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An Easier Way To Do DC5R JDM Brembo Conversion

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    An Easier Way To Do DC5R JDM Brembo Conversion



    If you thought JDM Brembo conversion required the whole DC5R driveline, you are sadly mistaken!
    It didn't make sense to me why people had to change the entire knuckle, LCA, driveshafts etc. to do this. Then I heard that the problem was simply that the Brembo calipers centre line was some 7.5mm further out than ADM DC5/EP3/FN2/AP1 calipers. If that was all, how hard can it be? I sourced some DC5R Brembos for a decent price, and bolted it up. The standard brake lines and caliper bolts fitted with no hassle at all! and surely enough the ADM DC5/EP3/FN2 rotors were sitting too far inside by 7.5mm. At first I fabricated some 7.5mm spacers and that fitted fine before I realised that S2000 rotors have exactly 7.5mm less offset than ADM DC5/EP3/FN2 rotors.

    So out I go to source some cheap S2000 rotors. When they came I trial fitted them on some spare DC5 knuckles and woohoo perfect fit, then I bolted it them up to my FN2, another perfect fit! The only downside to this install is you need quite an agressive offset wheel to clear the Brembo Caliper, I'm using 18*7.5 +30 and 17*8 +38 wheels to clear the caliper.

    As for how they feel? to be honest they on day to day basis, they feel like OEM ahahaha. The Brake pad change made all the difference. On the track its different though, brake pads dont fade as easily and pedal feel is more responsive under braking, but it's still mostly feels like OEM calipers!
    Last edited by lukits01; 29-11-08, 12:39 PM.

    #2
    quality thread with qualty information.

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      #3
      good info!
      "Death before dishonor!"

      TheTeamIkon.com

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        #4
        magnificent
        sigpicCurrent holder of the Win folder.

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          #5
          Originally posted by lukits01 View Post


          If you thought JDM Brembo conversion required the whole DC5R driveline, you are sadly mistaken!
          It didn't make sense to me why people had to change the entire knuckle, LCA, driveshafts etc. to do this. Then I heard that the problem was simply that the Brembo calipers centre line was some 7.5mm further out than ADM DC5/EP3/FN2/AP1 calipers. If that was all, how hard can it be? I sourced some DC5R Brembos for a decent price, and bolted it up. The standard brake lines and caliper bolts fitted with no hassle at all! and surely enough the ADM DC5/EP3/FN2 rotors were sitting too far inside by 7.5mm. At first I fabricated some 7.5mm spacers and that fitted fine before I realised that S2000 rotors have exactly 7.5mm less offset than ADM DC5/EP3/FN2 rotors. So out I go to source some cheap S2000 rotors. When they came I trial fitted them on some spare DC5 knuckles and woohoo perfect fit, then I bolted it them up to my FN2, another perfect fit! The only downside to this install is you need quite an agressive offset wheel to clear the Brembo Caliper, I'm using 18*7.5 +30 and 17*8 +38 wheels to clear the caliper.

          As for how they feel? to be honest they on day to day basis, they feel like OEM ahahaha. The Brake pad change made all the difference. On the track its different though, brake pads dont fade as easily and pedal feel is more responsive under braking, but it's still mostly feels like OEM calipers!
          Good info....but.....let me answer ur questions

          LCA is alloy compare to steel....they are lighter and stronger.....

          By changing the knuckle you get another 15mm each side and that help with handling....

          You need JDM drive shaft coz ur offset and wheel base is longer....

          The reason to change to brembo is provide more consistant brake power on track, it won't lock up as easy compare to stock and you have bigger brake pad which give you better brake power......street driving won't give you much different in regards to paddle feel, and if you are using stock pads and stock rotors.....they really feel similar....if you put some better pads and rotor....they are different.....trust me......Some member in this forum sit in my car on track and they can tell you how it feels......

          btw.....those brembos looks awesome on urs......congrads on ur smart installation.....
          Mugen Whore #2

          ヒール&トウのやりかた
          1)ブレーキを踏む
          2)クラッチを切る
          3)シフトダウンしなから、
            アクセルをぶかす
          4)クラッチをつなぐ
          :blah:
          インテ君と共に歩み続けて早1年・・・いろんな所へ出かけ楽しく過ごしてきましたが、事情により手放すこと となりました。(T0T)
          人生で初めて走る楽しさを教えてくれた「インテグラ TYPE R」・・・初めて走った時は何もかも衝撃的でした。今でも走る楽しさは変わらないですが。。。残念です。今 まで本当に感動をありがとう!

          Comment


            #6
            You only need JDM driveshaft if you do the whole knuckle/hub swap.

            For what he's done above with just spacing out the rotors he doesnt need it.

            The hub is essentially the same as original.


            Your method is good luk, many ppl in the US have done this for some time, however reason why people go for the whole swap, is because it is usually sold as a whole.

            It is not easy to get the calipers alone, and usually ppl who do sell the calipers alone, the amount equates to something similar to getting the whole set up.


