K24 with K20 head or JDM K20?? Help please

[45SET]

Well if his K20 head is still intact from the blown engine, he can use that and go look for a K24 block. If there are any available ...

Hopefully my k20a2 head is sweet still, if it is I'll use it, Fingers crossed!!

It's not as easy as swapping the heads over, and there is a little bit of work involved.

The K24/20 became popular due to Honda owners in the States. In the early K-series day, the American's had access to the K20a2 (As found in their Acura RSX Type S), and they had access to the K24a2 (Out of an Acura TSX - NOTE: The US K24a2 is the same as the AUS K24a3). In the early K-Series days, the K20a2 head was far superior to the early K24a2 (Read: Aus K24a3) head, so it was a regular swap to let the K24 breath better in higher revs.

If you find a late model K24a3 (One from a 06-08 Accord Euro) the head design is much better then on an early model K24a3, or a K24a2 (Found in the Aus CRV). There is only slight gains in swapping the head over on these late model engines.

I would only really consider a K24/20 for the following reasons:
- You only have access to a K24 bottom end
- You can only buy a early K24a3, or a K24a2 (Even if you got a K24a2, you would want to basically only use it for the 2.4L block, as all the internals aren't suitable for high revs)

Otherwise I would save the time and hassle and get a late model K24a3 and do the following to the engine:
- 50’ VTC
- K20 oil pump – Along with hardware to have it fit
Everything else (ie Bolt ons) is up to you.

I’ve got a 08 K24a3 in my DC5R, and I’m running:
- Internally stock
- 50’ VTC
- Kpro – Tuned by Adrian at Toda Australia
- K20 Oil pump
- J’s racing baffled sump
- Skunk2 70mm Throttle body
- Bored and honed RBC intake manifold
- Toda headers
- 100 cell cat
- 3’ cat back

The car makes 156kw and a BUCKET load of torque (A few members on here have driven it, and can attest to this). It safely revs to 7,500RPM (Limiter set to 7,800RPM).

So... to answer your original question

+06K24a3 > K24/20 > JDM K20a

And that's based on the fact that a K24a3 can be dropped directly into a DC5R without even touching it, and it's more hassle free then the K24/20.

Just sayin’…

[etherealfall]

I refuse to touch robis car for this reason. The torque would destroy what views i had about my cars performance. :P

It must be so fun to drive robi haha

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[Jax-DC5R]

It's not as easy as swapping the heads over, and there is a little bit of work involved.

The K24/20 became popular due to Honda owners in the States. In the early K-series day, the American's had access to the K20a2 (As found in their Acura RSX Type S), and they had access to the K24a2 (Out of an Acura TSX - NOTE: The US K24a2 is the same as the AUS K24a3). In the early K-Series days, the K20a2 head was far superior to the early K24a2 (Read: Aus K24a3) head, so it was a regular swap to let the K24 breath better in higher revs.

If you find a late model K24a3 (One from a 06-08 Accord Euro) the head design is much better then on an early model K24a3, or a K24a2 (Found in the Aus CRV). There is only slight gains in swapping the head over on these late model engines.

I would only really consider a K24/20 for the following reasons:
- You only have access to a K24 bottom end
- You can only buy a early K24a3, or a K24a2 (Even if you got a K24a2, you would want to basically only use it for the 2.4L block, as all the internals aren't suitable for high revs)

Otherwise I would save the time and hassle and get a late model K24a3 and do the following to the engine:
- 50’ VTC
- K20 oil pump – Along with hardware to have it fit
Everything else (ie Bolt ons) is up to you.

I’ve got a 08 K24a3 in my DC5R, and I’m running:
- Internally stock
- 50’ VTC
- Kpro – Tuned by Adrian at Toda Australia
- K20 Oil pump
- J’s racing baffled sump
- Skunk2 70mm Throttle body
- Bored and honed RBC intake manifold
- Toda headers
- 100 cell cat
- 3’ cat back

The car makes 156kw and a BUCKET load of torque (A few members on here have driven it, and can attest to this). It safely revs to 7,500RPM (Limiter set to 7,800RPM).

So... to answer your original question

+06K24a3 > K24/20 > JDM K20a

And that's based on the fact that a K24a3 can be dropped directly into a DC5R without even touching it, and it's more hassle free then the K24/20.

Just sayin’…

Hmmm, straight k24 06-08 plus kpro mod away from there? Thanks for ur help!!

[45SET]

Hmmm, straight k24 06-08 plus kpro mod away from there? Thanks for ur help!!

If you want to cut down on time off the road, and labour costs, then yes, a 06+ K24 is the way to go. You'll need Kpro (Or any aftermarket ECU) before you even consider doing this. Everything else can be done at a later date, but the VTC and oil pump should be done before you put the motor in, as they are rather restrictive.

Only thing I can recomend you do is to research... and then research some more!

