Best Oil for our beloved Hondas

[ChargeR]

Yer cartrol edge 5-30 is ok. Found it got dirty really quick!
I personally use MOBIL 1 5-30. About 80 bucks at super cheap.
I buy from these people. there in Eastwood. really cheap
http://www.gllubricants.com/

U need 4.1 litters

Oh also ryco is shit. Use HAMP. you can get this from JDM yard or jdm concept. Or i use K&N fillters from the states

Maybe you're just a really busy guy or English isn't your first language but please make more effort to make your posts intelligible.

Decent advice otherwise, for a stock car for street use any of the major branded semi-synthetics in the correct viscosity will be fine. I'd just use a Honda oil filter, I've never had one fail on me, even the trashy Thai made ones.

[JUST VTEC]

Iv just tried castrols new oil 10w 60 its freckin awsome .temp guage problem i had as gone but to under half and im getting zero burn

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[Karl]

10-60 is way thick! Whats your psi at operating temp!


to mention the 1st number is velocity at starting temp and the 2nd numbers at operating temp. Said to be 100 degrees. So you've doubled whats recommended. Honda says 5-30

[rookie]

I agree with Karl, 10w60 is probably a bit intense for your car but then again, i don't know exactly what purpose it is used for and how/where it is driven.

All i'm going to say is to go to BITOG and read up as much as you can.

Depending on the type of oil (Mineral, semi-synthetic, synthetic); The first number in a standard oil viscosity measurement, (eg. 10w-30)as far as i am aware, is in reference to the viscosity of the oil when it is cool. Although, fully synthetic oils are generally much thinner when cool in comparison to a mineral oil of the same viscosity. Synthetic oils do not thicken as much on cooling.

The second number is in reference to the viscosity of the oil at 212F (Normal operating temperature). Between synthetic and mineral oils of the same viscosity rating, they will both be similar at operating temps.

"This is worth repeating: The synthetic 10W-30 grade oil is based on a heavier 30 grade oil while the mineral based 10W-30 oil is based on a thinner 10 grade oil. They are both similar at operating temperatures yet the 30 grade based synthetic is actually less thick at startup and much less honey – like at low temperatures. - BITOG"

[EG30]

Iv just tried castrols new oil 10w 60 its freckin awsome .temp guage problem i had as gone but to under half and im getting zero burn

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Glad you tried the Castrol 10w60 and its advantages under harsh conditions where it really excels.

I've been using this oil since 1992 where it was imported by Castrol under the Syntron 10w60 branding in 2L metal cans. After a year or 2 they started to produce it locally as Castrol R 10w60, before a mass rebranding of their premium oil range under the Castrol Edge branding in gold bottles some years back; and mpst recently last year they released the updated Edge range with the titanium series tag that coincides with the SN ratings. Used it initally in my E30 323i which was really hard on the oil and it was the only oil that didnt start burning after 3000-4000kms, then my 1971 bmw 2002 racecar I had from '95 till 2007 and my eg civic racecar afterthat.

It's still 10W at the cold end, not 25W-xx or 40W-xx where it would be too thick at coldstarts at cold end of temps we see in this country for the oil to flow adequately in engines with narrow oil passages and inside the hydraulic lifters in late model engines.

The Castrol 10W60 is approved and rec by BMW for its M Cars. Ferrari recommends Shell Helix racing 10W60 for its current road cars.

At the hot end being a xxw-60 weight oil at 100C might seem too high to the uninformed and it might be as thick as say a xxw-50 weight at say 80C and cost additional drag at such temps ie gentle normal driving; but high temps such as track work on a warm day in Aust can reach 130-140C after few laps on cars w/out oil coolers the extra weight with better film strength / resistance to shear is a very valuable insurance.

