Hasport Drivers Side Mount

[munkaii]

Mmm Kevin wouldn't the front and rear mounts be under compressive loads all the time, except the compression zone would obviously be opposite f/r?

I honestly think both are important, a solid front mount can only be good as it takes load from the rear one. I know a lot of k swap cars only have 3 total but they generally have the highest durometer inserts.

Hey Steve,

I'd agree that it would be under compressive load for most of the time due to the weight of the motor. If by compression zone you're referring to f/r being more or less in compression that'd make sense.

I've seen some motors in the workshop with cracked front and rear mounts and you'd be suprised how much the engine rocks when you load it. It makes me think that despite the weight forces acting on the mount, significant torque can easily tear OEM rubber mounts. Having said that, the mounts fail from fatigue.

I think both mounts are important. I think I'd do a rear mount before the front one though (rear mount taking significantly more load during acceleration) and the front mount on lift-off).

[stevan]

I say this neglecting self weight of the motor, when the engine rocks under load back toward the driver for example the rear mounts bottom half will be under compression whilst conversely the front will experience this at the too half. Fatigue failure would obviously result from a high power engine due to high cycles of compression deformation, but, the front mount being solid would contribute restraint to the engine rocking back and prevent those large fatigue causing deflections?

[munkaii]

I say this neglecting self weight of the motor, when the engine rocks under load back toward the driver for example the rear mounts bottom half will be under compression whilst conversely the front will experience this at the too half. Fatigue failure would obviously result from a high power engine due to high cycles of compression deformation, but, the front mount being solid would contribute restraint to the engine rocking back and prevent those large fatigue causing deflections?

Would there be subsequent tension load acting on remaining half? Say if the motor was to rock back under acceleration, you'd have the front half of the front mount in tension and the back half of the front mount in compression (or bottom/top) depending on how the loads are transferred to the mounts.

Solid mounts back and front would be the best solution. I don't know if I'd rely on a solid front mount only is probably what I'm getting at.

An interesting discussion!

[stevan]

Would there be subsequent tension load acting on remaining half? Say if the motor was to rock back under acceleration, you'd have the front half of the front mount in tension and the back half of the front mount in compression (or bottom/top) depending on how the loads are transferred to the mounts.

Solid mounts back and front would be the best solution. I don't know if I'd rely on a solid front mount only is probably what I'm getting at.

An interesting discussion!

This is where it's a bit interesting, I don't think there would be significant tension because the inserts are pressed in and not restrained to the mount.

I'd imagine the insert would just comply in the "tension" zone to conform with the deformation from the compression from the motor rocking, without developing significant tension.

I agree with what you are saying though, you would always want the rear mount first but having the other would help with shifting feel especially in high rev downshifts. I want a front mount now haha

[stevan]

If it looks dodgey dude, maybe contact innovative.
They do offer a lifetime warranty?

Def will do this Carl, car feels a little hesitant response wise lately in shifting so the insert may be suspect.

[Stephen_AUS]

Well normally front mount you would get something like Avid or Innovative as I believe Hasport do no make front mounts. I have herd of a mount from the UK called Vibra Technics. Have a look at them, I just discovered about them just recently and they look really good.

I have had cracked front and rear mounts and it does rock alot when going hard. It would engine hop and you would just get heaps of hopping when your flooring it. In my opinion, I think most of the stress goes to the rear mount. Only time when your front mount would crack is when that rear one goes. Once that rear one goes, everything else starts going. Don't take my word for this but do think about it, just adding my piece of advice.

[p33r]

Good discussion. Didn't realise hasport don't make a front, prob will go for innovative 60a or 75a up front then, what u guys recommend? Hate any sort of engine play esp from first to second and downshifting.

Only thing stopping me ATM is I'm dreading the install. My innovative tranny mount by itself took me literally over an entire day to install. Think my frame might be a bit off because it still doesn't sit perfect. I heard its extremely difficult to install the front without dropping the subframe, and I don't want to waste any more cash on alignments (I've gotten like 3 in the past month)

Some more discussion on front mounts here
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=788800

[munkaii]

Support the motor with a hydraulic jack or a scissor jack. It will significantly reduce the load on the engine mount, thus making it easier to uninstall and install.

