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Installing headers on the EP3

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    Installing headers on the EP3

    Well PLM headers arrived, tried installing it and i can't get the darn thing on. There is so little room to work with, i unbolted the stock headers and was able to remove the downpipe and cat from the bottom, but there was no way i could remove the top part unless I removed the valve cover; so i took the cover off and was able to pull the stock one out, and even then it was hard to get it out.

    Then came installing the new headers, It just wont go in at all... putting it from the engine bay did not fit since there is so little room from the engine and the firewall and from the bottom it is blocked by the swaybar and the trailing arm, mechanic said they may need to drop the subframe... looked at a few diys but they're all on the DC5 which seem so easy as they were able to just slip it from the engine bay.

    Guys with ep3s how did you install headers on the car? Also anyone know any good exhaust shops around south or westside brisbane?

    #2
    Installing headers on the EP3

    The PLM header comes apart in three pieces, mine did anyway for the DC5. Just put it in piece by piece

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      #3
      Installing headers on the EP3

      I went to a professional exhaust shop for install because I had the same problem with mine. Dc5 plm install was easy but ep3 is just a different story altogether

      Originally posted by Oz Striker View Post
      The PLM header comes apart in three pieces, mine did anyway for the DC5. Just put it in piece by piece
      But then you can't attach the slip joints properly without giving it a good mallet wacker :/
      1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
      1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
      2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

      RHCP
      F1 Nut

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        #4
        I have done DIY install on the PLM headers and you definitely do not need to drop the subframe. What you will need to do is is unbolt the OEM 2-1 catalytic converter piece (down-pipe, how ever you want to call it) which is 2 nuts and 2 bolts. Then take off the downpipe. You will need to disconnect the front sway bar to make room to remove the oem header and put in the plm. It's not that bad of a diy, just a little wriggling around with the lack of space. But if you disassemble the OEM header in 2 pieces i guarantee it'll make life a lot easier. If you need more help just PM me or something.
        1999 Formula Red S2000 Blog

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          #5
          Haha I just re-read what you post, I'll help you out a bit more. You definitely need to remove the front sway bar. Just leave the sway bar connected on the endlinks and leave it hanging, it will make sufficient space for you to take out the header and put in the new PLM header from underneath the car.
          1999 Formula Red S2000 Blog

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            #6
            Would i need a wheel alignment after removing the front sway bar? Did you guys weld the slip joints? i heard they're prone to leaking and mine doesn't look very well sealed and its all the way in. Spent almost 8 hours trying to fit and remove the oem and new headers but failed so hard and now my neck hurts lol

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              #7
              Installing headers on the EP3

              Originally posted by BAU53 View Post
              Would i need a wheel alignment after removing the front sway bar? Did you guys weld the slip joints? i heard they're prone to leaking and mine doesn't look very well sealed and its all the way in. Spent almost 8 hours trying to fit and remove the oem and new headers but failed so hard and now my neck hurts lol
              I was going to weld but chose not to, Ceebs mainly. I didn't even use the sealant. I just got the pieces together and maletted them tight till they were fully on and put the bolts in (although some bolts have now come off so it's just sitting there)

              Just try whatever, if it leaks to much just weld later or something
              1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
              1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
              2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

              RHCP
              F1 Nut

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                #8
                Installing headers on the EP3

                No need for an alignment.

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                  #9
                  hahahah 8 hours trying to fit the header. i know this feel

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by dnapol View Post
                    I was going to weld but chose not to, Ceebs mainly. I didn't even use the sealant. I just got the pieces together and maletted them tight till they were fully on and put the bolts in (although some bolts have now come off so it's just sitting there)

                    Just try whatever, if it leaks to much just weld later or something
                    i put loctite on the bolts and tightened them heaps, dunno how much that'll help but some parts of the joints look like i could fit a corner of a paper into it; like there's that tiny gap, but its slipped in all the way. May as well get it welded and done with, i never wanna have to remove them again haha

                    Also do i get the cat welded inbetween the test pipe it came with or do they make their own piping to fit? Looks like they can cut of maybe 2cm on one side or 1cm on each end of the cat and cut the test pipe before in bends and weld it in.

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                      #11
                      they should chop the cat and weld it into the test pipe in the same position in order to keep the same dimensions so it's a perfect fit
                      1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
                      1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
                      2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

                      RHCP
                      F1 Nut

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                        #12
                        PLM headers on the ground will be a real PAIN.
                        BYP Racing & Developments
                        Built. Tuned. Driven
                        Want to go fast? Come see us! e: jimmy@bypracing.com ph: (02) 9757 4757

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                          #13
                          Installing headers on the EP3

                          Was driving to Winton today for drift day and my headers slipped apart (bolt came loose, fell off) which left my headers hanging and scraping in pieces. I DONt recommend you get the slip joints welded as the heat cycles will cause them to crack over time (extreme headers heat) however I reckon a tac weld to the nuts is a good idea so they don't ever fall loose like mine did. It's a big hassle!
                          1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
                          1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
                          2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

                          RHCP
                          F1 Nut

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                            #14
                            I've just read around alot of people welded their slip joints cause it started leaking slightly. The welds should hold up shouldn't it? since some parts of the collector tubes are welded on the plm already in the picture



                            I was thinking get the outside joints welded and the hard to reach spots just put some sort of exhaust gasket sealant on it.

                            I've tightened down the slipjoint bolts and used locktite on them, maybe might get a spring/lock washer for it.
                            Last edited by BAU53; 15-12-12, 11:47 PM.

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                              #15
                              finally got the headers in, but had an exhaust shop do it and they probs ripped me off and did not do an impressive job, but least its in. But there is a problem; im positive that it is leaking. When the engine is under load, like i'm giving gas but my rpm is too low to rev up or going up hill, there is a sputtering/hissing air sound and its driving me nuts. It's either coming from the donut gasket (used a diff one since apparently the plm gasket sucks) or at the slip joints. the shop refused to weld the joints saying i'll never be able to remove it.

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