DC2R wheel bearing replacement

[tinkerbell]

is it clicking or grinding?

clicking = CV joint

grinding = bearing



but please, feel free to second guess me and waste the time that i spend trying to help you by posting stuff that i know and have personally experienced...

[DC2R]

is it clicking or grinding?

clicking = CV joint

grinding = bearing



but please, feel free to second guess me and waste the time that i spend trying to help you by posting stuff that i know and have personally experienced...

Fuck man, no one here is trying to second guess you. We all know your a guru when it comes to hondas.. Some of us are more inquisitive then others and question more.

We all want the best for our hondas and be able to ask the best questions regarding this.

Its a learning curve for everyone and if you knowledge helps out the forum no matter how many questions are asked then surely it can't be a bad thing.

You seem way to narky with newbs and their probs, not that 00dc2 is a newb.

Lighten up man..

[munkaii]

CVs generally are on their way out when you get a distinct clunking noise on turning I believe?

Wheel/hub bearing failure usually sounds like a woo--wooing sound constantly. When the bearing becomes progressively worse, you'll get the grinding sound as the two ring surfaces come into contact with one another when all the balls have fallen out. If this is the case, I wouldn't recommend you drive at all.

A question to you tinkerbell:

If bearings are starting to show signs of failure, is there anything other than audible noise to diagnose it? I've seen people try to rotate hubs and they determine whether the bearing is good or not based on the smoothless of rotation (no skips) and resistance to rotation (some resistance is good, free spinning hub bearing = bad).

Just another CITR guy here trying to further his understanding

[hello]

CVs generally are on their way out when you get a distinct clunking noise on turning I believe?

Wheel/hub bearing failure usually sounds like a woo--wooing sound constantly. When the bearing becomes progressively worse, you'll get the grinding sound as the two ring surfaces come into contact with one another when all the balls have fallen out. If this is the case, I wouldn't recommend you drive at all.

A question to you tinkerbell:

If bearings are starting to show signs of failure, is there anything other than audible noise to diagnose it? I've seen people try to rotate hubs and they determine whether the bearing is good or not based on the smoothless of rotation (no skips) and resistance to rotation (some resistance is good, free spinning hub bearing = bad).

Just another CITR guy here trying to further his understanding

jack it up, hold the wheel/tire and rock/wobble it vertically. if it's wobbly, or not firm in place then you know it's going.
edit: if you think about it, wheels are attached to car by wheel studs in the hub and wheel bearing is what connects that hub to knuckle. Can't rock/wobble it horizontally as it would move the tie rods.

if the bearing is out, and is as itself (not attached to hub) then i'm not sure how to troubleshoot.

[00dc2]

got quoted that his manual says 2.5 hrs of labour per side for my car.. ~$300 total.. that doesnt agree with what you said tinkerbell.. searching for another place to get another quote..

[munkaii]

jack it up, hold the wheel/tire and rock/wobble it vertically. if it's wobbly, or not firm in place then you know it's going.
edit: if you think about it, wheels are attached to car by wheel studs in the hub and wheel bearing is what connects that hub to knuckle. Can't rock/wobble it horizontally as it would move the tie rods.

if the bearing is out, and is as itself (not attached to hub) then i'm not sure how to troubleshoot.

Ah, so I did have the right idea. I should do it on the ground next time. Last time I tried the car was up on a hoist so the the hoist rocked a little bit, making it hard to determine whether there was play in the hub bearing.

[tinkerbell]

got quoted that his manual says 2.5 hrs of labour per side for my car.. ~$300 total..

if it is 2.5 + 2.5 = 5 hours,

for $300 total - that is really cheap if it includes bearings, which cost around 80 each...

[tinkerbell]

If bearings are starting to show signs of failure, is there anything other than audible noise to diagnose it?

as i previously mentioned above, red dust under the centrecap is a sign...

[munkaii]

I also have a question in relation to wheel bearings (DC5R), though it is all the same fundamentals anyway.

Sometimes when I am at full lock and rolling slowly, and other times when I am just rolling at around 50km/h, I hear a faint noise which sounds like a wooh-woohing noise (I suppose its close to the sound a wheel makes when the nuts aren't fixed on tight enough, but not as clunky).

I would have thought it would have been the bearing, but the occurence at full lock rolling slowly seems a bit weird to me.

Happens intermittently and I had the car up and checked for play and it seems fine so I'm puzzled. Could it be signs that the bearing is slowly going? Or could it possibly be the CV shaft? The ones I have on the car at the moment are second hand units off another R.

[munkaii]

as i previously mentioned above, red dust under the centrecap is a sign...

Ah sorry, thanks.

I'll pop the centre cap off to have a look.

[00dc2]

$300 per side incl part

[K.C.]

that is still quite reasonable. my boss sometimes give a special condition with his quotes just in case if any of the ball joints/CV joint spline is stubborn, it will cost more for the trouble.

we had a CV joint stucked in the knuckle, pulled drive shaft + knuckle assembly out and it wont even budge under the press. in the end we just sprayed shit load of penetrant and leave it overnight under the press (with some load), came back next day, pumped to almost max load and finally seperated them.

[00dc2]

my bearing wore down the drive hub, was loose on it.. needed a new hub.. but all's good now.. so nice having the car back to 100%