[p33r]

Yea I would do that, I don't think it's possible to even install it without supporting the engine. But in the case of my driver side mount I honestly tried everything but I think my engine is just slightly misaligned (possible accident from previous owner?). Either way the sides went in a while ago (not before threading a bolt). It just kinda had to be forced in.

But I'm worried about wiggle room for taking out and installing the front mount, which I heard its very difficult to do without dropping subframe.

[Stephen_AUS]

Yea I would do that, I don't think it's possible to even install it without supporting the engine. But in the case of my driver side mount I honestly tried everything but I think my engine is just slightly misaligned (possible accident from previous owner?). Either way the sides went in a while ago (not before threading a bolt). It just kinda had to be forced in.

But I'm worried about wiggle room for taking out and installing the front mount, which I heard its very difficult to do without dropping subframe.

As I want to put it out there again. There is no need to drop the subframe otherwise you will need it realigned again or unless u have rigid collars which aligns right in. I think. I've done a few of these engine mount changes myself and had no issues and all I did was support the engine with a jack and out
And in with the new one. Please also try to explain how you are trying to install these mounts. You could be installing them the wrong way as I can't really see how you can thread a bolt on driver side anyways.

[p33r]

As I want to put it out there again. There is no need to drop the subframe otherwise you will need it realigned again or unless u have rigid collars which aligns right in. I think. I've done a few of these engine mount changes myself and had no issues and all I did was support the engine with a jack and out
And in with the new one. Please also try to explain how you are trying to install these mounts. You could be installing them the wrong way as I can't really see how you can thread a bolt on driver side anyways.

Well I pretty much tried everything, including moving the engine up and down with a jack, lining the middle bolt up last, and loosening all the other mounts to allow for some more leeway. The damn thing would not line up. I was always only able to have 2 out of 3 bolts line up at one time. Tried to force one of the bolts in and threaded it. Eventually I just ended up buying a new bolt and drilling one of the innovative mount holes a little wider.

Regardless, that was all done a while ago so no worries And I know you don't HAVE to drop the subframe (I didn't have to with all my rear and side mount installs) but I just heard with the front it's very difficult to install without doing so.

[ChargeR]

Good discussion. Didn't realise hasport don't make a front, prob will go for innovative 60a or 75a up front then, what u guys recommend? Hate any sort of engine play esp from first to second and downshifting.

Only thing stopping me ATM is I'm dreading the install. My innovative tranny mount by itself took me literally over an entire day to install. Think my frame might be a bit off because it still doesn't sit perfect. I heard its extremely difficult to install the front without dropping the subframe, and I don't want to waste any more cash on alignments (I've gotten like 3 in the past month)

Some more discussion on front mounts here
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=788800

Dnapol and I had the same issue with his Innovative transmission side mount, we ended up slotting the holes a little bit, but it still took us over an hour for just that one mount. Innovative have made some changes to the design and probably the manufacturer of their mounts, because the newer ones are different to my old set and the fitment on my set was perfect.

[MYDC5R]

The front mount on my DC5, took us (Me n a mate) a little under or over 30minutes.
Drivers side, took roughly the same...
Transmission mount, took over an hour, seems like everyone had this problem as of late.
It just wasnt lining up correctly, whether it was cause we didn't have the engine supported properly i don't know but we fiddled and fiddled for a good while..
It'll go in just need be persistent!

Drivers and Front, is the easiest IMO.

[Stephen_AUS]

This is a very interesting discussion here ... I just cant see how the driver side mount was not aligning with the holes. In my time of changing mounts,

Front - 30mins
Back - 1hr
Driver - 30mins
Passenger - 1hr

And I can also say that driver and front are the easiest and faster to swap.

[MYDC5R]

Drivers side was easy so was front..
Passenger was a night mare..