Jacky's EP3.

[mryangtastic]

Need to have a group photo jacky! NB represent [emoji14][emoji13]


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Hahaha. Yep. Should be organised some day.

153Kw is a good figure. Does it feel like it has more torque in the lower RPM ranges?

My clutch was diagnosed the same when I bought mine. Lasted 12 months, before it went! Left me stranded in the city!!
My advice would be to get it fixed before it leaves you stranded, plus tow costs etc...

Lower RPM, I actually don't. The higher RPM, I do.
For some reason, I was expecting more torque feeling. But I've come to the realisation that the car didn't grow a turbo overnight. 😂

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[mryangtastic]

Sunset had some colour, so I took a photo.
You guys seem pretty keen on the DC2R anyway.



Kenny's thinking of modifying it.

• J's Racing 60RS
• Side skirts
• Rear pods

[mryangtastic]

Clutch finally got replaced last week.

Dedy has always suggested the OEM replacement. Hit the shop early @ 7.30 and it was finished early afternoon.

Immediate thoughts.
Way lighter than before. Dedy said the previous clutch was something heavier.
The pressure of the pedal changes as you let more pedal out. I was extremely used to a single amount of pressure throughout pedal travel.
Biting point is lower too.
Overall much much nicer to drive.

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[Setanta]

Love your Ep3. P1s look good on the DC2R but you could get the same effect with factory JDM 15s painted grey rather than CW. If I can find a second set of 16s It's exactly what I want to do - grey for driving, whites for show

[mryangtastic]

Love your Ep3. P1s look good on the DC2R but you could get the same effect with factory JDM 15s painted grey rather than CW. If I can find a second set of 16s It's exactly what I want to do - grey for driving, whites for show

The JDM 16s look nice but subtle difference.

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[icebox]

The Ep3 has always had a lower engagement point, when i still had mine it was crazy how close to the floor the clutch would be for it to start engaging.

but it made driving other cars so much easier when i moved on, you should have maybe changed the flywheel as it would have made reving a lot better plus your clutch was already out so saving money at the same time.

[mryangtastic]

The Ep3 has always had a lower engagement point, when i still had mine it was crazy how close to the floor the clutch would be for it to start engaging.

but it made driving other cars so much easier when i moved on, you should have maybe changed the flywheel as it would have made reving a lot better plus your clutch was already out so saving money at the same time.

Seems like the most sensible time to do it.
Since the car is the facelift, it does have an OEM lightweight flywheel.
Definitely would have liked to experience the difference of an lighter flywheel though.

[ricciardi80]

Seems like the most sensible time to do it.
Since the car is the facelift, it does have an OEM lightweight flywheel.
Definitely would have liked to experience the difference of an lighter flywheel though.

I was going through the same thing when I changed my clutch.
I think the Exedy lightweight flywheel was 900grams lighter than stock. I'm sure there are lighter ones as well.
For my needs it wasnt worth the massive price tag. OEM is already quite light.

[mryangtastic]

Brought out the mighty VTECs for the Christmas weekend.

[mryangtastic]

The EK4 was sold last week. Easily the most fun on the streets out of the 3 VTECs.

Today I finally fit RDA dimpled and slotted to replace my glazed OEM rotors.


Rotor change successful.


I also scuffed the pads to make sure they weren't glazed. More of a precaution than anything.
I found that the NS400 had issues?

Crack between the meat and the pad... I'm no pro, but this doesn't look right.
I'm going to jump on Facebook and see if anyone's got a set of front pads tomorrow but I want to know what causes this...
Has anyone else had this? Was it glazed pads? Or was it a bad batch of NS400? These were purely street driven.

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[mryangtastic]

Update with the brake pad situation.
Found a used pair of HC800 from trackdays. 4mm meat left.
Found a used pair of OEMs previous to trackdays. 7mm meat left.

Got the OEMs in as all I was going to do was daily drive for now.
Now noticing a shuddering when I brake with moderate-high pressure.
Wasn't happening the first 4 days... or at least I didn't notice.

