Changing wheel studs - new wheel bearings required?

[ChargeR]

Interesting Tom. So theres a guy selling these over the internet, its a complete type s 5 stud conversion.... if I was to bolt off my hubs complete with my studs and wheel bearing sand simply bolt his hubs back on, this is going to ensure no damage to wheel bearings right?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/801/img0512k.jpg/

I'm not sure I understand. Yes you can definitely change the whole knuckle over to that other set. Then you will still have standard length studs though, I thought the whole purpose of this exercise was to get extended studs fitted?

[plAythiNG]

Thought you might pick up on that.

So I'm having an issue with a few of my H&R extended studs, its not screwing in easily, and I suspect the cause of this is when I had 350Z wheels on it once upon a time. So screwing on nuts is more of a case of me fighting to screw it on. Because I want i screwing in easily like it should be, I am wanting to replace the studs with brand new extended ARP ones front and rear. When you brought up the issue of purchasing new hubs to ensure theres no issues down the track. Then you suggested getting new hubs too, so there a guy selling not too far from me a full 5 stud conversion from a type s. So to claify, I can jsut simply bolt off my parts, bolt on his hubs that come compelte with untouched / unmodified bearings, and OEM studs also.. right?

[ChargeR]

Yes it will be a straight swap. Seems a lot of effort to go to just to get mint wheel studs though. Have you tried running a die over your studs to clean up the threads a bit?

[plAythiNG]

Ahh yes, I'l get my mechanic to run a die through on my next service then. I just feel that doesnt go on right like it used too, so am thinking if I change over the hubs, it be cheaper/quicker as opposed to getting new hubs/bearings and also ordering extended studs

[munkaii]

Run the die over it first Alex. If he has a tap too, check that your nuts are still well threaded.

Alex: As Tom mentioned, swapping over is simple. You'll need a wheel alignment too afterwards. Is there a need for extended lugs?

[tinkerbell]

Is there a need for extended lugs?

my front OEM studs sheered off after around 300 race laps of circuit racing...

i change my rims every track day, so they got a lot of torque cycling + loads of heat cycling...

i was able to install my DC2 studs without removing the bearing (but i am badass, so that explains that...)

[TOU93]

my front OEM studs sheered off after around 300 race laps of circuit racing...

i change my rims every track day, so they got a lot of torque cycling + loads of heat cycling...

i was able to install my DC2 studs without removing the bearing (but i am badass, so that explains that...)

My OEM dc2 studs only lasted about 40 laps at Queensland Raceway before 4(2 on each front hub) snapped off and i all ways use a torque wrench. I found the heat build up was so great it was heating up the wheels so much and as metal expands when it gets hot, it was stretching the studs. I was finding after every sprint some of the nuts were loose.

I have arp normal length ones now and not a single problem.

I must not be as badass as you as i had to take mine to a mechanic to do the fronts, i could do the rear myself.

[tinkerbell]

i did bodgy (BFH + nuts/washers) with spare ones i had laying around so i could drive, then did the ARP upgrade with hub off + new bearings...

[ChargeR]

my front OEM studs sheered off after around 300 race laps of circuit racing...

i change my rims every track day, so they got a lot of torque cycling + loads of heat cycling...

i was able to install my DC2 studs without removing the bearing (but i am badass, so that explains that...)

My OEM dc2 studs only lasted about 40 laps at Queensland Raceway before 4(2 on each front hub) snapped off and i all ways use a torque wrench. I found the heat build up was so great it was heating up the wheels so much and as metal expands when it gets hot, it was stretching the studs. I was finding after every sprint some of the nuts were loose.

I have arp normal length ones now and not a single problem.

I must not be as badass as you as i had to take mine to a mechanic to do the fronts, i could do the rear myself.

Did you guys torque your wheel nuts cold, and did you re-torque them hot between sessions?

[tinkerbell]

i never retorqued after running, only after trip to & from scruitineering...

never were loose after a session, always still tight at end of day...

[TOU93]

Did you guys torque your wheel nuts cold, and did you re-torque them hot between sessions?

With the oem studs i had to re-torque them between sessions as you could spin the nuts by hand after a session, I would leave them loose and wait for the wheels to cool down and torque them just before the next session.

The ARP don't need re-torquing.

I was using the same nuts on both studs.

[plAythiNG]

I think I will just grab ARP studs and change bearings one more time.