help installing coilovers DC5

[plAythiNG]

guys I can't install coilovers... got the rrears done, not the front... im stuck on the part that's connected to the steering shaft..... it won't slide. help plz

[T-BaGGeR]

guys I can't install coilovers... got the rrears done, not the front... im stuck on the part that's connected to the steering shaft..... it won't slide. help plz

Are you talking about the tie end rod? thats connected to the shock arm?

[m0nty]

Have you disconnected the tie rods? The only attachment points for front struts are the three top bolts, two hub bolts and the tie rod. All should come off easily. The hub assembly will then be free floating BUT make sure it doesn't drop. You need to tie it up slightly to stop the driveshafts dropping out of the gearbox. It shouldn't provide you with any issues really.

Just please make sure you do a wheel alignment afterwards.

[plAythiNG]

yeh I can't get the tie rod bolt removed.. so tough, it won't budge

[tk38]

Some use a gear puller, which is easy.
Some will hit the side with a hammer to jiggle it loose. Hitting it from right under might work, but most places when installing macpherson strut style suspension don't do it that way. It apparently damages the tie rod or something.

[m0nty]

Spray some WD40 on it first. Make sure you remove the splitpin from the castle nut too. Should come off easy. They're not torqued that high from factory.

[tk38]

Yeh i forgot to mention WD40. That stuff is your best friend for almost any mechanical install.

[T-BaGGeR]

don't remove the castle nut, Just loosen it till the bottom of the thread. Make sure that the tie rod end is at 90 degrees to the shock arm and hit the castle nut upwards to get the rod end out of the shock arm.

If that doesn't work, get a breaker bar and wedge it on top of the shock arm and then below the tie rod. Lean downwards on the breaker bar and hit the shock arm close to the castle nut with a hammer. It should come off.

Just make sure you don't remove the castle nut completely. If you do, when the rod end seperates from the arm, you could strip the thread on the rod end and if you don't have anything supporting the the hub/rotor, the drive shaft might seperate from the tranny. I use something like a milk crate and put it under the rotor so it won't completely drop out.

[plAythiNG]

Thanks, will give it a second try 2moro! will update and pix also.

[Type S Tony]

The way i remove it is just loosen the nut & smack the knuckle thats holding the rod with a hammer, but you have to hit it hard Like a man, if it doesnt pop of after one hit you havent hit it hard enough & your not a man, do not loosen the nut and hit the actual tie rod as you can smack it out of whack, shouldnt have to use WD40 or anything, make sure to replace the split pin when done.

[plAythiNG]

yeah it was extremely tight... seirosuly it would not budge.... gonna get it professionally done at the front in addition to my camber n alignment adjustments next weekend..

[T-BaGGeR]

are you still having trouble just getting the nut off? or is it the tie end rod out of the shock arm?

[plAythiNG]

i've gotten the split pin off, followed by the bolt... so tis pretty much free standing.. but its on so tight, it wont budge.. i even used a tie rod end clamp to help push it out.. n that has resulted in the rod being bent n threaded. thats stuck in there that tight!

[m0nty]

I guess nowis the perfect time to order some inverted tie rod ends then. Did you do what T-Bagger said? The tie rod may need a whack with a hammer in the right spot but should never be so tight that it won't come out with a few knocks. Wind the nut downto the point where it's flush with the thread and whack it up to knock it out of the strut steering arm.

[plAythiNG]

wat are the benefits on using inverted tie rods?