Modifications

[Daft_Man]

You're the one who bought Sean's DC5R?

[m0nty]

I agree on what monty and tom are saying but me being me I would also invest in cams since not alot of people do turbo here since it's cost so much. I would give up on tyres because if your stock tires are still good then you can always get new tyres later when your tread wears down or when you are ready to track your car. But Kpro would be the first thing I would try to buy.

Getting cams before I/H/E will leave the car stifled, like trying to run a marathon whilst breathing through a straw. After the ECU I would get the I/H/E to free up airflow then lob in some cams and valves suited to the level of street/track you're after.

[ChargeR]

Getting cams before I/H/E will leave the car stifled, like trying to run a marathon whilst breathing through a straw. After the ECU I would get the I/H/E to free up airflow then lob in some cams and valves suited to the level of street/track you're after.

I agree on what monty and tom are saying but me being me I would also invest in cams since not alot of people do turbo here since it's cost so much. I would give up on tyres because if your stock tires are still good then you can always get new tyres later when your tread wears down or when you are ready to track your car. But Kpro would be the first thing I would try to buy.

I am going to have to disagree with you here and agree with Monty . Tyres > All. That your existing tyres have life left in them doesn't mean that you shouldn't upgrade. Doing cams and the Kpro, intake, header and exhaust required to make the most of them is going to blow his budget if he uses decent parts.

If I had my time of modifying my car again and I was modifying it to be a nice capable track car to learn in whilst still being nice daily and somewhat aesthetically pleasing I think my mods would look something like this, my prices are based on the old exchange rate to make them look more impressive:

• High performance street tyres (RE01R, Z1 etc.) $1000
• Coilovers (Spring rates around 9kg/mm front and 15kg/mm rear, with camber tops, I would lower the car around 1.5" to avoid having to buy rear upper arms to adjust camber) $3000
• JDM 22mm rear sway bar $150
• Front brake pads and fluid (Project Mu LM500 and Motul RBF600) $210
• Gut the stock airbox, add a cold air feed, and an aftermarket filter $100
• Straight pipe exhaust for track (Custom or Buddy club Spec II) $700

Optional: Light 17" non-staggered wheels with mega width and offset (RPF1 or similar) $1400

Unfortunately this list of stuff will blow the budget with the exchange rate as it is now, but if you find some of the things locally it could be achievable. It would probably also be wise to substitute K-Pro instead of the exhaust, but I put the exhaust in there because I like my cars loud . Coilovers could be fully custom with Koni race dampers, custom threaded sleeves, Swift springs, Mugen lower brackets and Noltec or similar front upper mounts.

[vippy84]

Get:
Clutch + Lightened Flywheel = ~$1200 (Brand new such as Exedy - more street friendly compare to ORC)
Suspension = ~ $1000 (2nd hand) - over $2000 (Brand New)
Sway bars = ~ $350 (Front and rear)
Wheels + Tyres = ~ $2200
Brakepads = ~ $300 for good ones

I think DC5R have enough power for you to play around with. As long as your car is aggressive in the corners, it is faster than those cars with more power but shit handlings. In my opinion, those listed above would set you well in terms of looks and aggressiveness. Therefore you can exploit your car power.. Good luck..

[m0nty]

Get:
Clutch + Lightened Flywheel = ~$1200 (Brand new such as Exedy - more street friendly compare to ORC)
Suspension = ~ $1000 (2nd hand) - over $2000 (Brand New)
Sway bars = ~ $350 (Front and rear)
Wheels + Tyres = ~ $2200
Brakepads = ~ $300 for good ones

I think DC5R have enough power for you to play around with. As long as your car is aggressive in the corners, it is faster than those cars with more power but shit handlings. In my opinion, those listed above would set you well in terms of looks and aggressiveness. Therefore you can exploit your car power.. Good luck..

Which sway bars are you getting for $350? I just paid $1,500 for Swift stabilizers with our dodgy exchange rate. Whiteline do not count. I'd prefer to roll on JDM OEM sways.

[m0nty]

I am going to have to disagree with you here and agree with Monty . Tyres > All. That your existing tyres have life left in them doesn't mean that you shouldn't upgrade. Doing cams and the Kpro, intake, header and exhaust required to make the most of them is going to blow his budget if he uses decent parts.

If I had my time of modifying my car again and I was modifying it to be a nice capable track car to learn in whilst still being nice daily and somewhat aesthetically pleasing I think my mods would look something like this, my prices are based on the old exchange rate to make them look more impressive:

• High performance street tyres (RE01R, Z1 etc.) $1000
• Coilovers (Spring rates around 9kg/mm front and 15kg/mm rear, with camber tops, I would lower the car around 1.5" to avoid having to buy rear upper arms to adjust camber) $3000
• JDM 22mm rear sway bar $150
• Front brake pads and fluid (Project Mu LM500 and Motul RBF600) $210
• Gut the stock airbox, add a cold air feed, and an aftermarket filter $100
• Straight pipe exhaust for track (Custom or Buddy club Spec II) $700

Optional: Light 17" non-staggered wheels with mega width and offset (RPF1 or similar) $1400

Unfortunately this list of stuff will blow the budget with the exchange rate as it is now, but if you find some of the things locally it could be achievable. It would probably also be wise to substitute K-Pro instead of the exhaust, but I put the exhaust in there because I like my cars loud . Coilovers could be fully custom with Koni race dampers, custom threaded sleeves, Swift springs, Mugen lower brackets and Noltec or similar front upper mounts.

By disagreeing with me you pretty much agreed with me. You just had more ghetto fab parts.

I would NOT get cams so early in the piece. Without the correct mods wrapped around them you don't see enough gains to justify it.

You and I aren't so different guy. You're just more emo.

[45SET]

Which sway bars are you getting for $350? I just paid $1,500 for Swift stabilizers with our dodgy exchange rate. Whiteline do not count. I'd prefer to roll on JDM OEM sways.

What is wrong with Whiteline swaybars out of interest?

[DrTran]

It's kind of all personal preferance also. I would just get kpro and a nice set of coilovers first. then see how much money you have left to work with and then go from there. I fully built my motor I had on the side while getting all the other stuff done. But take your time and make sure what you get is what you want.

[m0nty]

What is wrong with Whiteline swaybars out of interest?

They fit poorly. I have see bushes crack after very little use and they can creak and make noises over time. The JDM rear and EP3 front for people with aftermarket headers are much better options.

[ChargeR]

By disagreeing with me you pretty much agreed with me. You just had more ghetto fab parts.

You and I aren't so different guy. You're just more emo.

I wasn't disagreeing with you I was disagreeing with DrTran, sorry if my post wasn't clear .

[45SET]

They fit poorly. I have see bushes crack after very little use and they can creak and make noises over time. The JDM rear and EP3 front for people with aftermarket headers are much better options.

Interesting... I'll have to check mine for cracking. But haven't had any noises since installation.

[vippy84]

Interesting... I'll have to check mine for cracking. But haven't had any noises since installation.

my front sway bar is whiteline, yet to hear anything.. but seems to fit it perfectly..
will check it then..

[DC5R]

i use whiteline front & rear for 2 years already....no noises & cracking at all......

[Didz]

They fit poorly. I have see bushes crack after very little use and they can creak and make noises over time. The JDM rear and EP3 front for people with aftermarket headers are much better options.

First ive read something like this. Is it possible that you had a faulty set or that the fitment wasnt carried out correctly?

[mugsee]

It's kind of all personal preferance also.

I think this quote basically sums up the modification route that people take/should take. Until the OP tells us what he wants out of the car, its hard to pinpoint the best route for him to follow with his modifications.