Originally posted by daviee17
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◄◄◄◄ The Wheel Fitment Thread ►►►►
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Rolled guards, rear camber kit, inverted tie rod ends and shortened tie rods. Tie rod stuff isn't essential for the fitment though. With my current alignment I'm close to 0 degrees camber on all corners as the tyre place I went to decided it would help reduce scrubbing by "straightening it up". Peh there's so much poke right now haha.Originally posted by Perry View PostLooking good Symphorced, what mods you needed to fit it, roll guards, front camber bolts amd rear camber kit??Last edited by Symphorced; 21-10-11, 07:07 AM.
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Originally posted by plAythiNG View PostIsthat first pic showing ur wheel turned?? Its showing alot of tyre for 235/40....
lol turned? no... haha u can see like both sides of the lip?
taking it consideration its x 9" +20,
thats whyArguing online is like competing in the Special Olympics.. Even if you win, you're still retarded.
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Hey, I'm running the 15" 96 - 98 JDM DC2R Wheels on my VTI-R with 30mm conversion adapters (lol) The wheels are +50 offset, and the adapters are 30mm, so thats +20 offset? They look fine on the rear, but they scrub because the inner lip is not rolled, and they look like I'm rockin 4x4 status at the front. So I'm putting them back in the garage and purchasing a new set of wheels, would anything need to be done for either:
15 x 6.5 +35
or
16 x 7 +38
Cars a DC2, if I didn't mention it already, thanks yo.
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Oh, I was referring to the first pic, the second pic, u can see both sides of the lips, just must be the angle then.Originally posted by daviee17 View Postlol turned? no... haha u can see like both sides of the lip?
taking it consideration its x 9" +20,
thats why
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Looking at getting 17x9 +22 all around. Not sure how I want to run my tires. Ultimately I want to run;
1F: 255/40/17
R: 235/40/17.
What I'm scared about with this setup is on full lock, the 255's up front may scrub part of the chassis? On my current setup 17x9.5 +25, I had 255/40/17 and on full lock, i've scrubbed away part of the sound deadening on the chassis, hence why I went down to a 235/45 tyre.
If I compare the 9.5 +25 to 9 +22 wheel, the offset will be 3mm further out and roughly several more mm less for the inner clearance. You guys (TOM!) reckon i'll have any dramas running a 255/40 tyre?
1aEDIT: btw, I also have a 15mm spacer up front, I can also run to give more clearance between inner tyre and chassis if need be)
If this isn't possible, I have two more options,
2F&R: 235/45/17. This is my current setup atm
Third option;
3F: 235/45/17
R: 235/40/17
What are the consequences of running a slightly thinner profile in the rear?
The reason why I am sticking to only 255/40 or 235/45 sizes up front is these are the only sizes I can run due to my ride height+steepness of my driveway.
CheersLast edited by plAythiNG; 21-10-11, 10:24 PM.
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Someone? :P haha, sorry for double re-post or whatever, just over my car looking like a monster truck! haha.Originally posted by MACDOG View PostHey, I'm running the 15" 96 - 98 JDM DC2R Wheels on my VTI-R with 30mm conversion adapters (lol) The wheels are +50 offset, and the adapters are 30mm, so thats +20 offset? They look fine on the rear, but they scrub because the inner lip is not rolled, and they look like I'm rockin 4x4 status at the front. So I'm putting them back in the garage and purchasing a new set of wheels, would anything need to be done for either:
15 x 6.5 +35
or
16 x 7 +38
Cars a DC2, if I didn't mention it already, thanks yo.
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Originally posted by plAythiNG View PostLooking at getting 17x9 +22 all around. Not sure how I want to run my tires. Ultimately I want to run;
1F: 255/40/17
R: 235/40/17.
What I'm scared about with this setup is on full lock, the 255's up front may scrub part of the chassis? On my current setup 17x9.5 +25, I had 255/40/17 and on full lock, i've scrubbed away part of the sound deadening on the chassis, hence why I went down to a 235/45 tyre.
If I compare the 9.5 +25 to 9 +22 wheel, the offset will be 3mm further out and roughly several more mm less for the inner clearance. You guys (TOM!) reckon i'll have any dramas running a 255/40 tyre?
1aEDIT: btw, I also have a 15mm spacer up front, I can also run to give more clearance between inner tyre and chassis if need be)
If this isn't possible, I have two more options,
2F&R: 235/45/17. This is my current setup atm
Third option;
3F: 235/45/17
R: 235/40/17
What are the consequences of running a slightly thinner profile in the rear?
The reason why I am sticking to only 255/40 or 235/45 sizes up front is these are the only sizes I can run due to my ride height+steepness of my driveway.
CheersYeah Matt is right, I have never been able to turn full lock without rubbing even with stock 16x6.5s. This is probably mostly due to ride height and significant negative camber though. So every single one of my wheel setups has rubbed on the chassis, and when I added positive caster they started rubbing a lot on the back of the wheel well, and that is where I had problems and destroyed a tyre because there is sharp metal back there.Originally posted by M@lew View PostI don't think Tom can full lock on his 255 tyres and when he did spin out he sliced it a bit or scrubbed it really bad from memory.
I'd use a 255 and deal with it, non-staggered tyres on staggered wheels is silly.
With a 195/55 on the 15" and a 205/45 on the 16" I think both should be fine without any guard modifications, depending on ride height and alignment. The only reason you might have problems is if the car is too low and the tyres bottom out on the inside of the guard, or if your car is low and you reduce the negative camber at the rear, which might cause contact with the rear guard lip.Originally posted by MACDOG View PostSomeone? :P haha, sorry for double re-post or whatever, just over my car looking like a monster truck! haha.
Looks good mate, what was the alignment guy thinking 'straightening up' the camber, it is going to look amazing with a little more low and some camber!Originally posted by Symphorced View PostWe can! We just look very Mexican lol.
17x9 +20 (215/45/17) - still needs more camber and trying to get more low out of the rears.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b3...0-18162109.jpg
Progressive OEM style springs are wider than a coilover spring, but if you look at how the stock wheel sits against the stock strut, the diameter of the spring is irrelevant, because the spring is above the tyre. So stock style struts should have at least as much clearance as a coilover, probably more, because the stock shock is smaller diameter than most coilovers. So I wouldn't worry about inner clearance, you shouldn't have a problem.Originally posted by p33r View PostI have considered grabbing 245/40 but would clearance be difficult if i wanted to keep my front guards stock and use camber bolts (im dropped on shocks/springs)? I know stevan has 235/40 and doesn't have much clearance between and wheel and strut, and apparently progressive springs are a lot wider than coilover springs.
any idea what i'd need to do to fit 245/40 on 1.5 finger gap?
No-one can tell you exactly what you will need unless they have an identical setup, but I am going to go out on a limb here and say if you fit a 245/40, two camber bolts per side to obtain as close to -2 camber as you can at the front, roll the rear guards, then they should fit no problem. You might get rubbing on the guard liner clips at the front, and obviously a 235/40 will be better.
The difference between a 245/40 and 235/45 in terms of guard clearance will probably not be that much, the larger diameter of the 235/45 will be more inclined to result in rubbing compared to the extra 10mm of width on the 245.
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^^looks very mean Symphorced!
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