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JDM K20A + gearbox or a whole JDM DC5R halfcut?

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    JDM K20A + gearbox or a whole JDM DC5R halfcut?

    Just wondering, what do you guys reckon is a fair price for a quality JDM K20A + gearbox or even a whole JDM DC5R halfcut? I'm seriously considering a conversion now that I've decided to keep my DC5R for a little longer.

    #2
    Originally posted by dfdc2r View Post
    Just wondering, what do you guys reckon is a fair price for a quality JDM K20A + gearbox or even a whole JDM DC5R halfcut? I'm seriously considering a conversion now that I've decided to keep my DC5R for a little longer.
    Is it worth getting jdm motor just for a bit more power? Instead of buying a jdm motor why not build a frankenstein k20/k24?
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      #3
      Originally posted by dfdc2r View Post
      Just wondering, what do you guys reckon is a fair price for a quality JDM K20A + gearbox or even a whole JDM DC5R halfcut? I'm seriously considering a conversion now that I've decided to keep my DC5R for a little longer.
      they usually go up to 6k!!

      http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-INT...#ht_500wt_1204

      that is bloody cheap^ but its got high ks..

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        #4
        Look on ebay canada (www.ebay.ca) they have jdm k20a's for just over 5k delivered
        Have a read of my build thread

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          #5
          Originally posted by Hau View Post
          Is it worth getting jdm motor just for a bit more power? Instead of buying a jdm motor why not build a frankenstein k20/k24?
          My current motor has 270,000km+ on it, although its running fine at the moment I don't expect it to last much longer and rather than spending money on modifying that engine I'm considering putting in a JDM K20A instead.

          Originally posted by amee-reb View Post
          they usually go up to 6k!!

          http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-INT...#ht_500wt_1204

          that is bloody cheap^ but its got high ks..
          I did see that one, I do like the price but you a right the KM's are a bit high. Not sure if it's had a good life either, could have been driven pretty hard back in japan.

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            #6
            Originally posted by dfdc2r View Post

            I did see that one, I do like the price but you a right the KM's are a bit high. Not sure if it's had a good life either, could have been driven pretty hard back in japan.
            yea i get what you mean, only reason its attractive is because you get the dash with it (plus jdm cluster) which you can part out for a bit.. but as a suggestion why not go k24? its actually cheaper..

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              #7
              P plater + engine swap = illegal. Vicroads/cops won't know the difference if I put a JDM K20A in it

              Also a noob question, how different are the JDM K20A found in the EP3R and DC5R in terms of mounts, wiring and other bits? Would it require much work to put an EP3R engine in my DC5R?
              Last edited by dfdc2r; 08-04-13, 11:31 PM.

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                #8
                I can tell you tie rod ends are different on ep3 in comparison to dc5. :P
                Lisa is a nut. She has a rubber butt. Everytime she turns around it goes putt putt.

                CW DC5R Build

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                  #9
                  the actual engine it self is the same. so both ep3 and dc5 use same mounts. in terms of wiring however im not sure.. i dont think it will be different though. But to answer your question no, no work is required. Alot of people do k20a swaps with engines out of a ep3..

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                    #10
                    Changing to a KDM K20A is a big expense for little gain, and the motor won't run correctly on the Australian ECU. If you swap the Japanese ECU you'll lose immobiliser functionality. The wiring and fitment of the long motors is identical though, ie. you can do a straight swap and everything will bolt up and plug in. How long until you are off your Ps? It's a much better idea to persist with your current motor until then and if you desperately want to change it at that point put a K24 bottom end in.

                    If you're not going to keep the car for a long time though, why bother, there's no reason to think your current motor won't last for quite some time yet as long as you maintain it and drive it properly and fitting another motor will not gain you much resale value in comparison to how much it will cost. Have you done a compression and leakdown test on your current motor?

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                      #11
                      Unfortunately I'm on my P's for another 3+ years. Haven't done a compression test on the motor yet but I'll get around to doing it this week, I'll be sure to share the results. The current motor still goes very well for it's age, but now that I have decided that I want to keep it for another 3 years, I would like to start making progress in improving the performance of the car. The way I see it is, if I start spending bucks on this motor and it happens to die out on me, I'm gonna be left short on funds with a buggered motor with lots of mods on it. Swapping to a newer motor will mean a fresh engine which will be ready for some mods, I'll also be able to sell off the older engine while its still running to someone who wants a cheap K20A2 for parts or a conversion/rebuild.

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                        #12
                        Just wait till your motor dies
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                          #13
                          remember, your driving a honda youll be amazed how long it will last if its taken care of..

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                            #14
                            An update, did a compression test and here are the results:

                            Cylinder 1 - 190psi
                            Cylinder 2 - 190psi
                            Cylinder 3 - 185psi
                            Cylinder 4 - 185psi

                            Not sure if these are good numbers. Also, when testing the cylinders 3 and 4 the battery started to get a little weak, which probably explains the slightly lower numbers. Any advice on the engine's condition based on these numbers?

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                              #15
                              Those compression figures are fine. That's really healthy and as long as the variance isn't greater than 28 psi, you're good. Minimum was about 128 psi for a k20a2
                              Lisa is a nut. She has a rubber butt. Everytime she turns around it goes putt putt.

                              CW DC5R Build

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