After only a 3 lap sprint in the warm months in my EG B16a, even the 60 weight oil drips like water on the dipstick and I would not wish it to be any lighter weight in those situations. Sure if had a lighter grade premium oil such I might gain couple of hp; but I much rather have the best safety margin I could afford at realistic prices. There are a few boutique brands that claim to offer as much if not more protection with a lighter grade with claimed much longer service intervals etc; but at a cost of $150-160+ per oil change vs $80 ( often cheaper on specials at SCA & Repco ) the choice is easy for me; and with fuel dilution being a major oil killer even exotic brands can't combat over time and needs regular oil change after a few events, not the whole season.

A fren of mine races his FD2 at Sepang, usually the 12hr MMER race uses the Castrol 10W60 also. Apart from peforming to the needs of the 12hr race, being easily avail in KL from reputable Castrol suppliers was a huge plus for the race team looking after his car. Counterfeit auto parts and consumables are not uncommon in that region and many had bought fake prestige brand products and paid hefty prices in races.

The Castrol 10w60 does have a few disadvantages, especially when car not being used under harsh conditions.

It's an ester based oil without friction modifer additives, with minmal detergents/dispersents in its additive pack. You can only fit so much inside the oil molecules so it's packed full of anti-wear additves and anti shear additives. Think of it as like a DOT semi slick tyre, while a road legal tyre it's a no compromise setup bias towards max grip wear rolling resistance, comfort and noise are very low priorities.

If used in cars driven gently that never sees high engine loads and temps it would be a waste of $ , as well as more laggy engine response and increased fuel consumption compared to say a premium, energy conserving 5W30 oil such as the Castrol Edge, Mobil or Shell Helix 5W30. Under the rocker cover can look a bit dirty with cotinued use also with this oil ( a lot depends on the design of the engine setup and doesn't happen to every engine design). It's for the reasons above I use Mobil 1 5W50 in our dc2r as I like the look of clean rockers in that car and prefers better throttle response for everyday driving. If I ever track that car I would use Castrol 10w60 without a doubt.

On a side note when we tried the 10w40 Motul 300v ester oil, it felt as laggy on the road as the Castrol 10w60 and under the rockers started to get a bit dirty too after only 3000kms. It was bloody $$$ and only came in 2L bottles at Repco; after the raving from many at forums I thought I give it a try but never again.

So to wrap it up JUST VTEC for you to notice the zero burn and better oil temp readings the downsides of the Castrol 10w60 probably won't bother you at all.

[hello]

10-60 is way thick! Whats your psi at operating temp!


to mention the 1st number is velocity at starting temp and the 2nd numbers at operating temp. Said to be 100 degrees. So you've doubled whats recommended. Honda says 5-30

viscosity.

thanks for the input eg30.

[Master_Scythe]

Remember, there is not such thing as a 'hot viscosity' on the bottle (BITOG can help there :P) The 2 numbers are pretty simply understood

First (so, 0w, 5w, 10w, etc) = How easily the oil FLOWS when cold
Second (x-20, x-30, x-60, where x= the first number) = The shear point.

A shear point is where the oil 'tears', gets pushed out of the gap, and allows contact between the 2 surfaces it was between. A higher second number does USUALLY mean it stays thicker when hot, but definately not always.

Im one of those people who believe in 'lowest first number, highest (sensible) second'

I have a DC5, i'd consider 5w-30 my lowest safe oil (though in the US, manual says 5w-20 for winter!), and I'd consider 0w-40 even better. and 10w-40\60 the thickest i'd run.

With that said, there is one thing to consider with 'fast flowing oil' (thin), is that even if the last coating doesnt sheer and allow metal to metal contact, i CAN still be squished out of the joints and allow too much 'space' between the joints.

This is why SLIGHTLY thicker oil can quieten an engine; and if it does, its usually a good sign that it wanted that thicker oil due to slight wear.


Also; if you're the researching type of person look into Mos2 addative

[Master_Scythe]

Oh, and I just stumbled across something ive been looking for, for a LONG time.

