DC2R - Build Thread

[ewendc2r]

Firstly don't know if there is where it should go but:

Hi all,

As most of you know I have had my DC2R now for a couple of years (2.5) and I have scared off the performance bug for long enough.

I have started the process of turning this into what I hope is one of the quicker DC2R's in Australia (Both Circuit & Street), still road registerable and maintaining the raw throttle response that makes these cars so special (no turbo's here!).

Purchases:

Whiteline 24mm Sway Bar
Spoon Thermostat
Mugen Fan Switch
Cusco Underbody Bracing
Mugen Front Tower Bar
Mugen Rear Tower Bar
Carbing Pedal Set
J's Racing Engine Torque Damper
RT615 Semi Slicks
Toda Fightex DA Coilovers
Mugen Headers
Mugen Twin Loop Exhaust
J's Racing Intake
HKS Type S Oil Cooler
Spoon Baffled Sump
5Zigen Wheels Nuts

Met with Bullet Motorsports - Looking into a SC setup, potentially Rotrex at this stage however still keen on a Twin Screw for constant boost rather than linear delivery of Rotrex (Although still crank driven so throttle response should be retained vs turbo).

Other items on the to do list:

Braided Clutch Line
Braided Brake Lines
Radiator Upgrade (Koyo / Spoon / Mugen etc)
High Peformance Clutch
LSD Upgrade (Probably down the track - KAAZ 1.5 Way).
Surge Tank
Dry Sump Setup
Mugen SR1 Seats (Porn!) / Bride Low Max / Sparco Evo
Mugen Rear Wing (Ver 2) - Gotta have some bling.
Carbon Bonet
P1 Racing Front Air Dam / Splitter
Alumnimum Undertray Diffuser
Radiator Deflector (Ensure maximum airflow through radiator)
AP 4 Pots


Also given the street registerable part, I want it to be a REAL street car at this stage, so I bought some new splits Alpine Type X which have amazing sound output -- really happy.

So it begins -- Any input appreciated

[Elwood]

Keep us updated!

Although. I thought RT615's were actually street tyres?

[felixR]

Although. I thought RT615's were actually street tyres?

technically yep..

pics ewen pics!

[nam]

How do you like the RT615's?
I'm considering trying out those tyres next

[TODA AU]

Hi Ewen,
Just a quick note.
Don't fit the Spoon thermostat until after the car has been tuned.
It plays havoc with the cruise tuning on the dyno if the fan is on as the car will run too cold & move onto the cold start trims at light load with lots of airflow.
FWIW, when we use larger more efficient radiators than stock together with oil cooler.
On road cars we leave the standard thermostat in...

Cheers

Adrian

[ewendc2r]

See, learn something everyday.

Looks like I'll go with power fc because i don't trust hondata tuners up here.

Adrian -- Looks like I'll lose AC anyway to make decent room for SC setup, so no major concerns about upping the radiator core.. Essentially, even though I would like AC, i would rather a non-compromise setup

Thanks for the words

[G_Vtec]

Hi Ewen,

quick question about the whiteline rear sway bar. Is this fixed at 24mm or is it adjustable? Notice any difference once you installed it?

p.s. - you might wish to include front and rear camber arms setup as well

[SHIFTY]

what times are you doing on the circuit?

Sounds like alot of work and thought has been put in to this car..

[ewendc2r]

I ordered the wrong bloody one lol -- DC5 not DC2 hehe, so now I am looking for a 25mm cusco instead. They are both adjustable with 2-3 possible settings.

I won't be lowering the car enough to upset the geometry, so adjustable camber isn't a massive issue however I'll test it and if it requires them I will then purchase I also want to get aluminum control arms to reduce unsprung weight as much as possible --- Hopefully result in a very capable track car..

Hi Ewen,

quick question about the whiteline rear sway bar. Is this fixed at 24mm or is it adjustable? Notice any difference once you installed it?

p.s. - you might wish to include front and rear camber arms setup as well

[ewendc2r]

I only went to QR once with it and it was stock basically, did the clubman in 1:07.2 -- Have been holding off going back until I got these mods completed so i can really push the limits of the chassis

Thanks mate -- many hours lol .. not much sleeping.

what times are you doing on the circuit?

Sounds like alot of work and thought has been put in to this car..

[TAFKA TMB]

Those seats you are looking at are fixed back seats. In Victoria if I fit fixed back seats to my DC2 I have to re-register it as a 2 seater rather than a 4 seater.

Better check with your local authorities ……

[tinkerbell]

I won't be lowering the car enough to upset the geometry,

why wont you lower the car?

why do you think that Honda's stock camber settings will be appropriate for circuit racing?

however, i guess this could explain why you intend to just use street tyres though???

[ChargeR]

Sounds like a good build . Best of luck.

Purchases:

Whiteline 24mm Sway Bar
Spoon Thermostat
Mugen Fan Switch
Cusco Underbody Bracing
Mugen Front Tower Bar
Mugen Rear Tower Bar
Carbing Pedal Set
J's Racing Engine Torque Damper
RT615 Semi Slicks
Toda Fightex DA Coilovers
Mugen Headers
Mugen Twin Loop Exhaust
J's Racing Intake
HKS Type S Oil Cooler
Spoon Baffled Sump
5Zigen Wheels Nuts

Other items on the to do list:

Braided Clutch Line
Braided Brake Lines
Radiator Upgrade (Koyo / Spoon / Mugen etc)
High Peformance Clutch
LSD Upgrade (Probably down the track - KAAZ 1.5 Way).
Surge Tank
Dry Sump Setup
Mugen SR1 Seats (Porn!) / Bride Low Max / Sparco Evo
Mugen Rear Wing (Ver 2) - Gotta have some bling.
Carbon Bonet
P1 Racing Front Air Dam / Splitter
Alumnimum Undertray Diffuser
Radiator Deflector (Ensure maximum airflow through radiator)
AP 4 Pots

I have bolded a few things that I think warrant more thought. Not trying to be critical of your choices, but the reasons people choose particular parts interests me .

Why a different fan switch and thermostat when you will be using an upgraded radiator, as the radiator will help keep temps down at speed and the fan switch and thermostat will do absolutely nothing on the track. If the car is getting a little long in the tooth I think a full cooling system service and a new water pump would be a spending the money better .

The J's engine torque damper is not a good product in my opinion, and unless the design for dc2 is much better than the dc5 one you are better off going with upgraded mounts, and if you want to keep the car streetable probably not something too extreme, which will be fine unless you are drag racing.

[Elwood]

Expensive list of stuff going into this.

Updates!

[szymonsta]

interesting tyre choice. have you considered re55s, a048s, dz03gs or r888's? i beleive they might be better suited to making it 'one of the quickest track/street itr's in aus'.
also, what tyre and wheel size will you be using?