Best Oil for our beloved Hondas

[DC2R]

O
Stick if Royal Purple and an OEM oil filter?

I would suggest that...

I use royal purple and OEM filter and my car doesn't burn any oil. Only on 101,500kms though. I really like royal purple oil.

[EG30]

Not sure if this is the case in the Eastern States, but in WA the dark blue geniune Honda oil filters that was made in Japan or USA are no longer avail.

We could only buy the green Hamp or a pastel blue oil filter with proper honda part no, made by Hamp in Thailand and the oil orifices are just as rough as the Hamp; except the pastel blue cost the same as the Jap and USA made version prior!

The parts dept at my local Honda dealer insists the blue one is meant to be better quality inside if you cut both open and compare.....But I serious doubt it, and not about to spend $32 to find out.

I've since been sourcing geniune Honda filters from hk as well as some Jp made oe brands that are very nicely finished and cost about half of the green hamp ones here.

As with your oil choice for your next change FOB Squad, it's normal for our cars to burn a bit of oil esp when you push the car a bit now and then. To know if your oil has deteriored beyond what it should within your service interval you need to get your oil analysed by a lab. Or try a different oil and see if it burns less next time around under very similar usuage conditions.

I use Mobil 1 5w50 for our dc2r, and doesnt burn a drop if I dont venture near the cutout too often. It's far from the best oil out there and it's not well suited for track work but I use my eg for competition work and the dc2r is 100% for the road; hence I like the Mobil 1's cleaniness ( Tried Motul 300v 10w40, feel lot laggier and does not keep internals cleans at all ), ease of procurement and often discounted at Repco or SCA for about $60/5L.

[hello]

I bought 10 from this seller lol
http://firesport.com.au/honda-oem-oi...--ad189142.htm

These ones were made in canada.

I previously bought 10 hamp filters for $110 from the guy who owned blue mugen dc5? Can't remember his name. that was pretty good.
I don't really trust these filters but I always change at 5-6000 kms, so not too fussed.
They're cheap that's all I cared, same price like repco shit filters haha.

Btw, I've been reading that most engine oil advertised in US can be labelled as synthetic even though they're not truly made from synthetic base. They can be advertised synthetic because they have similar quality as true synthetic oils.
Is this true as well in Australia?

[ChargeR]

Ok i feel like a weird posting in this thread since its been awhile since its been active.

But i just would like some advice on my next oil change for my DC2R.
It's coming up to 150,000km and for the last few oil changes i've been using Royal Purple and Hamp oil filters.
Now the car is burning a little oil. But i've been told that Hamp oil filters aren't too great for daily use and OEM is better for this. Oil turns pretty dark mind you from the original purple.
So next service i'll looking to use an OEM filter and possibly Royal Purple again or Redline.

I use to use Motul Turbolight which i found pretty good but made the transition to Royal Purple as I was advised it was a really good oil. So tried it ever since and been quite happy, as i found it to be a bit more of a consistent performer through difference conditions (eg temps).

Now my question is bascially what would be advised to use for a car that is used daily and burns a little oil?
Stick if Royal Purple and an OEM oil filter? or give Redline a crack?
Also any opinions on magnetic drain bolts? any good at all?

I used Red Line on my Integra when I tracked it but I wouldn't use it for the street, I put FEO in it when I wasn't going to the track for a while. Red Line or Royal Purple have a few advantages in theory, but I don't think they will be worthwhile in a street car. Being race oriented I feel like they might not have as many detergents and bits and pieces to keep a street car happy and they are stupidly expensive. The high load and high temperature performance of a synthetic isn't that essential for your use I believe since the engine isn't under high load for long periods on the street, but the detergents and things are very important.

Also I wouldn't seek to solve oil burning with a different oil. Use a decent oil of the correct viscosity and search for your issue elsewhere. If it is worn valve stem seals, oil control rings or a fault in the crank case ventilation system then changing the oil isn't going to fix it.

Just my thoughts on the matter, I have never done an oil analysis but also never broken a motor. Also I have always used the Filtech made OEM Honda filters and can't find fault with them. Filters do fail though, the Cooper filter (fitted by the previous owner) I removed from my CR-X had partially collapsed inside.