Exactly WHAT has been rebranded to make SuperCheapAuto Calibre 5w-30 Synthetic (with a castrol logo on the top).
If i'm to believe a guy on BITOG, its this:
http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAnd...n.aspx?ID=1800

So, its a 5w-30 on the heavy end (2 points thicker than most 5w-30, cold and hot, but not thick enough to count as something heavier)

and the supercheap Synth Blend 15w-40:
http://www.caltex.com.au/PRODUCTSAND...n.aspx?ID=1836

[tiger16]

I use royal purple. They sell them at Super cheap now. Very Awesome stuff

[Karl]

Any one have thoughts on 0-40w for a Dc2R, better protection over 5-30w? or to thin at start up?

[khanguskhan]

My DC2R gets 10w40 for Autumn n Winter then 10-15w50 for Spring Summer 130k kms at the moment. I'm not sure if it's answering your question!

[Setanta]

Crap - went to do an oil change today on the DC2R and realised I'd picked up 10-40 not 5-30 Royal Purple. No refund as I'd opened it and was about to pour.

Looks like the E30 is about to get a treat instead of the magnatec it usually gets (yeah I know, Magnatec, but it does the job and let's face it, the E30 redlines at 4500 rpm ).

[mugsee]

Any one have thoughts on 0-40w for a Dc2R, better protection over 5-30w? or to thin at start up?

The 0W-40 will protect the engine better on cold startup conditions (ie. VERY cold weather - think snow like conditions) but if you don't live on top of a mountain during winter, theres not much advantage in using a 0W weight oil. However, theres also no harm in using a 0W-40 either. The real life differences are negligible - the flow on the 0W should be slightly better on initial startup but after a couple of minutes of warming up (idling/slow driving) this is negated.

On the other end of the scale(when the oil is hot), when comparing a Red Line 0W-40 and a 5W-40, both of these have the similar viscosity properties when brought up to operating temperatures so they should perform almost identically.

My DC2R gets 10w40 for Autumn n Winter then 10-15w50 for Spring Summer 130k kms at the moment. I'm not sure if it's answering your question!

Most newer Honda's (including DC2Rs) use a 5W-30, and anything from a 5W-30 to a 10W-40 should be fine all year long. A 15W-50 is pretty heavy for almost all Honda motors...

Have you checked what the user manual suggests you use for your car?

Crap - went to do an oil change today on the DC2R and realised I'd picked up 10-40 not 5-30 Royal Purple. No refund as I'd opened it and was about to pour.

Looks like the E30 is about to get a treat instead of the magnatec it usually gets (yeah I know, Magnatec, but it does the job and let's face it, the E30 redlines at 4500 rpm ).

Nothing wrong with using a 10W-40 during summer - it should help with added protection especially if you take it onto the track. You're E30 is probably disagreeing with me though.

[Apu]

I subscribe to what E30 has posted. I think anything less than 10W is pointless in our climate - that's really for places that experience much colder seasons than we get here unless you live in the mountains in winter. That said, the xW factor is less important for us than the shear point figure (the -40 or -50 figure).

When I used to track my cars in Malaysia, we'd go for an xW-50 or 60 oil due to the heat...which wouldn't be all to different to the weather we get here from early summer to early autumn.

I know a few people who ran 0W-30 oils, they claimed the car was "more revvy" and they appeared to have produced a couple more kW on the dyno...but they also screwed their bearings.

I think it's stupid to try and gain a couple of kW through using a lighter oil...the reality is, we can't feel that couple of kW unless you're a pro driver in a championship race, it'll make bugger all difference. The longer term cost is not worth it. Check with the shops that race cars and see what they use...particularly endurance racers.

Stick with the range recommended for your car by the manufacturer, and if you track it, go for a slightly thicker oil.

[ahofnar]

My apologies for commenting on an old thread. This is a very interesting read that changed the way I look at oil. Hopefully you guys find it useful.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/