It's finished! Well, it's on the road :)

[N1Spec]

this car is sick!

im liking what youve done with it....

is that actually your extractors glowing??? lol

feeling abit nostalgic now

[WhiteDC2]

Thanks San, it was a good base to start from I kept the brakes! Yeah that's the extractors glowing - it was getting tuned on the dyno and the timing was too retarded, so the fuel was still burning as it left the exhaust ports. All good now.

I reckon it would be funny for you to ride in your old car again - I don't think you'd recognise it lol

[TeMp]

Sweet car. Love would to come to Syd one day and watch you and the top 3 battle it out.

Maybe we should organise a Melb CITR road trip to Syd!

[DC2RKID]

looks sexy as man

[DC:53:XX]

yes very nice indeed..

im looking to build my b18 atm.. still putting together bits and pieces.. was wondering if u could share some of the head work u got done?? and maby some of ur expences??

im looking to go for toda cams, valve springs, retainers.. wondering is it realy worth to go cp pistons and rods. and if the gains that much??

im looking for roughly 150kw atw..

[RichyR]

yes very nice indeed..

im looking to build my b18 atm.. still putting together bits and pieces.. was wondering if u could share some of the head work u got done?? and maby some of ur expences??

im looking to go for toda cams, valve springs, retainers.. wondering is it realy worth to go cp pistons and rods. and if the gains that much??

im looking for roughly 150kw atw..

Troy got a port polish head by Adrian @ Toda

You need alot more work to get 150kw atw mate

[DC:53:XX]

iv seen r's with stock internals go 130atw with just nice bolt ons.. i already have good headers, mugen twinloop, gruppe m.. thought id get an easy 140 - 145 atw with thoes plus my basic internals done + port n polish...

[RichyR]

iv seen r's with stock internals go 130atw with just nice bolt ons.. i already have good headers, mugen twinloop, gruppe m.. thought id get an easy 140 - 145 atw with thoes plus my basic internals done + port n polish...

If i remember correctly, the car you just bought still had the 5zigen headers so I would change that first because its not a good header if you're looking for that amount of power. Gruppem doesnt work as good as mugen on dc2r (opposite to the dc5)

You need to work out your budget for the build and then go from there? Maybe run it on the dyno and see how much power its getting atm as that engine been tracked a bit from the previous owners.

[tinkerbell]

thought id get an easy 140 - 145 atw with thoes plus my basic internals done + port n polish...

maybe an 'easy' 145 on the dyno that gives you 130 with bolt-ons...

but if that is your goal, then forged internals and headwork would work...

[WhiteDC2]

iv seen r's with stock internals go 130atw with just nice bolt ons.. i already have good headers, mugen twinloop, gruppe m.. thought id get an easy 140 - 145 atw with thoes plus my basic internals done + port n polish...

I wouldn't say 145fwkw from a B18 is "easy", or should I say, cheap. But it's definitely a tried and true path that's been done by many.

My setup varies a fair bit from the usual B18C "bolt on" build. My head is actually a B18C1 VTiR head running with a 95mm stroke bottom end (B20A crank) in a B18C block, using pistons from the Toda B16 Increased Capacity 1800 Kit and modified factory rods. Static compression is up around 13.5:1, it runs 0.5mm over sized valves, Toda C2 cams and adjustable gears and the head has been ported by Toda Racing Aust. It runs on E85, is very noisy and not the best motor for street use, so it may not be the best example.

Your goal depends on budget - you can go with your B18C bottom end or you can go for a B20B bottom end. BlackDC2, a former member here, had a great 150fwkw B18C7 package. There is a definite advantage in building the bottom end as you can increase compression and high rpm reliability. Below is a list of what you could start researching. I've included a couple of brands, but it's just a suggestion. All this stuff is highly dependant upon your budget and, utimately, the application of the motor. You may get more satisfaction from a mild turbo setup with decent pistons and rods over a full-house All-Motor setup if your using the car on street only. Both cost the same, but suit different applications. Or you could just stick with bolt-ons and mild cams.

Cost varies greatly on part selection, whether you buy new or 2nd hand and the overall application. Don't expect change from 10K for a tough All Motor B18C with new parts and all the ancillaries. But if you're not going to the track every month and have doubts whether cracking the motor open for an extra 20 - 30fwkw and enduro reliability, then spend your money elsewhere - like a house

What I'm trying to say is really do your research and have a goal and budget in mind before you lay down your hard-earned. The cost is bad enough when everything goes right and you're happy...

Bottom End

Pistons and rings - CP/Toda, 12-12.5:1 CR
Rods - Crower Maxi-lite (don't cheap out here)
Bearings - ACL/OEM
Crank - OEM micro-polished
Baffled sump - Weld in plate (track use)
Oil pump - Toda
Water pump - OEM (worth replacing)
Seal kit - OEM

Sleeving the block for this application is entirely up to you but not always necessary.

Machining - Ensure any machining of the block is done by a reputable machinist with dummy head in place. I've seen good blocks ruined by shitty machining.

Head

Mild port by someone who knows what they're doing
Valves - OEM
Valve springs - Toda/Port Flow/Buddy Club
Ti Retainers - Toda/Port Flow/Buddy Club
Valve guides
Cams - Toda C2, Buddy Club (Cam choice is hottly contested, do your research here)
Timing belt - Toda/OEM
Adj Cam Gears - Toda
VRS kit - OEM
Head Gasket - OEM
Head service

Some go for over sized valves, but probably not necessary. Use reputable machinist for the head etc.

I/H/E

Intake - Mugen/Injen
Header - Toda
Exhaust 2.5"
Catalyst - Hi-Flow

Ancillaries

Alternator belt
Power steering belt
Spark plugs - copper type for initial tuning etc, colder set for final tune
Fuel pump - Walbro/Bosch
Injectors - reconditioned RB26DETT, be sure to get some suitable plugs
ECU - Hondata/PowerFC
Oil cooler - Earls/Ebay (size dependant upon application)
PCV - ensure you have a decent PCV system
Upgraded radiator - lots of track use
Fluids
Tuning - most important to get right!

Adjustable fuel reg is a waste of money if you've got a decent fuel system.

[TODA AU]

awesome power!...

The funny thing is where it makes the power...
Peak power @ 8400rpm - torquie mo fo... Ha ha ha

[Ljubo (LJ)]

well done mate, prob one of the best in OZ

[k20eg]

fukin delicious!!

[almotor]

nice engine build haha