I have just taken the rotors off today, made sure that the hub to rotor surface are wirebrushed again.
Then I did the brake bed in procedure to try to figure out if it was uneven material transfer.
Shuddering still occurs.

I have a service scheduled this weekend so I'll check in with the Top One boys.
May be the OEM pads can't handle aftermarket rotors?

[mryangtastic]

Issue - Brake Squeal
Been a few months. Bought NS400 from JDMYard. Shuddering went away eventually.
Now noticed that there's a bit squeal from the front car moves without brakes applied.
Starting to notice that the rotors are getting glazed.
Scuffed them up last weekend and noise is still there.
Performance is fine. Just annoyed with the noise.
RDA rotors no good?

Other news - bumper cut
Got slightly bored with the car so I bought a spare rear bumper with the intention to do a bumper cut.
Cut the furry wheel lining so it doesn't look like a mud flap.




Other news - Race Division
A friend invited me out to a gathering for a new workshop for Race Division.
Early days so the premises is still a work in progress.
I took some photos with a recently acquired Sony A7.
http://imgur.com/a/BxDRV

Hondas




Other News - Kenny's DC2R
Kenny picked up a used Spoon b pipe + N1 tail.
The catback was cut to suit AUDM DC2R so it made it easy to bolt straight on for us.
His recent PLM header + cat was made to directly replace the stock components.
After a week of driving, we finalised it was too loud. And we bought both a Spoon silencer + a stock muffler to keep noise down.
I love it how the stock muffler will bolt straight on to the Spoon b pipe.
Stock muffler was too quiet for Kenny so the N1 + silencer went on.
Sounds nice and streetable, but wasn't a fan of the blllllrrrrr sound when the revs dropped (similar to my RM01A). May be that's the key to quiet exhausts.
Silencer was removed and we've done a full circle to come back to where we came from.
Will place it back in when Kenny starts suffering from deafness.

EDIT: Kenny also got a Koyorad for his car. It's the recently released one which is thinner, so it requires minimal trimming during installation by JDMYard.

[mryangtastic]

Not a happy day for Kenny's DC2R

Today we woke up to a DC2R with zero clutch pedal pressure.
Problems identified:

• Clutch slave cylinder flex
• Leaking clutch hard line
• Clutch slave cylinder bolts not tightening

I have a hunch that the leaking hardline would be a result of the flexing slave cylinder.
The 2 bolts on the slave cylinder seemed loose, so I made an attempt to tighten them but they wouldn't tighten even with finger pressure.
This indicates to me that either the bolts are too small or the thread in side the hole is ruined. Just to eliminate one of those options, does anyone know the spec of the OEM bolt?
So now we have a car out of action... And it is my brother's daily. What's the best thing to do to get this up and running ASAP?

[ken_twolves]

From memory.... the bolt size is 12mm, thread pitch M8 - 1.25. Not sure if these are high tensile bolts, best to probably get it from honda for exact fit.

Fluid squirting out of the bolt head on the hard line. Check if the hard line bolt is actually tighten properly into the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure to use a flared nut spanner to save you dramas from rounding the nut.

For easier access to the slave cylinder bolts, remove the radiator fan from the radiator

[mryangtastic]

From memory.... the bolt size is 12mm, thread pitch M8 - 1.25. Not sure if these are high tensile bolts, best to probably get it from honda for exact fit.

Fluid squirting out of the bolt head on the hard line. Check if the hard line bolt is actually tighten properly into the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure to use a flared nut spanner to save you dramas from rounding the nut.

For easier access to the slave cylinder bolts, remove the radiator fan from the radiator

Removed radiator fan to take off the slave cylinder.
The bolts that were already there were M8x1.25. The beginning of the thread in the hole was ruined.

Purchased a tap and die set and longer M8x1.25 bolts from Bunnings.
Extended the thread down the hole.

Use the longer bolts to secure the slave so it doesn't flex anymore.
Reattach the clutch line. (I didn't require a flared nut spanner)
Bleed the slave cylinder.

And we're good for now. We will order a new clutch line just in case. Go OEM or braided stainless steel?