Nulon 10w 40 Fully Synthetic I've been using 
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Anyone use/d liquimoly?Comment
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Ive spent MONTHS on Bob Is The Oil Guy studying oils.
Theres not a lot of generalisations that can be made on oil, but there are a few I'm comfortable making. These comments are based on results of multiple UOA's of various types of vehicles.
Please note these are generalisations, and not every oil will conform to them. They're also my oppinion, feel free to debate them (and PLEASE do) but only if you have evidience.
Mobil1 constantly performs strong, however the cost is over the top unless you actually know how long untill you have until drain. Most people drain twice as often as they should with an oil with as high a sheer point as the addative package in Mobil1.
Valvolene typically doesnt seem to protect well. Wear metals are always present and they seem to sheer very quickly, especially any type of 'blend'. The same applies to Castrol Magnatec. If you can find me one good review of it with supporting evidience, I'll be surprised. Maybe I'll buy you a coke.
OTHER Castrol oils perform wonderfully overall. Especially the EDGE series, and while some are better than others, I'm yet to find a 'bad' review overall for a Castrol oil thats not Magnatec. (hence why I personally run Castrol; but let me explain).
The verdct is still out on NULON oils these days. They got rid of the teflon\PTFE that plagued their reputation, but they havent told us what the NEW addative is that claims 35% less friction.
Personally I use Supercheap CALIBER FULLY SYNTHETIC. And will continue to do so.
Why?
1. Check the logo on the lid (its a Castrol Oil).
2. Check the standards testing (Its passed the same as CASTROL EDGE SPORT).
3. The price is incredible for a fully synthetic.
Fact is, a company only has so many 'batches' of oil and addatives.
AND
The only oil in the castrol line that matches CALIBRE is the EDGE SPORT, every other one bottled in the same plant doesnt match the specifications\standards.
While theres a small risk, the odds are pretty DAMN high that its unbranded castrol EDGE. (ran this oil in my old galant for 6 years, and its been nothing but perfect too, no noticible deposits, ran clean, no consumption, and no sign of wear on the cams)
While I'm on the topic, addatives:
PTFE\TEFLON = bad. Doesnt bond with material untill something like 1000degC, so its more like tiny sandpaper.
Mos2\Moly = Good. If you do a reading of hondas own 'run in oil' and their FEO, the one outstanding element is HUGE doses of Moly.
ZDDP\Zinc = Good. Removed mainly for emissions reasons, and nothing more. Its in Redline Break In Oil.
Stop leaks\smoke = bad. Usually works by swelling the seals. its a VERY short term fix.
and so on.
If ive missed anything and you wish to ask, go ahead. Also, i'm happy to be open for debate and all my claims can be checked by a trip to your supercheap to read the bottles, or by looking on BITOG forums.
Sorry if i sound a little up myself or arrogant in this post, I'm just very used to being flamed without supporting evidience after i spent literally months of my time researching this stuff online, and on the phone to companys.
also a funny little tidbit; the '5000' rule started in the united states, hence the term 'milage'. 5000 miles = 8 046.72 kilometres. Most of us change oils nice and early.
Also due to our hot climate (at least in QLD) i'd not run anything less than a 10w-30; maybe a 5w-30 for a daily drive.Comment
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Their oils are a group3 oil mainly, with their Mos2 molly addative added.Originally posted by rookie View Post
They have an AMAZING name in europe, with not a single word to be said bad about them.
Its the only addative I dare put in an engine.
Its also the only addative I've not had perofessional mechanics freak out about. Its so soft, even i its 'useless' in the engine, the odds of it doing bad are miniscule.Comment
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Nice info man. For anyone wanting to read up on more of this go to BobIsTheOilGuy
Yeah i was talking to a guy about liquimoly, pretty much told me exactly what you said. Massive overseas, with EUDM cars and what-not. Just wondering how they perform with the Hondas.Comment
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What's everyone's opinion on Redline oil?Comment
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Redline synthetic is the best... retired/Comment
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^^ I prefer Royal Purple over Redline but thats my preference.
I found this awhile ago on OzHonda.
I don't know how old it is, if the facts are completely true but go for a read.
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdfLast edited by MYDC5R; 17-04-12, 10:36 AM.Comment
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Interesting read. I wonder how up-to-date this information is and how relevant the test is in comparison to an engine.Originally posted by MYDC5R View PostComment
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From a quick google around, the article seems to be about 6+ years old, how much oil can change over the years I'm not too sure about?Comment
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Umm i couldn't go into in-depth detail as you probably could as im not that great on oils but it seems to hold up fine for me on track.Originally posted by tinkerbell View Post
Oil level on the dip stick didn't change much, if anything at all.
I chose mainly to use it after hearing some great reviews and it seems like the car feels better using it, rev's more freely and fuel economy has slightly improved.Last edited by MYDC5R; 17-04-12, 12:13 PM.Comment
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Temp was, it help up great, it stabled around 130c but i backed off and went for a cooldown lapOriginally posted by tinkerbell View Post
Apperance once dropped, what do you mean by this (As i said, im not that great)?Comment
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Just so people are aware, the human ear, butt dyno, and other useless measuring tools dont actually show how well an oil is performing.
You need to send away a batch from your last drain for a UOA to tell if you have wear metals in the oil. If you do, then its not doing its job.
If you dont, then you're fine. Once you find an oil thats not showing wear metals, no matter the brand or type (even dino vs synthetic is usually irrelivant), the ONLY things you're then comparing is how quickly the oil sheers.
If Generic oil number 5, doesnt show metals.
and Mobil1 doesnt show metals.
Then they protect equally as well, the only difference is for how long?
Unless its a track day, or you plan to run hard for more than 10000km per change, 'generic oil' is just as good.
Oil has a LOT of brand snobbery behind it.
As a very valid example. I can speak from experience and several hundred dollars, that no Manual Fluid readily available in Australia works as well in our DC5s as Hondas own MTF.
Though if you read around, the consensus is the same. Bar one, available in the USA, GM Synchromesh.
"but Scythe, the HONDA stuff works fine, why change?"
The main difference in 3rd party testing (and you'll find all this on CRSX) is that the honda oil sheered MUCH more quickly and lost its 'new shift' feel very soon.
Unfortunately Synchromesh is distributed by PENZOIL and over here, GM use Penrite. And I cant be bothered importing fluids, so I cant try this first hand.
But I can promise you, anyhting available at Repco, Supercheap, or AUtobarn, is horrible to shift with (I personally tried every suitable MTF on their shelves when I first got the car).
So whats my solution then? For the $26 extra it costs me every 7500km (which is my service interval) I change my MTF at the same time
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