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People's opinion about running 5-10mm spacers?

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    #16
    For the purpose of technical discussion, can you expand on the over-torquing idea tinkerbell?

    Would it have to do with the additional normal stress being placed on studs already experiencing stress concentration from the threads?

    Originally posted by tinkerbell View Post
    agree with you, but

    or maybe - who has (over)torqued your wheel studs previously?

    brand new ARP > old OEM
    Wakefield: EG B18CR - R888 - 1.09.9
    Eastern Creek: DC5R - RE001/ER300 - 2.00.8
    Winton: DC5R - RE001 - 1.45.9

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      #17
      Originally posted by munkaii View Post
      For the purpose of technical discussion, can you expand on the over-torquing idea tinkerbell?
      sure, i'll try...

      when i snapped off two front wheel studs at a Marulan day, i did some research on this. i found that my wheel studs snapped off due to:

      1. the repeated torquing and un torquing of my wheel nuts at track days as i always took a second set of wheels

      2. the heat cycling caused by massively high brake temperatures experienced whilst circuit racing

      these things combined meant my wheel studs were becoming weaker every time they were 'used'

      now,

      most people's cars will never experience such stress, but the importance of these factors can be related to to some extent...

      here are a few articles regarding the issue:

      http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=107

      http://www.boltscience.com/pages/failure4.htm

      http://www.dmbruss.com/zFullTimeLife...gNutTorque.htm


      so teh problems are: over torquing (maybe just 'overtightening') wheel nuts will stress & stretch the studs themselves,

      plus over tightening potentially distorts the brake disc or hub, which will cause warped discs and vibrational problems...


      so -
      1. make sure the nuts and studs threads are CLEAN
      2. use a criss cross pattern,
      3. tighten in multiple steps in stages,
      4. bump and hit and spin the wheel as you stage it on, so that the two faces of the brake disc and inside of the heel are flat (when fitting new discs, make sure you have a clean/flat/unrusted hub face!)
      5. always get nuts as tight as possible in the air,
      6. never lower a car that has loose wheel nuts
      7. once as tight as possible in the air, lower it gently! don't slam it down
      8. use a torque wrench to tighten your nuts to 80-85ft/lbs, in stages in a criss cross pattern
      9. check them after the first drive, dont add torque, just check the torque



      torque wrench note: try to replicate the 80 ft/lb feel with your breaker bar so you know what 80ft/lbs 'feels like'

      or buy a second torque wrench to only be used on wheel studs...

      (and from now on you will cringe any time a grease monkey goes near your car with a air gun...)
      ... retired/

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        #18
        hmm okay thanks for that tinkerbell. and for everyone else thanks aswell. i was thinking of maybe getting 15mm bolt on h&r for rear? i dont track or anything so the stress on the lugs wont be as bad. i just hope i dont die as daKdaK said haha

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          #19
          should be fine as long as u torque them specs and use the right length studs.

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