My DC5R

[45SET]

But i mean as in...swapping from a 2L engine to a 2.4L engine. Whats the process to get it registered ?

In QLD, taking it to an mechanical engineer (Or a mechanic that can issue a "Mod Plate"), and having them check over everything and mod plate it.

A few of the items are still a little loose, or not 100%, so I'll fix them up before I get the mod plate. One such item is the wiring loom.

[gunpoons]

ruffly how much do the mech engineers charge for an inspection/certifcate up there?
i know its not cheap round here

[stevan]

lol, engineers have to go to uni for the best part of 4-5 years, i wouldn't expect them to charge cheaply unless they know you or you help them build a fence or something hhaha

[DakDak]

Nice progress Robi! Its Daryl btw

[45SET]

ruffly how much do the mech engineers charge for an inspection/certifcate up there?
i know its not cheap round here

I've heard of people getting engine transplants mod plated for $100... I'll get back to you once it's done.

lol, engineers have to go to uni for the best part of 4-5 years, i wouldn't expect them to charge cheaply unless they know you or you help them build a fence or something hhaha

The good ones get through quicker Jokes!

Nice progress Robi! Its Daryl btw

HEY DARYL! How is your car coming along? Get the RBC in yet?

[45SET]

*Final wrap up*

So, I thought I would do a final wrap up from the build, basically a summary of the build, things to look out for if you are planning this yourself, and at the end of the day, if it’s worth while.

Mod List
- ’08 K24a3
- Hondata intake manifold gasket
- Driverside CRV Engine mount
- RBC Intake Manifold – Ported and honed to 70mm
- Karcepts 70mm throttle body adapter
- Skunk2 70mm throttle body
- 50’ VTC
- K20a oil pump – this needs to be modified to fit. You’ll also need all the chain parts from the K20a that connect to the crank
- NKG Spark plugs – Copper (Not sure on part number)
- Toda headers
- 200 cel cat
- 3’ stainless steal cat back (One baffle before the rear axel, MASSIVE rear muffler)

Build Process
- Engine
As this thread has said all along, I have NEVER done any mechanical work (Fitting coilovers was the most advanced I had done before this build). My friends that helped had done engine rebuilds on B-Series, but never worked on a K-Series. To fit the K20 oil pump and VTC, a fair bit of the engine needed to be pulled apart. Subsequently, to pull the head off also involves a fair bit of work (This was due to the threaded spark plug). The entire build was performed using TSX and RSX manuals which can be found for free on the internet (I have these if anyone would like me to email them). Working on a K-Series is reasonably easy.

- Engine removal and install
Removing the K20 from the DC5 was also fairly easy, with 50% follow your nose, the other 50% using manuals. We had access to a hoist for this entire build, so it made it A LOT easier. Personally, if you were going to do this with axel stands and jacks, I wouldn’t bother. Removing and replacing the sub-frame is a rather tedious job, and I can’t imagine doing this with minimal room.

- Wiring
The wiring loom from the DC5 is used for the K24 swap. No cutting or re-wiring is required. There are two cables that are not used. One is for VTC (At the back of the engine), the other is for the radiator (At the front). Removing and reinstalling was actually the quickest part of the entire build.

- Fitment
The only issues I’ve found here have been the aircon line, under bonnet liner, and the header hanger that connects to the subframe.
The car still retains the aircon pulley, but the line has been removed (This runs over the top of the motor). I’ll either be getting custom lines made up, or using EP3 lines, which apparently run around the back of the motor
All under bonnet lining has been removed. We experienced issues with this fouling on the intake manifold (As the K24 sits some 13mm higher than the K20).
As the K24 sits higher, the hanger used for the headers can’t be used. This needs to be bent out of the way so it doesn’t foul.