Use K20.org, and some US websites. Also feel free to read through my build thread, as I had a fairly big hand in the build and transplant of my K24. If you have any questions after reading through my thread, feel free to ask me... I tried to make it as useful as possible so as to make the entire process easy for anyone else attempting it.

Note: Before you start anything, you'll need a CRV drivers side engine mount.

[benson]

We've dyno figures and real facts (track data) to show that K20/K24> straight K24 in more than one way.

[45SET]

We've dyno figures and real facts (track data) to show that K20/K24> straight K24 in more than one way.

Can you please elaborate on this.

Such as the age of the engines, what mods were performed to both etc

For the "track date" argument, was anything else updated on the car at the same time as the new engine

I'm not trying to say "I'm right and you're wrong", but I want to see if we are comparing apples with apples. For all we know the straight K24 could have been a 03 K24 with 150k km on it with 20 track days under it's belt, and the K24/20 could have had 8k in parts thrown at it - As you can see, this is much like comparing a RB20 to an RB26. Same goes for the track data, ie K24 done on street tyres, K24/20 done with slicks.

I've come to my opinion due to bang-for-buck and ease of the build. I think I spent around $5-6k on EVERYTHING for my build (Engine, labour, parts, tune etc), and did it over the course of 3 weekends... which also included delays due to havign to replace the clutch midweek.

[rookie]

So the mounts for an older k24a2/3 are different for the mounts for a newer K24?

As you stated the newer K24 would drop straight in but you didnt mention whether or not the older K24 would drop in or not.

[45SET]

To my knowledge, the only difference to theft older and newer K24 was the head, oil cooler and a few other things (You van find it on Wiki). Externally, they are the same.

[DakDak]

Wow. Did not know that.

[ChargeR]

To my knowledge, the only difference to theft older and newer K24 was the head, oil cooler and a few other things (You van find it on Wiki). Externally, they are the same.

Pretty sure the head casting is the same on all the CL9 euro/tsx motors, any difference would be in the cams and valvetrain. Some bloke on K20A.org put the K20A/A2 head along with the K24A2 (Equivalent to our A3) on a flow bench and the K20 was markedly better, such that even with aggressive porting the 24 head barely flowed as well.

Also can someone actually confirm that any the aussie K24A3s didn't come with an oil cooler? The US market K24A2s definitely did not, but all the K24A3 motors I have seen and seen pictures of have the cooler irrespective of year.

Honestly if I had a K20 head I would not hesitate to use it, the long stroke K24 bottom end will benefit even more from the better flowing head than the 2 litre bottom end.

[benson]

To elaborate what i said, check out the dyno sheet below


To keep things in fairness, i put speed on the X-axis. We all race from 40-60kph so its a great comparison in that respect. As you can, both dyno plots has similar speeds

Both engine has 90% identical bolt-ons mods (only variant is the CAI design), 98RON and both tuned by me.

Don't get me wrong, the k24a3 engine make awesome power with bolt-ons, but with a K20 head, its far superior. We've done and recommend both set-ups. Its up to the consumer on how deep their pockets are.

One of our great success from an all OEM built K20/K24 set-up combining with the right bolt-ons and tuning


**Note - This car was tuned on Advan 050 235/40/18 and E85
Track data does back up its power output and some

[benson]

Here is another good comparison


Blue Line
K24a3
09 TSX piston
Blue print racing Stage 2 cam
K20 Oil pump
RBC + 70mm
PLM Header
3inch exhaust
E85 Tuned

Orange
K20/K24 Frank
RBC + 70mm
PLM Header
3inch exhaust
98RON

Even though the K24a3 did make more power than the OEM frank set-up, if the frank setup with E85, the results would be similar. Remember, the frank is OEM, while the K24a3 has cams, E85 and upgraded pistons.

You can see the above result of a frank with upgraded pistons and E85 (177kws)

Ill let you guys make judgement of what set-up is better

[Jax-DC5R]

Here is another good comparison


Blue Line
K24a3
09 TSX piston
Blue print racing Stage 2 cam
K20 Oil pump
RBC + 70mm
PLM Header
3inch exhaust
E85 Tuned

Orange
K20/K24 Frank
RBC + 70mm
PLM Header
3inch exhaust
98RON

Even though the K24a3 did make more power than the OEM frank set-up, if the frank setup with E85, the results would be similar. Remember, the frank is OEM, while the K24a3 has cams, E85 and upgraded pistons.

You can see the above result of a frank with upgraded pistons and E85 (177kws)

Ill let you guys make judgement of what set-up is better

Thanks Benny

[45SET]

This is why I like this forum, people back up there claims.

Benson (And the rest of the BYP guys) are a great asset to this forum.

[Karl]

Question if you run a k24 bottom. can u use the gear box out of the k20. because woundn't the gears ratio be longer out of the euro and no lsd