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Originally posted by plAythiNG View Postnice, so the ohh shiii was a positive one!
Ok... I think it's time for another update... without pictures (Sorry guys, I was actually doing a fair bit today, so only had time for random FB updates )
Jason, Glen and Kurt did some work on the car on Friday night, while I was getting my groove on at my work Christmas party... great night... but that's a story for another time. Anyway, they fit the clutch and flywheel, fit the gearbox to the engine, mounted the engine to the chassis (left and right mounts only), and started to mount the sub frame, but it was 10:30 by this time, so called it a night.
We started today nice and early (8:30), and Jason and I got to fitting the sub frame. After much moving of trolly jacks and "It's lined up on my 2", "Oh that's great, my 2 are about 5cm off", we finally mounted the sub frame.
Only issue here was the header hanger. As the K24 head sits about 14mm higher then the K20, the hanger is basically useless, as they actually sit next to each other when the headers are fitted. We bent the hangers out of the way, so they don't foal.
Then we fit the Mugen exhaust back to the headers... sigh... they foal on the chassis I love this exhaust, and it was actually one of the first mods I bought 4 years ago. At the moment, at idle the exhaust rubs on the chassis. I'm getting a 3' stainless tomorrow made up, so unfortunately (for me), I no longer have any use for this exhaust
Once the sub frame was mounted, we bolted the front and rear engine mounts on, and the engine was bolted in... and it was only 11:30am! Next step was fitting the A/C and P/S back to the engine, and then fitting the serpentine time belt. If you remember from my previous post, we changed over ALL the pulley's from the K20 onto the K24, so as to avoid having to worry about getting the correct sized belt. The belt I'm running on my K24 is the OEM sized belt for a AUDM DC5R, and it fits perfectly.
Wiring was the next step. Now with the wiring, we have used the DC5R wiring loom. No cutting or changing of any sensors have been made. There are two sensors that aren't used. One is a VTC sensor on the back of the engine (I'll have to confirm what it's called), the other is radiator related, and is on the front of the engine. Only other issues is that there is a plug that plugs into the top of the gearbox and tells the ECU that the car is in reverse, and turned the reverse lights on... we needed to extent this (Wow... that was really long winded). Everything else just plugs in. We used the OEM K20 fuel rail and injectors. Also, we've "retro-fitted" a lot of lines (Air, fuel and coolant) from either the K20 and K24 to suit what jobs needed to be done.
The next issue we ran into was that the Mugen Airbox doesn't fit anymore So I'll be selling this soon too. At the moment I'm running a pod on the end of a pipe (Not a fan of it), but I need it for the tune tomorrow. My intention is to relocate the battery to the back of the engine against the firewall (Where the airbox use to sit), and run my air filter in the old location of the battery.
So, engine, sub frame and wiring were all fitted. So gearbox and engine oil were put into the car, and radiator coolant... then we started it...
AND IT STARTED FIRST TIME!!
We had K-manage plugged into the ECU, expecting it to be throwing error codes left right and centre... because as we have all learnt, when it's relating to a car, nothing ever goes right the first time. Anyway, it only threw one error, which was an "ETC High Voltage" error. This was making the car idle at about 3k RPM, and the temp gauge wasn't working. So we checked all the sensors around the radiator... nothing.
Before we could take it for a drive we also needed to fix some bonnet fitment issues. We had to bend one of the hoses on the RBC (This needs to be done no matter if you run a K20 or K24 in a DC5). We also removed the heat shield/sound deadening under the bonnet. We also called an "Air-con guy" (On a Sunday), and de-gassed the aircon... then cut off the air-con hose that runs over the top of the engine. Once I have my intake set up correctly, I'll be getting this all re-installed and re-routed, so it's all hidden.
Suspension, brakes, front bar etc were all re-fitted... and we took it for a drive... wow...
After the drive I gave Adrian (Toda) a call to tell him I'll be getting my tune tomorrow as the car is running, and told him about the above error. He said "Oh, that's the sensor on the gearbox side of the block, under the two cam angle sensors, it's either broken or not plugged in". Glen and Jason ran out to the car... boom... it wasn't plugged in, lol. Once it was plugged in, we turned the car back on. Using my previous tune from Adrian, for my K20, the car idles perfectly.
I have driven it in it's current state (K20 tune, crap intake, Toda headers, Mugen cat back) and to say it's a MASSIVE jump over the K20 is an understatement. Once I've got the 3' stainless on tomorrow, and a tune for the K24, I'm expecting to have even more of a change. Currently, only reving it out to about 5.5k, it just pulls like crazy. 3k RPM WOT in 4th gear is crazy! The engine just keeps pulling.
I'll post up an update tomorrow after the tune. Again, any questions, let me know.
Thanks
Robi
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Nice power curve .BYP Racing & Developments
Built. Tuned. Driven
Want to go fast? Come see us! e: jimmy@bypracing.com ph: (02) 9757 4757
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Originally posted by TOU93 View PostPfft you need moar power.
Originally posted by fatboyz39 View PostNice power curve .
Originally posted by Norm View PostWhat's the process in making this beast road legal?? Btw crazy power.
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