Tie rod help urgent!!!

[knobosaurus]

that weird clicking sound has happened to me before while turning. Whether its the same sound or not i will not know. Mine had that siund due to my coilovers had little rocks under the springs which made those sounds. And your tie rods start to bend up?? Could you be a bit more specific. Also with todds tie rods if you plan on running say -2.5 degree camber or more id suggest getting some todds tie rods and its also worth an investment even if you dont as theyre quite easy to sell. Also why are you running ep3 tie rod ends? Arent they smaller than the dc5 ones? As i know to run dc5 suspension on a ep3 you have to change to a dc5 tie rod end.

The ep3r tie rod ends are to suit my ep3r Mugen suspension. I'd like to run around -2.75 def around the front and I've got almost none on the front even with one camber bolt in. The tie rods aren't exactly bending but instead of being flat from the engine compartment to to front shock, they're pointing diagonally up since my car has been lowered. Does that make a but more sense?

[wongy]

it woulda been easier just to get coilovers and camber bolts =\ what wheels you running, why do u need -2.75? im only running -2.5 up front, but im thinking of running -3 cuz my front wheels are 9.5, but -2.5 they have very minimal poke already.

[knobosaurus]

it woulda been easier just to get coilovers and camber bolts =\ what wheels you running, why do u need -2.75? im only running -2.5 up front, but im thinking of running -3 cuz my front wheels are 9.5, but -2.5 they have very minimal poke already.

wongsy im running OEM rims (hopefully OEM 17s soon) Im after that setting to get more grip not so much visual effect. Would you think I can achieve that setting with just the bolts?

[wongy]

Are you planning on tracking it? Either way I just dont think you need so much camber for your stock wheels, even if your planning to get the 17" stockies, if u wanted more grip and handling u woulda bought coilovers instead and would have wider wheels with semi slicks on them, if your not gonna track and dont intend to get the agressive look from wheels, I dont see the need for so much camber and grip for daily, if u want lots of grip for daily, just buy semi slicks, its more than enough trust me, ive used them for daily before, and others have as well that are on this forum. Thats just my opinion

[Hau]

i agree with nathan on this. To run that much camber on a stock wheel looks a bit funny. If you want better grip than wider wheels. You dont have to go say 9inch but 8 or 8.5 is fine +35 will sit nicely on a dc5. and also there is no way you can get -2.75 with just two camber bolts. You were probably better off buying coilovers with camber tops and then camber bolts. Running heaps of camber on a daily/street driven car you get quite a bit of bump steer. Id suggest leaving the camber as is if youre gonna run stockies. So the camber you will run will be natural camber from the car being lowered. I would suggest not to run jdm dc5r wheels as it sits in the guards heaps as the jdm dc5r wheels have +55 offset due to the hub sitting out 10mm more than the audm model we have (dont quote me as im unsure about the hub thing) and are way to pricey for what they are. Id rather spend that little but extra for rpf1's in a better spec. but that is my personal opinion. But at the end of the day its your car do what you like as you'd be staring at it all day.

[knobosaurus]

Yep there are plans to track it but not full track car spec. Hmmm I originally wanted -2 but the bloke down at my alignment shop told me a single bolt could do -2.75. They didn't even get me up to that angle but ever since then I was thinking 2.75 not 2. I draw from past experiences of other users so I'll aim for -2 instead. That and some new tyres like ku31s will be my aim.

Back on topic, are tie rods which don't sit flat bad? I.e. diagonally since my car is lower and the shock still sits in the same position.

[Hau]

Yep there are plans to track it but not full track car spec. Hmmm I originally wanted -2 but the bloke down at my alignment shop told me a single bolt could do -2.75. They didn't even get me up to that angle but ever since then I was thinking 2.75 not 2. I draw from past experiences of other users so I'll aim for -2 instead. That and some new tyres like ku31s will be my aim.

Back on topic, are tie rods which don't sit flat bad? I.e. diagonally since my car is lower and the shock still sits in the same position.

I suggest run with natural camber or just one camber bolt.

And for your question. No they arennt bad mine are the same. The arent straight but are diagonal

[knobosaurus]

i agree with nathan on this. To run that much camber on a stock wheel looks a bit funny. If you want better grip than wider wheels. You dont have to go say 9inch but 8 or 8.5 is fine +35 will sit nicely on a dc5. and also there is no way you can get -2.75 with just two camber bolts. You were probably better off buying coilovers with camber tops and then camber bolts. Running heaps of camber on a daily/street driven car you get quite a bit of bump steer. Id suggest leaving the camber as is if youre gonna run stockies. So the camber you will run will be natural camber from the car being lowered. I would suggest not to run jdm dc5r wheels as it sits in the guards heaps as the jdm dc5r wheels have +55 offset due to the hub sitting out 10mm more than the audm model we have (dont quote me as im unsure about the hub thing) and are way to pricey for what they are. Id rather spend that little but extra for rpf1's in a better spec. but that is my personal opinion. But at the end of the day its your car do what you like as you'd be staring at it all day.

Didn't see this post. I see what you mean with wider wheels. I guess almost anything is an upgrade up from 6.5" stickies. And I wasn't going for OEM dc5r stockies but ep3r ones which have a +45 offset along with being 7" as far as im aware? My natural camber isn't very much since I've only dropped the car about half it's original height. So I kinda wanted a bit more. I've always felt I'll attract more attention with aftermarket wheels which led me to selecting OEM looking wheels. I'll stay on my current camber angle for now like you've suggested and see how I go later down the track.

[fr4n]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5358[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5359[/ATTACH]


At close to 0 camber this is how much poke there is. 4 cm worth. Is it possible for me to get away with pulled guards and -1.5 camber, instead of spending on tie rods?

That poke isn't even that bad man... -1.5 should bring the edge of the tire wall right inline with the fender. Perfection