            IMHO though, I think the AUDM hub/knuckle setup is better.
            Just change to JDM LCA and if you really want ( not that its needed) change to aftermarket calipers.

            Reason for this is because you can run more nicer looking agressive wheels ( e/g +20 etc ) unlike having the JDM brembo swap, even running +40 will be quite agressive and the wheels dont even look as nice ( lip, concaveness etc )



            "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
            Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by air23box View Post
              Good info....but.....let me answer ur questions

              LCA is alloy compare to steel....they are lighter and stronger.....

              By changing the knuckle you get another 15mm each side and that help with handling....

              You need JDM drive shaft coz ur offset and wheel base is longer....

              The reason to change to brembo is provide more consistant brake power on track, it won't lock up as easy compare to stock and you have bigger brake pad which give you better brake power......street driving won't give you much different in regards to paddle feel, and if you are using stock pads and stock rotors.....they really feel similar....if you put some better pads and rotor....they are different.....trust me......Some member in this forum sit in my car on track and they can tell you how it feels......

              btw.....those brembos looks awesome on urs......congrads on ur smart installation.....
              cheers bud, I thought you can change to JDM LCA without having to change the knuckle and hub? isn't that what the ADM DC5S have?

              I've seen a DC5R that have done the complete driveline swap the hubs are so much fatter. As chi has said, you can't run aggressive offset wheels with JDM hubs. I suppose its just 2 different ways to going about the problem of getting track width. Either get wider wheels with low offset or use JDM hubs that push the track wider. But OEM rims are like +60 offset, that's just annoying ahahah

              I was using stock pads for awhile, and they felt like my stock calipers on stock pads. Have since changed to EBC yellows and off course they feel much better. I was just saying that given that the different calipers have same pads, the pedal feel was similar until you push them to the limit.

              You find that the Brembo doesn't lock up as easily as the stock calipers? I would've thought it would be the opposite affect...

              Comment


                #8
                nice info.
                BYP Racing & Developments
                Built. Tuned. Driven
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                  #9
                  Out of curiosity Lukits.

                  Is the FN2R MBC 15/16 or 1 inch?

                  DC5R is 15/16 which i thought was kinda stupid since the dc2r is 1 inch.



                  "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
                  Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Chi View Post
                    Out of curiosity Lukits.

                    Is the FN2R MBC 15/16 or 1 inch?

                    DC5R is 15/16 which i thought was kinda stupid since the dc2r is 1 inch.
                    you're going to have to tell me what I have to measure.

                    I do have a spare JDM DC5R MBC been thinking if its worth installing
                    but the odd thing is FN2 rear caliper piston is smaller, so not sure what changing MBC will do to the brake balance.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      MBC wont affect the brake balance negatively.

                      Only when you change the Proportional valve then it might affect it in some way.

                      You dont have to measure anything, it shoudl usually be stamped on the metal part of the MBC to tell you the size.

                      JDM DC5R MBC is 15/16 too, I've gone through the whole hassle of sourcing the JDM brembo swap.

                      However I am unsure if the JDM DC5R face lift model has an upgraded MBC, which I have yet to get clarification for.

                      But at the moment how is your braking feel?



                      "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
                      Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."

                      Comment


                        #12
                        awesome dude, very good for not listening to every tom dick and harry on the forums and doing it yourself with some brains!

                        thummbbssuppp

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Chi View Post
                          MBC wont affect the brake balance negatively.

                          Only when you change the Proportional valve then it might affect it in some way.

                          You dont have to measure anything, it shoudl usually be stamped on the metal part of the MBC to tell you the size.

                          JDM DC5R MBC is 15/16 too, I've gone through the whole hassle of sourcing the JDM brembo swap.

                          However I am unsure if the JDM DC5R face lift model has an upgraded MBC, which I have yet to get clarification for.

                          But at the moment how is your braking feel?
                          if I can find this stamp I'll let you know, like I said braking feels like stock. The calipers came with the Brembo pads, rode on them for awhile got cooked in one track day! So replaced them with EBC yellows, much better pad.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Wasnt there a really good how to guide with diagrams from the clubrsx.com days that a US guy did for a JDM brembo conversion? I think he was the first to do it and he did the same, made a spacer.
                            Last edited by FunkyR; 28-11-08, 07:11 AM.
                            Team Misplaced CT9A Owner #002

                            EVO IX FOR SALE:
                            http://forum.clubitr.com.au/showthread.php?t=6115

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by FunkyR View Post
                              Wasnt there a really good how to guide with diagrams from the clubrsx.com days that a US guy did for a JDM brembo conversion? I think he was the first to do it and he did the same, made a spacer.
                              I think I've seen this diagram, the spacer approach needs extended studs which means you need to take off the knuckle and press out the hub as well as replacing the wheel bearing.

                              If you use S2000 Rotors, everything is bolt on, all you need is the caliper.

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