[F.O.B Squad]

Thanks for the prompt respones guys.

Found some helpful tips here.
I'm going to eventually get the engine overhauled some time in the near future, so for the mean time I'll be looking to find an oil+filter combination to work well for the mean time.
Definitley going to change filter to OEM most likely. As for oil i'll try looking into it a little more. Not going to track my car yet as i feel it is not ready in my opinion so oils for track i'll look into later on too.

But as for the this oil analysis tests, where would i be able to get this done by any chance? any recommendations in Melbourne?

[Addictions]

i usually use castrol edge, the gold bottle...

[cordz]

sorry to change the subject FOB but i too have a oil question for CITR.

guys,

got a SOTS day in two weeks.

I changed the car's oil and filter 2 months ago with CASTROL EDGE SPORT (gold bottle) 5W-30.

As i am currently unlicensed the car has seen less than 100km of light driving since.

Im wondering whether to keep this oil in the engine for the track day because it is quite fresh and i have 2 liters of it left, or to fill it up with fresh oil as some recommend??

do you guys flush the oil regardless of age after the track day too?

Louis

[ChargeR]

I would leave that oil in the car, as I doubt it would have deteriorated much in the 2 months since you put it in. If it was 5 or 6 months it would be a different story. I am not too sure of the effect that sitting unused has on the oil though, apart from a little condensation which will evaporate once you get the car up to temperature. Perhaps have a read on bobistheoilguy to be sure.

[cordz]

I would leave that oil in the car, as I doubt it would have deteriorated much in the 2 months since you put it in. If it was 5 or 6 months it would be a different story. I am not too sure of the effect that sitting unused has on the oil though, apart from a little condensation which will evaporate once you get the car up to temperature. Perhaps have a read on bobistheoilguy to be sure.

Had that feeling it should be okay, but yeh the car has been lightly driven short distances so oil has not been completely static.

You forgot to add if you flush or not? (the oil that is)

[DC2R]

I would leave that oil in the car, as I doubt it would have deteriorated much in the 2 months since you put it in. If it was 5 or 6 months it would be a different story.

What about if it was 5 or 6 months what would be the story then?

[MYDC5R]

Switching over to Royal purple from FEO Synthetic

[ahmiie]

thanks chargeR im stickin to FEO

[ChargeR]

Had that feeling it should be okay, but yeh the car has been lightly driven short distances so oil has not been completely static.

You forgot to add if you flush or not? (the oil that is)

I always stuck to a 5000km or two track days oil change interval, whichever came first (usually two track days). So I chose not to change the oil after a track day, and didn't ever have a problem but I didn't ever investigate it further by doing an oil analysis or similar. I did use a true synthetic oil though which is unlikely to break down no matter how hot I got it on track.

What about if it was 5 or 6 months what would be the story then?

6 months is approaching the recommended oil change interval (based on time) for my car so if the car was sitting for 6 months then I would not track on that oil because Honda have never steered me astray before. I have no other reasoning apart from that.

[cordz]

I did use a true synthetic oil though which is unlikely to break down no matter how hot I got it on track.

I take it castrol sport edge is not a full synthetic?

Taken from thier website: http://www.castroledge.co.nz/product/product_5w30.php

"CASTROL EDGE SPORT 5W-30

Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 is the essence for virtually all that’s modern and technically advanced. Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 is an advanced full synthetic high performance motor oil recommended for highly tuned four cylinder engines and the latest technology vehicles requiring a low viscosity oil."

Although i read before in this thread that some oils are not true full synthetics

[DakDak]

I have a couple noob questions. Is a 0W30 oil better than a 5W30 oil? From what I've gathered the first digit represents viscosity so wouldnt a 0 be better than a 5 in terms of thicker oils producing drag? And when we are thrashing our cars [legally of course] is it better to have a e.g 0W40 or a 0W30? Should I have more thicker oil to protect my engine or engine or should it be less viscous allowing more movement.

I've been using Motul as of now should I go with Mobil 1?