Camber bolts & Camber Plates

[p33r]

^^lol he was a bit of a wankjob but is there any truth to what he is saying? And is there anything I can do to prevent them from slipping apart from torquing the hell out of them? Everytime I go back to a store to align it's off and I feel it tramlining a fair bit.

[plAythiNG]

Thats weird.. If one method was to slip, id imagine it be the plates

[tinkerbell]

And is there anything I can do to prevent them from slipping apart from torquing the hell out of them?

torquing the hell out of the is the best way to make them fail...

[ChargeR]

Regarding slippage of camber bolts there are a few points to remember:

• The torque specs for the whiteline camber bolts exceeds that for the OEM bolts
• The OEM bolts carry the loads from knuckle to strut by friction between the flat area on the flange and the flat areas of the strut bracket, this friction force is very large because the clamping force of the bolts is very high.
• The OEM bolts don't slip constantly because if they did the constant cyclic shear and bending loads would fatigue the bolt and it would fail
• So given this if the OEM bolt doesn't slip, the camber bolt should not slip if installed correctly.

I repeat, I have installed camber bolts following the manufacturers instructions a number of times, marked them with a pen, and they never slipped.

Secondly as I said and Alex confirmed, there is a lot of camber adjustability in the N+ even without additional bolts.

i was looking at these which have a 12mm shaft just not sure what the buddyclubs are

http://www.jdmhub.com/index.php?rout...67_25311_57137

Probably junk. A spherical bearing is a part requiring precision manufacture, if it is made to a poor standard it will have a very reduced life. If you're intent in getting top mounts, and it seems no-one can talk you out of it, then get something better than that.

Looking HERE N+ have a 12mm stud at the top.

[p33r]

torquing the hell out of the is the best way to make them fail...

Why is that? I've been told to tighten it as tight as possible.

Regarding slippage of camber bolts there are a few points to remember:

• The torque specs for the whiteline camber bolts exceeds that for the OEM bolts
• The OEM bolts carry the loads from knuckle to strut by friction between the flat area on the flange and the flat areas of the strut bracket, this friction force is very large because the clamping force of the bolts is very high.
• The OEM bolts don't slip constantly because if they did the constant cyclic shear and bending loads would fatigue the bolt and it would fail
• So given this if the OEM bolt doesn't slip, the camber bolt should not slip if installed correctly.

I repeat, I have installed camber bolts following the manufacturers instructions a number of times, marked them with a pen, and they never slipped.

Secondly as I said and Alex confirmed, there is a lot of camber adjustability in the N+ even without additional bolts.

I'm not on N+, I'm on eibach pro kit and koni yellows. So essentially you're saying that the aligner was correct in saying the reason for slippage is the 2nd set of camber bolts? As they should not be slipping if one set is installed correctly with a pair of oem bolts.

[tinkerbell]

Why is that? I've been told to tighten it as tight as possible.

not sure if you are being serious?

i am only a little guy, but if i do a bolt or nut up "as tight as possible" soemthing will break!

i usually read the instructions to know the specified torque to tighten bolts and nuts too...

basically - there is no bolt or nut on a car that needs to be 'as tight as possible'

I'm on eibach pro kit and koni yellows.

what brand camber bolts?

[p33r]

not sure if you are being serious?

i am only a little guy, but if i do a bolt or nut up "as tight as possible" soemthing will break!

i usually read the instructions to know the specified torque to tighten bolts and nuts too...

basically - there is no bolt or nut on a car that needs to be 'as tight as possible'



what brand camber bolts?

Yes I'm serious. Tighten it as hard as possible before getting to the point where something breaks obviously More specifically I was told torquing it to the manufacturer recommendations is not tight enough and it should be done a little tighter.

I'm on Ingalls.

[tinkerbell]

More specifically I was told torquing it to the manufacturer recommendations is not tight enough and it should be done a little tighter.

I'm on Ingalls.

ok, i looked up the instructions, and it states 125ft/lbs - so that IS prettyfuckingtight!

carry on...