Hasport Drivers Side Mount

[MYDC5R]

Ummm just pulled the old one out,
Not stress mark or crack on the main parts of the rubbers but there is some minor wear in it (Between the edging and centre)
Were going to put the new one in, pulled the drivers mount out and re-do it but...
If it's still knocking then were confused...
Any ideas?

[MYDC5R]

Spent $220 on a new mount that wasn't needed but oh well, doesn't matter.
Sorted it out.
Front engine mount was fine.
Turned out to be the coilover perch? I think thats what it's called, the big bolt in the centre of the strut tower was loose, tightened it up and no more knocking....
Couldn't believe it was such an easy fix..
O well one mount to go but i'll leave that to the mechanic when i take the car in next week..

End result
Check coilovers first!
Then buy as needed

[vippy84]

pretty common problem.
Just make sure check this from time to time. I experienced the same

Spent $220 on a new mount that wasn't needed but oh well, doesn't matter.
Sorted it out.
Front engine mount was fine.
Turned out to be the coilover perch? I think thats what it's called, the big bolt in the centre of the strut tower was loose, tightened it up and no more knocking....
Couldn't believe it was such an easy fix..
O well one mount to go but i'll leave that to the mechanic when i take the car in next week..

End result
Check coilovers first!
Then buy as needed

[Stephen_AUS]

Coilover perch is common problem to come loose and does make knocking noises ... but the perches is the thing that holds and adjusts the spring load and also locks the cylinder to the bracket. But i think what you are talking about is a nut that can be tightened on the coilover itself from the strut tower ? And I think that bolt is what holds the upper mount in place ? Correct me if im wrong ....

[MYDC5R]

^^ I think your on the right track in understanding what I mean as I suck with sussy stuff with the proper terms. But yup, I think over time it's become loose as vippy said also.

[stevan]

hey sorry if its irrelevant but with the first mount at the front is it100% neccessary Carl to drop the subframe of could you install it without doing so?

[MYDC5R]

hey sorry if its irrelevant but with the first mount at the front is it100% neccessary Carl to drop the subframe of could you install it without doing so?

No, subframe doesn't needa come out.
45Set, it's very easy to uninstall if you have the right tools the front mount.
We had everything we needed.
Hardest thing is to get the mount out and back in but very straight forward stevan

[stevan]

Ah ok, when I inspect my rear mount next week if there is signs of deformation I will get innovative to send out another insert and look into putting one in the front to take some of the load.

[Stephen_AUS]

^ definitely no need to drop subframe, otherwise it will need aligning again unless u have rigid collars. Just need some hammering in and your fine man. Front mount was easy to do, its just not much room to swing a spanner around, I ended up cutting myself on something sharp.

[gunpoons]

i didn't have trouble with any of them hey,
after reading a heap of diy's i was expecting the worse, but they all just slipped out and with a little jack adjusment, back in,
from memory the front was the easiest of the lot
had 10X more trouble swapping out the sussy

[stevan]

Awesome if my rear mount looks a bit dodgy next week I'll order a front 60a mount to take some load from the rear mount.

[MYDC5R]

If it looks dodgey dude, maybe contact innovative.
They do offer a lifetime warranty?

[p33r]

Bit OT, but how important do you guys think the front mount is a DC5S? I've heard people say it's the most important, and others say it doesn't matter which is why most mount packages come without it.

I'm not making much power (just I/H/E) but I just really want to reduce any engine movement esp when shifting. Would the front help a lot? On Innovatives with stock front mount atm, thinking of grabbing a Hasport front.

[munkaii]

I think the rubber/polyurethane mounts act better when in compression? So I'd think the rear mount is more important. The tension on the rubber front mount under hard launch is what causes it to crack easily I think. A good solid rear mount will limit engine tilt-back on hard shifting. A front mount will help keep the motor steady.

A good front mount + a weak rear mount is a lot worse than a good rear mount and a decent front mount.

What do others think?

[stevan]

Mmm Kevin wouldn't the front and rear mounts be under compressive loads all the time, except the compression zone would obviously be opposite f/r?

I honestly think both are important, a solid front mount can only be good as it takes load from the rear one. I know a lot of k swap cars only have 3 total but they generally have the highest durometer inserts.