's sand-able, if you know what I mean.
                  He once put it into a commodore cross member that had something rattling around in there. Taped-up the holes, poured in the liquid, waited a couple of min for it to expand. Once it cooled down, just removed the excess with a knife. No more rattle.
                  sigpic
                  B.L.A.T Racing.
                  Brake Late & Turn.

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                    #24
                    i heard the stuff is pretty toxic that's why its a 2 pack. And it can get pretty messy.

                    OZ - how much is the stuff anyway?

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                      #25
                      No idea, but I'll ask & get back to you. Toxic, Yeah ! We joke around about how you'd be if you drank some. Simple answer...No-Good.

                      Originally posted by Limbo View Post
                      i heard the stuff is pretty toxic that's why its a 2 pack. And it can get pretty messy.

                      OZ - how much is the stuff anyway?
                      Last edited by OZ-227; 08-04-08, 08:15 PM.
                      sigpic
                      B.L.A.T Racing.
                      Brake Late & Turn.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Limbo View Post
                        OZ - how much is the stuff anyway?
                        Sorry it's taken this long to get back to you.

                        There's 2 ways you can go with this:-
                        1) There's a company called FMS at Seven Hills. You can buy the 2KG kit for about $40. This is the the part stuff. Preparation is the key with this stuff.
                        2) Bunnings sell "Foam It" which isn't as messy. Pressure pack can. Bigger than normal size spray can, for about $20.

                        Option 1, you'd have enought to do your whole car. Where you would need a lot of Foam-it at $20 each. But you pay for the ease of use.

                        Hope that helps.
                        sigpic
                        B.L.A.T Racing.
                        Brake Late & Turn.

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                          #27
                          Space Filler Foam from Bunnings is very different from the actual product thats used to stiffen up frames. I've also read somewhere not to use the bunning's type foams as it has some negative impact to the car - can't quote sources so don't quote me..
                          MFactory Performance Products

                          Follow my journey to Superlap at: http://nextstopsuperlap.blogspot.com.au/

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                            #28
                            Performance driving without a roll cage? Hopefully its a relatively slow car I felt that way about my old Jazz.. you could floor it all the time and not really be going at deadly speeds.

                            In any case, I don't think the OP should bother with the 2 part foam or welding. Its the last thing you'd do after you have already modified all other parts of the car, including all the standard pillar/strut/fender bars, etc.

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                              #29
                              just a thought, i brought some foam in a can for filling in gaps for the house.
                              Might be able to use it for the car also? Cost me $15 per Can BOSTICK brand(its a large can).
                              I've used it on some gaps and its pretty impressive. Takes overnight to fully expand, and then you just fut the excess off.

                              It comes with a straw so you can get it into deep cracks and stuff.

                              I might try it on the car when i get the chance.

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                                #30
                                I think I've used that stuff from the hardware store. As far as I know it dries solid but its not really hard or stiff? Ie. you can still bend it out of shape and break it with your hands.

                                It makes great insulator, but its pointless for car chassis unless it dries rock hard.

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