Best Oil for our beloved Hondas

[tinkerbell]

Apperance once dropped, what do you mean by this (As i said, im not that great)?

what did it look like/smell like/feel like when you changed it?

[tinkerbell]

http://www.oilcheck.com.au/technical...gine-oils.html

for those who are interested...

[MYDC5R]

what did it look like/smell like/feel like when you changed it?

Yet to change it, cars been primarily in the garage apart from a few outings.
Will give you that report this week if you like as most likely changing it tomorrow.

[Karl]

Just so people are aware, the human ear, butt dyno, and other useless measuring tools dont actually show how well an oil is performing.

You need to send away a batch from your last drain for a UOA to tell if you have wear metals in the oil. If you do, then its not doing its job.

If you dont, then you're fine. Once you find an oil thats not showing wear metals, no matter the brand or type (even dino vs synthetic is usually irrelivant), the ONLY things you're then comparing is how quickly the oil sheers.

If Generic oil number 5, doesnt show metals.
and Mobil1 doesnt show metals.
Then they protect equally as well, the only difference is for how long?
Unless its a track day, or you plan to run hard for more than 10000km per change, 'generic oil' is just as good.

Oil has a LOT of brand snobbery behind it.


As a very valid example. I can speak from experience and several hundred dollars, that no Manual Fluid readily available in Australia works as well in our DC5s as Hondas own MTF.
Though if you read around, the consensus is the same. Bar one, available in the USA, GM Synchromesh.

"but Scythe, the HONDA stuff works fine, why change?"
The main difference in 3rd party testing (and you'll find all this on CRSX) is that the honda oil sheered MUCH more quickly and lost its 'new shift' feel very soon.

Unfortunately Synchromesh is distributed by PENZOIL and over here, GM use Penrite. And I cant be bothered importing fluids, so I cant try this first hand.

But I can promise you, anyhting available at Repco, Supercheap, or AUtobarn, is horrible to shift with (I personally tried every suitable MTF on their shelves when I first got the car).

So whats my solution then? For the $26 extra it costs me every 7500km (which is my service interval) I change my MTF at the same time

Ive found a magnetic drain bolt can tell you this.. I service alot of mates car's.. We all use the same brand oil drian bolt. and some mates cars have alot of sluggy oil stuck to the plug... while the oil still drops thin. that's evidence of metal in the oil.

I use mobil 1 Gold extenderd perfromance 5w-30. Nothing on the drain plug after being droped. Being a full synthetic is actually more clear like water then it is golden.. Oil is still golden, clear when dropped. Temps in driving condition have dropped to 90 degrees max. And i have 0 burn..

Note this mobil 1 gold EP is imported from America. not available at supercheap ect

[tinkerbell]

I service alot of mates car's..

i hope you weren't telling them all to warm their cars up for 10 minutes before driving!

Ive found a magnetic drain bolt can tell you this..

check post #212 for what a magnetic bolt cant tell you

[Karl]

LOL i think i told them. But they dont seem to car about there car's as much as me, and im sure they didnt listen.. Truth be told. I read up alot about letting the car warm up. Only negative side was the cat converter. Which is meh.. Not a big problem to me. And the oil Contamination. that im sure it was fine. But it was serviced around every 3 G because i do it every 3 months. And now i give it only 1 minute. As i like to give it abit before i reverse up my front property

[Master_Scythe]

I think more importantly, is that not every metal is magnetic. If the bolt gets 'full' you're not seeing the real picture. and if the sear metals are too small, you wont know visually.

Magnetic bolts are no substitute for a UOA; nothing is.

If you have an oil you plan to use continuously, and you plan to keep the car 5+ years, doing at least 1 UOA is a worthwhile $30-60, that way you know you're actually doing your car justice.

While Mobil1 constantly does well, there has been the odd freak case where wear was HUGE on BITOG with Mobil.
What if thats your car? and you dont know it?

As i said, brand snobbery gets no one anywhere in the fluid world It all comes down to testing and results.

EDIT: warming up can form bad carbon deposits. basically too much combustion, and not enough 'flow' to clear all the nasties from burnt fuel.
This is a LOT worse in an AUTO also, since there is load on the engine when idle; where as us stick guys slam it into N.

[ChargeR]

Master_Scythe do you have a used oil analysis result you can post up? Also do you use a particular laboratory to get your analyses done?

[Master_Scythe]

Ive only had my DC5 for one service, so the oils would have still been contaminated with whatever the previous owner had in there. So unfortunately not yet.

My old analasys' went with the logbooks on my 3rd gen Accord, and My galant sitting in the driveway I only ever did 1 on, which I cant find. I know, excuses excuses

Give me a few months and i'll have one on my DC5, just wanna get 2 or 3 changes before i test, since I feel im using good fluids, it needs to be 'washed out' properly first.
Its my daily, so it shouldnt take too long.

As for where;
I live right near the BP refinery, and they used to offer a basic service (wear metals only) but they dont seem to anymore. Looking at the price, that link tinkerbell posted up is good. the prices are incredibly cheap
http://www.oilcheck.com.au

[tinkerbell]

yeah, looks like that place is heavy industry biased, so must do lotsa work!

for giggles, i might send off my latest valvoline stuff for analysis - it is definitely seems to be the worst oil i have used in my engine!

back to EDGE for me!

[Stephen_AUS]

Car: DC5R

I've used Royal Purple before, and definately is great stuff! Though if using as a daily oil, they do not tend to last long ... after 5000kms it turns black, but not very gritty and it thins out easily!

At this stage I am using Endless R-504 in my engine, it's been run in for 5000kms now ... no signs of grittyness yet, still golden colour but little dark, no oil level drop and definately performs! I found it did make a noteable difference compared to the Royal Purple oils with endurance and performance. Though for the price of $150, I guess what you pay for is what you get. And it is a race oil, am I correct ?

Anyone had used Endless R-504 here before ? There's gotta be someone out there ...

Great review Master_Scythe! No doubt, you seem to have done good ammount of research over the years of owning a car.

[JUST VTEC]

Im using penrite HPR 5w 40 but idk my temp guage at normal dtive temp seems to be above half ..should i use a thicker oil ? Wat do u guys thing

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[Oz Striker]

Im using penrite HPR 5w 40 but idk my temp guage at normal dtive temp seems to be above half ..should i use a thicker oil ? Wat do u guys thing

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How long has the oil been in the car? Most people don't use above a 40W, have seen some people using a 50W before though. Depending on the age of your oil it could be a number of different problems. Any other issues with the car?

[ChargeR]

I'm using Penrite HPR 5W-40 but my temperature gauge under normal driving conditions seems to be above half. Should I use a thicker oil? What do you guys think?

You mean you have an oil temperature gauge and it is above half? Or the stock coolant temperature gauge? Try to ease up on the text speak mate, this is the technical forum.

[JUST VTEC]

Sorry buddy i mean the stock guage in the car is running a little higher on this oil iv also check the radiator its full up , so its not low on water/coolant

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