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K20A in EG swap instructions

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    K20A in EG swap instructions

    Hey,

    Anyone know where i could get some detailed instructions for doing a k20a swap in an EG? I know only of a handful of things but it would be handy to get my hands on something comprehensive.

    Cheers.

    #2
    omg alan your back! where have you been!?

    And I know this is kinda sad to say but I beleive more pople over in ozhonda has done the swap then here. There are a few here but if you don't get enough reponse do try ozhonda.

    Comment


      #3
      I did the swap at home, and to be frank, there isn't really a step by step to do it...there is so much shit to be done, but the main thing i found is to make sure you have every single component for the swap before starting, or you will be looking for little bits and pieces for ages...

      Comment


        #4
        all here

        http://www.hasport.com/tech/hasport.htm

        what leslie said....get every screw you need for your swap before you begin....or it will never get completed LOL

        z10 says:
        i bet you will have 10000 wheels when you are done
        z10 says:
        mon-fri 9am-5pm chasing for jazz parts

        Comment


          #5
          go onto k20a.org.

          Some trader is selling a K-swap DVD into EG. There going for $39.95US.
          BYP Racing & Developments
          Built. Tuned. Driven
          Want to go fast? Come see us! e: jimmy@bypracing.com ph: (02) 9757 4757

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            #6
            Originally posted by fatboyz39 View Post
            go onto k20a.org.

            Some trader is selling a K-swap DVD into EG. There going for $39.95US.
            Quoted for truth. Check out this k20a org subforum: http://www.k20a.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=13

            Comment


              #7
              sorry for hi jack , dont want to start another thread.

              what would you recommend changing while the engine is being transplanted? as in timing belt, themo etc blah blah. for say a 50,000km engine
              19,000 rpm still going

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by EK4R View Post
                sorry for hi jack , dont want to start another thread.

                what would you recommend changing while the engine is being transplanted? as in timing belt, themo etc blah blah. for say a 50,000km engine
                Might have trouble changing a timing belt on a k series . I am not sure what you would change. My dc5 has 100,000ks on it and I have not changed anything of note.

                A new thermostat would probably be a good idea in my opinion however as the cooling in some swapped cars seems to be a bit marginal from reading on k20a.org.

                Comment


                  #9
                  hm interesting.

                  well im changing just coolant cos thats a must. maybe il just reuse my current thermostate from my engine. and possibily some spark plugs

                  what about clutch. thinking of doing a change on that. gearbox been 100,000km.

                  would it be easier with the engine out or it wouldnt matter
                  19,000 rpm still going

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by EK4R View Post
                    hm interesting.

                    well im changing just coolant cos thats a must. maybe il just reuse my current thermostate from my engine. and possibily some spark plugs

                    what about clutch. thinking of doing a change on that. gearbox been 100,000km.

                    would it be easier with the engine out or it wouldnt matter
                    what is your current engine and what is the engine you have out and are installing into your car now?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      well im just asking out of curiosity

                      engine atm would be ausdm k20

                      new engine going in would be jdm k20

                      but just wondering if i should change the clutch since its been 100,00km or so. as in would i save labour cost when the engine is out when doing this. or no big difference in $$$ cos it still has quiet some bite left
                      19,000 rpm still going

                      Comment


                        #12
                        it is always easier to do a clutch when the motor is out. Depends what car it is in, as a DC5 has little space to work with when the motor is in.

                        coolant is replaced when the motor is back in, and radiator is re-connected, and in that case, the thermostat should be looked at. i would not reuse a old item, thats for sure.

                        plugs would be a good idea.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          yeah il look into that.

                          cheers leslie will give the mechanic a call
                          19,000 rpm still going

                          Comment


                            #14
                            yea just called mech goes probaly wont need a thermo unless im tracking hardcore. same goes buffle sump cos the k20 is already pretty strong.

                            clutch wise, no labour cost, just maybe machining the flywheel and flyhweel bearing
                            19,000 rpm still going

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The K20 swap is a great swap. However its also damn expensive, even if you were to do everything at home.

                              It will cost ~10K to get it done for either an EK or EG based on an engine cost of 7-7.5K which is relatively cheap for now.

                              In addition, once going to K there is no point in keeping it completely stock becuase it wouldnt be much better than the B without maxing its potential. So the least you would then need would be K pro and full exhaust and good headers (better than the DC stuff which everyone uses).. This would be another 3K to the build taking the total to 13K for a Low 13 sec to midhigh 12 sec pass (depending on drive and weight of car).

                              The cost is inmense.
                              General parts required :

                              Complete K20A with manifolds, TB, alternator, starter, 6 speed gbox, engine and charge harnesses, Shafts, shifter box and cabling

                              Clutch line
                              Mount kit
                              Engine conversion harness
                              FPR,rail and line
                              Karcept shifter box if you want to use stock shifter boot and cover.
                              Headers
                              Radiator hose (Think u can use one stock one... else jsut find bits and pieces)


                              And if u want A/C and P/S you will proabably need custom lines, and not sure about mounts

                              In addition, all the general servicing parts, Clutch, flywheel, oils, coolant, waterpump, thermostats, etc etc

                              This is from the top of my head, best to do more research.


                              to install

                              Quiet str8 forward,
                              Move Radiator to right side to clear space (drill out takes and reweld or use alloy brackets ; shouldnt be too hard if u cant weld)
                              drop in engine with mount kit
                              might need to weld an nut on subframe to engine mount as the mounts are designed for LHD subframes (seen it done for an EK/EM1.. now sure if its always the case)
                              hook up all the parts purchased and do wiring
                              Start the car and drive to CITR meet
                              Last edited by BlitZ; 12-03-08, 12:43 PM.

                              Project: Machine myself a heavy gear knob

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