- Miscellaneous
The entire water pump gallery, aircon, power steering and crank pulley’s have been transferred over from the K20 onto the K24. This means that I’m using the stock length serpentine belt (removing the hassle of measuring this up). You’ll need to run an aftermarket front sway bar, or else you’ll foul on the headers.
The coolant inlet for the K24 enters the engine on a different angle to the K20, so Mugen and Gruppe M intakes can’t be used. K-Tuned have got a replacement inlet gallery so that it enters on a similar angle as the K20, so you may be able to use Mugen or Gruppe M with this.
RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH! I cannot stress that enough. With this build, the only problems we experienced were all unexpected (Threaded spark plug and clutch). We had all the other parts required before we started.
Parts are very important, and I would recommend to anyone doing this, to get as many parts as possible before you put the engine in the car, as it’s obviously a lot easier to work on an engine on an engine stand, then in a car.

Final summery
At the end of the day, I have had a fairly big hand in the build of the engine, and installation of it, so I am very proud of that. I can stand back from the car, or drive it, and know that it’s the way it is because I did it. I’ve actually had a fair few proud moments during this build. The first one was working on the engine when Jason and I fit the oil pump and VTC. Fitting the engine was another moment, and to install everything, and have it start first time with minimal issues was also great. But the proudest moment was when Adrian had finished tuning it, and I took the finished product for it’s for the first test drive. Adrian can attest to the size of the smile that was on my face the first time I planted it down the street. But the fact that everything works together, and the final outcome was better then everyone had expected!

I’m very happy with this build, I’m very happy with the car. I’m glad that I did this, because I can honestly say, a month or so before I started this, I was seriously thinking of selling the K24, and possibly the car.

I’d like to thank the following people
- Jason, Glen and Kurt – Jason for doing A LOT of research before the build, Glen for having the now how, and Kurt for use of his shed, tools and hoist.
- Jimmy and Benson (BYP) – For suppling me with the engine, MANY parts and lots of insight into the build. Thanks guys!
- Adrian (Toda) – Thank you very much for the tune, and thank you for taking the extra day out of your holiday to accommodate me, it is greatly appreciated!
- ClubITR – You guys have been great. It’s been a pleasure writing up the reviews for you after every day I worked on the car, and I’ll be more than happy to help anyone if they wish to perform this in the future with any questions.

Thanks again all

Robi

[air23box]

Great write up bro....thx for sharing.....~!

[Bodgy Racing Developments]

great work mate!

[felixR]

- ClubITR – You guys have been great. It’s been a pleasure writing up the reviews for you after every day I worked on the car, and I’ll be more than happy to help anyone if they wish to perform this in the future with any questions.

We love you too!

Man great write up!

[DakDak]

HEY DARYL! How is your car coming along? Get the RBC in yet?

You beat me too it!

My cars good man. You done a heap of progress on yours! Glad to see. Nice power figures too.

Ill be mirin your car hard until I finally get my parts in. Been delayed with 'unfortunate' stuff coming up.

[fatboyz39]

- Jimmy and Benson (BYP) – For suppling me with the engine, MANY parts and lots of insight into the build. Thanks guys!

Thanks for the mention Robi. Those 07/08 EURO motors tend to make more power over the 03-06 EURO engines. I guess paying extra coin for the late model engine is more then worth it. Was it auto or manual motor ?

We found the AUTO engines make slightly more power over the manual engines for some odd reason.

[Shakeel]

congrats mate!!

[45SET]

Thanks for the mention Robi. Those 07/08 EURO motors tend to make more power over the 03-06 EURO engines. I guess paying extra coin for the late model engine is more then worth it. Was it auto or manual motor ?

We found the AUTO engines make slightly more power over the manual engines for some odd reason.

Not a problem, none of this would have been possible without you guys.

As for if it was auto or manual, not sure, as it didn't come with a gearbox, and I'm not sure how to tell if it was manual or auto without the gearbox.

[45SET]

Some people have PM'd me about how the 3" exhaust sounds on the car.

I have uploaded some video's onto FB... but not sure how to link to here... or the ClubITR fansite...

Felix... can you give me a hand?

[felixR]

Some people have PM'd me about how the 3" exhaust sounds on the car.

I have uploaded some video's onto FB... but not sure how to link to here... or the ClubITR fansite...

Felix... can you give me a hand?

For the FB ClubITR page, click on Share.. and I think you'll then be able to choose the fan page.